Make is louder or make it lighter?

[Stephen@lethal]

Weight savings are def important, and are usually pretty cost effective for the results you get. It just depends on how light you are really wanting to go, but most do a combo of both. Hit me up over at Lethalperformance.com to see what we can do for you!

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[bluebeastsrt]

Weight savings are def important, and are usually pretty cost effective for the results you get. It just depends on how light you are really wanting to go, but most do a combo of both. Hit me up over at Lethalperformance.com to see what we can do for you!

I definitely disagree with the cost effectiveness of weight savings. As primary first mods. Just for the fronts. Light weight brakes $700-1500 dollars. Plus install. Light weight wheels $250 and way up per wheel. K member $1100 and up for a 39 pound weight reduction. Plus cost of install. Light weight battery $300 for a 15 pound savings. $200 for a front and rear crash bar that saves 15 pounds combined. And you have to remove half the car to install. Aluminum drive shaft cost 6-800. But only saves 10 pounds. And they vibrate more than stock. Now taking seats and floor mats out is free. Draining windshield washer fluid is free. Once you get past the free stuff. You can tie up 3 or 4 grand to drop a couple hundred pounds. Or you can get an E85 tune and headers. For less than $1500. Header install is another $500. Its easier to add power.

 

[Stephen@lethal]

I definitely disagree with the cost effectiveness of weight savings. As primary first mods. Just for the fronts. Light weight brakes $700-1500 dollars. Plus install. Light weight wheels $250 and way up per wheel. K member $1100 and up for a 39 pound weight reduction. Plus cost of install. Light weight battery $300 for a 15 pound savings. $200 for a front and rear crash bar that saves 15 pounds combined. And you have to remove half the car to install. Aluminum drive shaft cost 6-800. But only saves 10 pounds. And they vibrate more than stock. Now taking seats and floor mats out is free. Draining windshield washer fluid is free. Once you get past the free stuff. You can tie up 3 or 4 grand to drop a couple hundred pounds. Or you can get an E85 tune and headers. For less than $1500. Header install is another $500. Its easier to add power.

Oh I agree, as a first mod, its not something I would do alone for sure, but it does become the more cost effective mod at for a bolt on car after a certain point.

 

[3star2nr]

My next step was going for LT headers but I’m wondering 1. What kind of power can I expect 2.how much louder will it be? (Currently have x pipe and borla exhaust). I love the way it sounds now (a little louder would be nice) but my friend has a full corsa setup on a charger and it’s PAINFULLY loud. Was also considering mods to lighten up the car instead.

thoughts?

It's gonna be really fucking loud...

Especially if you have a 3" catback and no cats...

 

[Five_Point_OHHH]

It's gonna be really fucking loud...

Especially if you have a 3" catback and no cats...

Yea, loud I'm ok with, but really fucking loud is a concern. My buddy has a charger with full corsa and its fun for about 15 seconds and then you just can't hear anything else. And i'm not trying to get kicked out of my building.

 

[3star2nr]

My next step was going for LT headers but I’m wondering 1. What kind of power can I expect 2.how much louder will it be? (Currently have x pipe and borla exhaust). I love the way it sounds now (a little louder would be nice) but my friend has a full corsa setup on a charger and it’s PAINFULLY loud. Was also considering mods to lighten up the car instead.

thoughts?

What size borla exhaust do u have both the stinger and atak come in 3" and 2.5"

I'd imagine the 2.5 wont be too bad. And you have the option of taming it later by running resonators. And worse case scenario a removable silencer

Also do you ever plan on supercharging?
If yes get the 1-7/8
If no get 1-3/4 you will make more power with the smaller primaries on an NA build.

I'd just get the headers installed and tuned then you can worry about taking the noise.

Good luck man

 

[5had0w]

Recently had headers installed.

1. Sound projects further and it’s not painful. It can be for others though. I’ve learned not to care. Also I’ve had experience with/without a tune for LTH. #2 will express the difference.

The aim wasn’t for the loudest cat-back to combine it with to start with (Corsa sport). I’m more the considerate type, and it’s fun. It can easy be controlled with your right foot and yes it can scream when you let loose. I’ve come to enjoy it honestly. It’s a nice option to have.

2. Power has increased for sure. Reference point being 2nd gear, it used to be a fun 100% throttle power gear. Even with a NON LTH tune. Now 3rd is my fun power gear when tuned for LTH. This is for 91 btw. Traction no longer holds in 2nd in any way unless using less than 100% of the pedal.

Weight reduction can be done for sure, it is however usually the most expensive when it comes to cost/benefit. If you wish to veer towards that direction, awesome.

Yes biased but I love to tell people, we all have at least 20 lbs we can lose. Consider starting there? lol. Costs less than 2 piece rotors or the inconvenience of removing any seats. Yet alone anything else.

 

[bnightstar]

So I'm kind of in the same booth with my 2017 GT so far this is the possible weight savings:

Tech 7 Wheels 34
Rear Seat Delete 30
FRPP by Borla catback 30
Antigravity Battery 26
OEM Aluminum Diff Housing, Loaded 22
Or a total of 142 lbs on 3805 lbs car or 3.7% weight lost.

On the stock motor this will change Weight to Power from 9.63 to 9.23 lbs per HP since mine is euro and it's 395 hp.

If I put PP3 60 hp more like 42 (all around) and FRPP by Borla the result will be: 8.63. And without the 30 lbs weight reduction will be 8.70.

So it's much easier to add power to the car considering you can always go Forced Induction than to remove weight at least for a Daily/Truck Day car. For dedicated race car is much different but there I think will be cheaper to just but a GT4 Mustang or something dedicated for the track.

 

[2morrow]

Valid points and appreciate it, although I'm not planning on dragging the car, plan is to track it

For a track build (Not strip, theres a difference) losing weight is great for performance. You'll handle, brake and be able to change direction better.

However, it gets expensive.

Your thoughts of rear seat delete (mine is coming out too), Lightweight buckets (Check out the Sparco QRT series, Amazing stuff with great value) are all good ideas.
I'm adding a lightweight 4 point roll cage so I'm adding weight back in. If you got dollars to spend check out the antigravity batteries but don't waste your time or
money routing it to the rear as adding the cables add a lot of weight. Lightweight rotors are great for this too. I'm sure you do this already but take out all the crap
in your car/trunk (pump, center console contents, etc.). A friend of mine even unbolts the shotgun side seat. Long story short, save your money.

I did both, added power and lost weight and the car is a BLAST at the track.

To your comments about volume, one thing to think about is noise level at tracks. Some tracks have noise restrictions and I've seen people get booted which really
sux when all your friends are having fun and you're on your way home.

I'm assuming your home track is Mid Ohio? Got any footage yet?

Be safe out there.

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