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Mach 1 Audiophile Grade System with Tesla Style Screen

Should I have bought a Dark Horse instead of the Mach 1 and adding a Tesla screen?


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Mach1Racer

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I decided after I sold my 2021 Mach 1 that I would buy another. The car had a horrible audio system and cloth seats. I couldn’t enjoy the audio with the windows down due to wind noise. Plus I had a Odin Supercharger with Long Tubes and no cats.

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I wanted a Mach 1 with the Handling Package, heated and cooled seats with leather, and the upgraded factory audio system. I always felt that was what the car was missing even after adding the chin and rear spoiler to my old Mach.

As the song writer says, “You Can't Always Get What You Want.” (The Rolling Stones 1969). I found a Mach 1 just like I wanted but still had the bogus base model 9 speaker audio setup.


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Therefore, I guess we are going to have to gut all the factory audio system and start over.

I will dedicate this thread to share my experience with attempting to build a Audiophile style audio system on a budget.
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Mach1Racer

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After looking at the a Dark Horse, I developed “Screen Envy.” LOL

Therefore, I figured the so called Tesla Screen mod would quench my need for more screen footage.

Furthermore, I don’t think one should try to build an audiophile level system with a wire spliced DSP device and FORScan.

The answer seems to be the Navos “Tesla Style” screen.

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Again, the reason for this thread to to share my experience with these products. I will have a detailed write and video once the installation is completed.

The Navos provides a 4 volt preout for Left/Right, Front/Rear, and Sub.

It’s supposed a DSP (digital sound processor) with Equalizer. Once again, I will report back on how well this works.

Additionally, I am becoming frustrated with the ideal the the Ford factory system is sending my driving habits to them so they can sale it to Lexis Nexus which could raise my insurance. Therefore, we are going to cut the head off the snake!

I will be replacing all inside speakers with Focal Audio.

These are the following going in as we speak.


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The Focal Flax Evo installed on the door. Using a precious small amount of sound deadening material to limit rattling and vibrations.

Don’t want to add too much weight to the car if I can help it.

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Amplification for this system had to meet a high level of fidelity as well efficiency. As I have stated before, I didn’t want to add too much weight if I can help it.

Therefore, am going with JL Audio.

D-class design is highly efficient and lightweight compared to a AB-class amp.

5-channel design allows me to get by with just one amplifier instead of two amps with extra wiring, extra weight, and more real-estate.
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5 channel, D-class, Regulated Power Supply
Power on Hi and Mid: 100 Watts x 4 @ 4 ohms
Power on Subwoofer: 500 Watts x 1 @ 2-4 ohms
All @ 14.4 - 12.5 volts
Weight: 6.85 lbs

This should be enough power for the Focal 6.5 inch 3 way and 2 way components.

Here are those specs:
Focal Flax Evo

PS 165 F3E
Design: 3-way
Tweeter: 1 inch
Mid woofer: 3 in
Bass Woofer: 6.5 in

Frequency response (+/- 3dB) : 60Hz - 28kHz
  • Sensitivity : 90.5 dB
  • Maximum SPL (peak@1m) : 87.5 DECIBEL
Nominal Power: 80 watts
Maximum Power: 160 watts
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms

PS 165 FXE
Design: 2-way
Tweeter: 1 inch
Bass Woofer: 6.5 in
Frequency response (+/- 3dB) : 55-28kHz
  • Sensitivity : 90.5 dB
  • Maximum SPL (peak@1m) : 90.5 DECIBEL
Nominal Power: 80 watts
Maximum Power: 160 watts
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms
 
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Current progress.

New head unit going in.
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Mach1Racer

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Lets take a look at the factory 6.5 inch woofer for the door and the Focal Flax Evo replacement.

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Notice that the Focal looks smaller but it is not. It’s the difference in color that makes it seems smaller. In fact, the rubber surround allows for a longer throw for deep bass response.

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Secondly, you can see both speakers are vastly different in terms of depth. Therefore, the install required the Focal Flax Evo woofer to be spaced out further away from the window for roll down clearance.

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The rear shows a more robust frame and larger magnet. Not that this can be seen but the Focal speaker is in fact heavier than the Ford original.
 
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Subscribed just to watch…I love a good sounding system, but my knowledge on the subject could fill an ants picnic basket 🫠
I will share all of it in detail. Back in the late 90’s and early 2000’s; your car wasn’t right if you didn’t have a custom system in it.

Most went away from building a nice system because many factory upgraded systems are just barely good enough to leave it alone; plus replacing the factory radio head units is getting next to impossible.

However, I decided that this is the last Mustang I will own. Therefore, I will finish fully.

Tint, Audio System, Force Induction, and Wheels. (In this order)
 
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Progress right now.

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Power Wire has been ran with in line fuse and fabric mesh wire loom/sleave.
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Preparing to mount amp and 2 farad capacitor. Also added a small amount of sound deadening. Not sure how the installation of this is going to look but I want everything down in the spare tire well.
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S550HPP

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With everything in the well be sure to have air surrounding the amp and some airflow....gets hot in there.
 

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With everything in the well be sure to have air surrounding the amp and some airflow....gets hot in there.
You got a point. I was thinking the amp being D-class would run cooler do to its inherent efficiency.

My old school AB-class amps (Rockfordfosgate, Eclipse) had fans and could boil an egg on them when push hard. I was younger then and loved to “demonstrate” everywhere I went. I’m more focused on Sound Quality instead of SPL (sound pressure level) now.

Whatever we come up with, I will also take heat measurements and share them with you all. If I have to move it, I will do what’s necessary.

Please share any other thoughts, insights, knowledge you or any others might have.
 

S550HPP

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What is that amp and what's your amp / DSP plan?

If you have the funds it's way easier / simpler install to get a compact DSP amp installed in footwell OE location plus a mono block amp in the trunk area....
 
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What is that amp and what's your amp / DSP plan?

If you have the funds it's way easier / simpler install to get a compact DSP amp installed in footwell OE location plus a mono block amp in the trunk area....
The amp is the JL Audio HD 900/5.

This amp will power the Focal 3-way front, 2-way rears, and Sub. It’s has 5 channels.

The full details are listed in Post #4.

As far as the DSP, the Navos T-style radio replacement has a DSP built in and Equalizer.
 

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Per JL "vertical heat sinks located at the sides of the amplifier should be exposed to as large a volume of air as possible".

Can always move it from well to seat back or other if not getting enough convection cooling, which may not be obvious since it reduces performance on overheating VS a hard shutdown.....

Nice to have adjustable DSP in head unit.

Looking forward to the final results and DSP tuning experience.
 

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The amp is the JL Audio HD 900/5.

This amp will power the Focal 3-way front, 2-way rears, and Sub. It’s has 5 channels.

The full details are listed in Post #4.

As far as the DSP, the Navos T-style radio replacement has a DSP built in and Equalizer.
I fear that the DSP functions of the head unit will be pretty limited since you're only running 5 channels of amplification. Most DPS implementations work best when each speaker is individually amplified.

That said, you should be able to do a pretty basic time alignment that will allow the sub to blend really well with the front speakers.

*edited because I can't type
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