Looking for some input

[chowman90]

Hello, I'm in the process of upgrading my system and am having some headaches. Ive done my setup very similar to another member (Mikes2017GT). I'm having issues with my sub amp that keeps going into protection mode only when I start the car. I have a 4 channel amp and a sub amp. I also have a Dayton DSP 408(which I am thinking of going to the JBL TWK88). When the car is in acc mode, everything works and sound good. When I start the car, the sound sounds like crap and my sub amp goes into protection mode.

I use to just run a LOC - tapping into the rear speaker leads, then into the sub amp which did work. When I re-did everything, I have the above mentioned issue. I am using harnesses made by Hextall. I did some troubleshooting but really don't know what I'm looking for. I did notice that when I did unplug one of the RCA's coming from the DSP to the sub amp that it did go out of the protection mode when the car was running. Thought it might be the DSP. I also tried just running a RCA cable directly from the harness to the sub amp. Same problem happens, pull one connector out of the amp, and everything seems ok. Thought it might be the sub amp but had purchased a new one, same model, and hooked it up and same problem so I believe its not the amp.

If anyone can give me suggestions, I would really appreciate it as this is driving me insane lol.

Thanks

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[BadHabit2Break]

That DSP is known to have issues. But since you bypassed it and still have it, it's got to be the harness maybe.

 

[chowman90]

That DSP is known to have issues. But since you bypassed it and still have it, it's got to be the harness maybe.

Thought it might be the harness as well and had one made up, still have the same problem OMG.

Thanks for replying

 

[OF5.0]

Which amplifier is going into protection mode upon starting the car (amp make, model, and age)?

 

[chowman90]

Which amplifier is going into protection mode upon starting the car (amp make, model, and age)?

Thanks for the reply. Its a Hertz HCP1DK. Its about 5 years old. Rarely used. As mentioned before, it did work when I just had a LOC hooked up to it. Also had a capacitor hooked up as well but was told that I didn't need to use it. Also, have to mention that my battery is a little on the weak side. Plan on replacing the battery in the spring time as the car is not being driven now

 

[OF5.0]

Thanks for the reply. Its a Hertz HCP1DK. Its about 5 years old. Rarely used. As mentioned before, it did work when I just had a LOC hooked up to it. Also had a capacitor hooked up as well but was told that I didn't need to use it. Also, have to mention that my battery is a little on the weak side. Plan on replacing the battery in the spring time as the car is not being driven now

I think that your amp is going into protection mode when you are starting the car due to a low-voltage condition. I’m willing to bet that your battery replacement will fix the problem.

 

[chowman90]

I think that your amp is going into protection mode when you are starting the car due to a low-voltage condition. I’m willing to bet that your battery replacement will fix the problem.

Definitely is one of my thoughts as well. Will have to maybe just bite the bullet and get a new battery anyway. Thanks

 

[StangTime]

Measure the voltage at the amplifier power terminals in ACC and in RUN mode. What do you get?

 

[chowman90]

Measure the voltage at the amplifier power terminals in ACC and in RUN mode. What do you get?

Will check that tonight. Thanks for replying

 

[chowman90]

Measure the voltage at the amplifier power terminals in ACC and in RUN mode. What do you get?

12.4 in ACC mode
13.6 in Run mode

 

[OF5.0]

What battery voltage does your car dip to when you crank the car to start it?

 

[chowman90]

What battery voltage does your car dip to when you crank the car to start it?

Thanks for replying. Will have to check that out tomorrow. Thanks

 

[StangTime]

12.4 in ACC mode
13.6 in Run mode

That's good. This is with the amp connected and audio system ON right?
Can you measure any DC offset voltage on the RCA inputs? Unplug and use your voltmeter from the tip to the outer ring.
What connection are you using for remote turn on for the amp?
The amp RCA inputs are all mixed down to mono inside the amp so you really only need one RCA connected.
Do you know where these RCA signals are coming from? What lines are they connected to?

 

[chowman90]

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes the amp is on when the car is running. I have measured the rca's... getting around the .800ish volts on all fours. Once I had like 1.3ish on one rca. Maybe a misprobe? The rca's ate coming from a Hextall built harness. Black Molex plug. Was connecting the rca's to all 4. Fronts and rears. I know Mikes2017GT was only using the fronts. Side note, my battery is weak. Had a load test performed. Have been keeping it on a tricke charger. I know I have to get a new one. Was using the remote lead coming from Heaxtall's harness running to a PAC TR 4 harness. Still thinking of getting the JL audio DSP. Think I'm have issues as well with the Dayton.

 

[StangTime]

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes the amp is on when the car is running. I have measured the rca's... getting around the .800ish volts on all fours. Once I had like 1.3ish on one rca. Maybe a misprobe? The rca's ate coming from a Hextall built harness. Black Molex plug. Was connecting the rca's to all 4. Fronts and rears. I know Mikes2017GT was only using the fronts. Side note, my battery is weak. Had a load test performed. Have been keeping it on a tricke charger. I know I have to get a new one. Was using the remote lead coming from Heaxtall's harness running to a PAC TR 4 harness. Still thinking of getting the JL audio DSP. Think I'm have issues as well with the Dayton.

All good info and it appears you are doing everything correctly in terms of connections.
You need a new battery anyway. So let's see if that changes anything.

Have you tried swapping front to rear on the RCA inputs? With the head unit fader set to the middle position, all four RCA's will have roughly the same levels. By moving the RCA's from one amp to another does the problem persist or does the problem move with the RCA's?

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