Looking for more snap off the line

[2018Creamsicle]

I know this question has been asked 1000 times before, but I’d just like some guidance from people who have been there. My head is about to explode after reading 100 different threads about options for getting a little harder launch. I’m coming from a 2012 3.73 manual 5.0 into a 2018 A10 3.15 vert. The old car had a lot harder initial hit from a stop, and I’m trying to figure out the best mods to wake up the 2018. Don’t get me wrong—It’s plenty quick after it gets some revs built, but it feels like a dog off the line, and I’ve tried power braking, different drive modes, disabling traction and stability control, etc, and it still seems to fall on its face for a second or so before it starts running like hell. I’ve read about 3.55 gear swaps, Flex fuel tunes, etc. I’m wondering how much of this is due to the 3.15 and how much is just torque management. I know the A10 is generally quicker than the 6MT on paper, but I’m really missing my manual.

Any tips on what I’m doing wrong or what I need to do to feel some more push in the seat?

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[Diocletian]

1. Make sure you fully disable AdvanceTrac by holding the traction button for 5-7 seconds. OR pull the plug that controls the ‘safety nannies’. Your power won’t get robbed on hard acceleration so it will feel better.

2. Upgrade torque converter like the one from Circle D. This will allow for better launches and lower 60’ times, where the Mustang kinda lacks.

3. Carbon fiber one-piece driveshaft. This should be obvious, less rotational weight, more power to the ground, better launches. This with a torque converter, even with 3.15 gears, would give a BIG difference on the low end.

4. Better tires

5. IRS lockout kit to keep the rear end planted

6. E85 tune

All these will put you well into the mid to low 11’s in the quarter. Keep in mind when changing out driveshafts you’re mileage may vary, some will produce NVH. I would say your top 3 should be IRS lockout, E85 tune, and a good set of tires. Disabling the nannies should be used at your discretion, but if you’re confident in your driving you should be fine!

 

[FruityJudy]

I would say a convertor and gears. You may skip the 3.55 and go 3.73. But everything diocletion says is spot on

 

[BmacIL]

I know this question has been asked 1000 times before, but I’d just like some guidance from people who have been there. My head is about to explode after reading 100 different threads about options for getting a little harder launch. I’m coming from a 2012 3.73 manual 5.0 into a 2018 A10 3.15 vert. The old car had a lot harder initial hit from a stop, and I’m trying to figure out the best mods to wake up the 2018. Don’t get me wrong—It’s plenty quick after it gets some revs built, but it feels like a dog off the line, and I’ve tried power braking, different drive modes, disabling traction and stability control, etc, and it still seems to fall on its face for a second or so before it starts running like hell. I’ve read about 3.55 gear swaps, Flex fuel tunes, etc. I’m wondering how much of this is due to the 3.15 and how much is just torque management. I know the A10 is generally quicker than the 6MT on paper, but I’m really missing my manual.

Any tips on what I’m doing wrong or what I need to do to feel some more push in the seat?

It's definitely torque management and the gearing, though less the gearing with the very short first couple gears in the A10. I'd put that swap on your list, and try to get the torsen diff while you are at it (whole pumpkin swap). A good tune from Lund (even 93 tune) will definitely make a huge difference though, and will fix that loss of torque right up.

Keep in mind that your new car is about 300-400 lbs heavier than the old one too (I'm assuming the '12 was a hardtop).

 

[Zinc03svt]

E85 tune.

 

[Jmtoast]

E85 tune with headers, xpipe or just simply Boost. You won't be happy until you bite the bullet on one or the other. of course with either you'll have to make changes to the suspension and tires.

 

[Bluelightning]

Whipple and disable advancetrac. This will definitely give you some more snap off the line.

 

[ugstang17]

Converter will help...but you're not going to get the hit off of an auto like you did with your stick shift car...without going to a transbrake setup. A sta;; converter on the footbrake alone will yield you maybe 3000-3200 tops before trying to push through the brake in spite of the stall rate being higher. Example - My 2014 had a 3200 stall in it. The car would start pushing through the brakes on the rear at about 2400 with 540ish to the wheels on footbrake. So to get a higher RPM launch you will need a transbrake to get the same leave you could obtain on a good hook with your stick shift setup.

As I understand it there is the capability of activating a transbrake function through a tune via an HPtuner device from PBD. Couldn't tell you any more on it than that. So that paired up with a Stall converter will help you a lot. Do some research.

As for gearing the 10R80 1st is 4.70:1. Paired with a 3.15 dif that equates to 14.8:1 rolling out of the hole. Your 12 with a getrag had a 3.66 1st and paired with the 3.73 equated to 13.65 final ratio. So you are already shorter overall than on your 12. Try running a 26" tire before considering the 3.55 swap. The stock tire height is 27" on the car. But overall the best bet for the harder launch will be a converter and/or transbrake.

 

[Zinc03svt]

I don’t think the OP is looking for full drag hang the front wheels kinda mods. Cat delete (optional) with E85 tuning hitting timing in the lower mid range would be most bang for the $.

 

[AlmostFamous]

1. Make sure you fully disable AdvanceTrac by holding the traction button for 5-7 seconds. OR pull the plug that controls the ‘safety nannies’. Your power won’t get robbed on hard acceleration so it will feel better.

2. Upgrade torque converter like the one from Circle D. This will allow for better launches and lower 60’ times, where the Mustang kinda lacks.

3. Carbon fiber one-piece driveshaft. This should be obvious, less rotational weight, more power to the ground, better launches. This with a torque converter, even with 3.15 gears, would give a BIG difference on the low end.

4. Better tires

5. IRS lockout kit to keep the rear end planted

6. E85 tune

All these will put you well into the mid to low 11’s in the quarter. Keep in mind when changing out driveshafts you’re mileage may vary, some will produce NVH. I would say your top 3 should be IRS lockout, E85 tune, and a good set of tires. Disabling the nannies should be used at your discretion, but if you’re confident in your driving you should be fine!

This. E85 tune, torque converter, tires. Just those 3 will make a night and day difference off the line for an A10 car. Just an E85 tune and better tires will make a huge difference off the line.

 

[Zrussian13]

E85 tune.

Plus 1 e85 tune is the best place to start.

 

[ugstang17]

I don’t think the OP is looking for full drag hang the front wheels kinda mods. Cat delete (optional) with E85 tuning hitting timing in the lower mid range would be most bang for the $.

OP wants to leave harder more like his 2012 stick shift setup. I provided him 411 for being able to do that or steps to get closer to doing that. It's not my place to assume to what level he wishes to take it. He can do his own thinking and rationalizing after he reads the various feedback and make a conclusion from there. Doesn't make one bit of difference to me one way or the other. What I won't do is do his thinking for him. He's a big boy, he can evaluate and make his own decisions. It's not for me to decide how far he wishes to take the build. Plenty of street cars are running stall converters and transbrakes on them. It can be done mild or it can be done all out. It's up to the individual.

 

[Zinc03svt]

OP wants to leave harder more like his 2012 stick shift setup. I provided him 411 for being able to do that or steps to get closer to doing that. It's not my place to assume to what level he wishes to take it. He can do his own thinking and rationalizing after he reads the various feedback and make a conclusion from there. Doesn't make one bit of difference to me one way or the other. What I won't do is do his thinking for him. He's a big boy, he can evaluate and make his own decisions. It's not for me to decide how far he wishes to take the build. Plenty of street cars are running stall converters and transbrakes on them. It can be done mild or it can be done all out. It's up to the individual.

I would agree we more than covered the full spectrum of what “more snap” off the line may mean to him. ;).

 

[ugstang17]

I would agree we more than covered the full spectrum of what “more snap” off the line may mean to him. ;).

I must have made you feel little. Sorry about that.

 

[Zinc03svt]

I must have made you feel little. Sorry about that.

All good. We all just have different perceptions and experiences. More snap to me on 18 plus is easily added with corn if available. Other people see more snap as 4c converter, slicks, and 12k twin turbo setup. My read on his post was he was looking for a more simple/affordable remedy versus the other. My guess may be totally wrong or somewhere in between. ;).

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