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DrumReaper

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LHM Super Ford in Salt Lake just took delivery of an R. Says $4000 dealer discount—so either bait and switch, or they don’t know what they have?

https://www.lhmford.com/all-inventory/index.htm
Again, the Ford software the dealers use automatically applies “Mustang” discounts to online pricing. The software hasn’t been programmed to distinguish btw a GT350 vs a regular Mustang. The dealers should check their websites though, and quickly adjust the price.
 

ParkCity06

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ok got it.

their sister store where i bought my HEP R for $300 under MSRP, has a GT500 CFTP with a $50k ADM. I asked if i could buy it at MSRP, and what a laugh they had.

assume ford is making less of these than a HEP R?
 

DrumReaper

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ok got it.

their sister store where i bought my HEP R for $300 under MSRP, has a GT500 CFTP with a $50k ADM. I asked if i could buy it at MSRP, and what a laugh they had.

assume ford is making less of these than a HEP R?
I would seriously doubt that. I’m sure, as time currently exists, there are roughly 206 - 215 HEP Rs and I can tell you there are already more CFTPs than that.

You managed a great feat if you got your HEP R under MSRP... congrats.
 

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ParkCity06

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I would seriously doubt that. I’m sure, as time currently exists, there are roughly 206 - 215 HEP Rs and I can tell you there are already more CFTPs than that.

You managed a great feat if you got your HEP R under MSRP... congrats.
yeah. long relationship with the dealer. but i guess not long enough for MSRP for the CFTP. haha.
 

UpTop

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Is it better to have the PDI done by the original (out of state) dealer? Or should I have it done by my local dealer? Does anyone have a picture of all of the protective materials on the car? Now that my car is getting close I want to send the dealer specific instructions! Damn I’m getting excited
 
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Is it better to have the PDI done by the original (out of state) dealer? Or should I have it done by my local dealer? Does anyone have a picture of all of the protective materials on the car? Now that my car is getting close I want to send the dealer specific instructions! Damn I’m getting excited
Only the original receiving dealer can make any damage claims against the shipping carrier and they only have 48 hours in which to do so too. I would have original dealer do everything minus the front splitter installation/shipping blocks if it's a R, that way if there's hidden underbody damage, it'll get taken care of with no expensive to you. I hope that helps and good luck with the rest of the wait for your 350!
 

UpTop

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Only the original receiving dealer can make any damage claims against the shipping carrier and they only have 48 hours in which to do so too. I would have original dealer do everything minus the front splitter installation/shipping blocks if it's a R, that way if there's hidden underbody damage, it'll get taken care of with no expensive to you. I hope that helps and good luck with the rest of the wait for your 350!
Appreciate the help, and yes, The closer it gets the more impatient I get LOL!

Incoming bombardment of questions:
It is an R, and annoyingly it’s across the country. Is there any downside of not having a routine PDI done? I’m thinking about asking them to not touch the car other than removing the shipping blocks (So I don’t have to remove the wheels when it gets here). Any downside to keeping all of the interior/exterior protective materials (other than the shipping blocks) on the car?
On a separate note, my car just went from Shipped RAIL to blank, does that mean anything?
 
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Appreciate the help, and yes, The closer it gets the more impatient I get LOL!

Incoming bombardment of questions:
It is an R, and annoyingly it’s across the country. Is there any downside of not having a routine PDI done? I’m thinking about asking them to not touch the car other than removing the shipping blocks (So I don’t have to remove the wheels when it gets here). Any downside to keeping all of the interior/exterior protective materials (other than the shipping blocks) on the car?
On a separate note, my car just went from Shipped RAIL to blank, does that mean anything?
If you want to leabe it alone as much as possible, then I would just make sure they at least put it up on a hoist to inspect the underside. When mine came in last month everything looked just fine from the ground, but if I hadn't put it on a hoist I never would have seen the four inch gouge in the rear wheel and I'd of had to pay for it. No harm in leaving the plastic wrap on. They sit out in the sun for weeks at the factory, so what's another week getting transported to you, haha. The rail shipping is weird to track, it's usually updated at various rail checkpoints in transit and then again when it gets to the final yard where a regular hauler picks it up. I wouldn't worry too much about it blanking out, just give it time or have the dealer email you a copy of the current vehicle visibility status tracking screen.
 

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Is there any downside of not having a routine PDI done? I’m thinking about asking them to not touch the car other than removing the shipping blocks (So I don’t have to remove the wheels when it gets here). Any downside to keeping all of the interior/exterior protective materials (other than the shipping blocks) on the car?
Like mavrckofhemlok mentioned above, have the original dealer do the PDI except for the install of the front splitter and the removal of the shipping blocks. Just tell them not to wash it and to leave all the shipping plastic and stickers on the car. The wheels actually don't need to come off to remove the shipping blocks. You can pull them out with the car in the air. If there's any damage from shipping or something is not working properly, they'll document it.
 

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If you’re shipping the car I’d recommend keeping the shipping blocks in place as it makes for getting in and off a trailer a little easier.
As for removing the blocks, you don’t have to remove the wheels. When you get the car home, just jack up the car on each corner and let the wheels hang suspended and you can easily work the blocks out... at least that’s how I got them out on my 16’ R. One had already popped out from transit.
 

AAI Mustang

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If you’re shipping the car I’d recommend keeping the shipping blocks in place as it makes for getting in and off a trailer a little easier.
As for removing the blocks, you don’t have to remove the wheels. When you get the car home, just jack up the car on each corner and let the wheels hang suspended and you can easily work the blocks out... at least that’s how I got them out on my 16’ R. One had already popped out from transit.
I'm guessing once the blocks are out to test the suspension/driving you can't put them back in? or can you?
 

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thanks, they pulled them out to do PDI and I'm getting it shipped and was just wondering. Should be fine
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