Knock knock here comes a new block

[sigintel]

You cant. They dont sell flat crank only std for 5.2

If I was to build a 5.2 with the flat plane crank. Will the factory ecu fire in that order or will I need a standalone

Ford is keeping the FPC exclusive to GT350.

Grab the 5.2 short block and put your heads on it? If you are FI then heads matter little for the dollar.
Change springs if you want 8000rpm.

New aluminator 5.2 crate comes out this month.

Maybe just buy a crank damper from ATI and replace all the rods and pistons? New timing train while you have if apart.

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[zaquhree]

some questions:

What fuel?
What oil weight?
What oil brand and what oil filter?
Stock TB to Oil pan or did you have OPG/CG?

Thank you.

 

[turbo50]

some questions:

What fuel?
What oil weight?
What oil brand and what oil filter?
Stock TB to Oil pan or did you have OPG/CG?

Thank you.

93, 5-20, amsoil, Bosch, stock block minus opg/cg

 

[zaquhree]

93, 5-20, amsoil, Bosch, stock block minus opg/cg

Thank you for answering that. I appreciate your time and sorry for your loss :amen:

 

[Reds197]

If block is ok I would do a rod and piston build. Much less expensive, can still be ran to 8000, and makes 950-1000 on a turbo car fairly safe.

Sorry to hear!

 

[daniel_94kg]

Damn dude. Sorry to hear about that. Sounds like the same crap that happened to me. I'm going with stock block, Wiesco pistons, Manley rods and depending on how the crank looks it'll either be getting replaced, or sent to the machine shop to be fixed if it's not too bad.

good luck with your rebuild.

 

[samcrac]

Is it just me but are all these motor issues happening with Paxton kits?

 

[Nick@JDM]

For a boosted car you should stick with the small bore blocks over the 5.2 BB block. The 5.2 does not have sleeves and is designed for N/A power. Not that it can't handle boost but the Ford Racing R block or a sleeved GT block would be my choice for a boosted build. This will give you room to grow.

For others reading this thread and worrying about their engine failing...it can happen to any engine with any configuration. These engines are not hand assembles. Mass production engines will have failures. Throw boost at one that wasn't build as good as the rest and you will find the weak link.

 

[zaquhree]

For a boosted car you should stick with the small bore blocks over the 5.2 BB block. The 5.2 does not have sleeves and is designed for N/A power. Not that it can't handle boost but the Ford Racing R block or a sleeved GT block would be my choice for a boosted build. This will give you room to grow.

For others reading this thread and worrying about their engine failing...it can happen to any engine with any configuration. These engines are not hand assembles. Mass production engines will have failures. Throw boost at one that wasn't build as good as the rest and you will find the weak link.

Nick have you seen a correlation to oil weight and failures? What do you recommend in your boosted coyote cars?

 

[Nick@JDM]

Nick have you seen a correlation to oil weight and failures? What do you recommend in your boosted coyote cars?

I have not seen any direct correlation but I would go with a good 5w50 and change it every 3000mi.

We run Driven 5w50 in all of our Cobra Jet race cars but that's not the easiest stuff to get. Amsoil makes a 5w50 and so does Motorcraft. The Motorcraft stuff degrades rather quickly so if you go with that just change it every 3k miles.

Track pack and GT350 cars use 5w50 because Ford knows those cars may be beat on more than a regular GT.

When you add boost to a car that normally takes 5w20 I would step it up to what Ford recommends on their high performance cars, 5w50.

 

[esacteksab]

I have not seen any direct correlation but I would go with a good 5w50 and change it every 3000mi.

We run Driven 5w50 in all of our Cobra Jet race cars but that's not the easiest stuff to get. Amsoil makes a 5w50 and so does Motorcraft. The Motorcraft stuff degrades rather quickly so if you go with that just change it every 3k miles.

Track pack and GT350 cars use 5w50 because Ford knows those cars may be beat on more than a regular GT.

When you add boost to a car that normally takes 5w20 I would step it up to what Ford recommends on their high performance cars, 5w50.

Does your recommendation of 5w50 change if a person were boosted with E85?

 

[zaquhree]

I have not seen any direct correlation but I would go with a good 5w50 and change it every 3000mi.

We run Driven 5w50 in all of our Cobra Jet race cars but that's not the easiest stuff to get. Amsoil makes a 5w50 and so does Motorcraft. The Motorcraft stuff degrades rather quickly so if you go with that just change it every 3k miles.

Track pack and GT350 cars use 5w50 because Ford knows those cars may be beat on more than a regular GT.

When you add boost to a car that normally takes 5w20 I would step it up to what Ford recommends on their high performance cars, 5w50.

I just saw a post about driven F20 and F25. Seems expensive and I am slightly skeptica when I read the stangtv article. Are you a vendor of driven oil?

 

[Nick@JDM]

Does your recommendation of 5w50 change if a person were boosted with E85?

No but when running E85 you want to make sure you get the oil up to full temp every drive. Short start and stops like driving a few miles to work (if you are lucky enough to have an easy commute) and shutting the car off is not a good thing. The oil has to get hot to burn off impurities that dilute it such as what E85 can do to the oil.

E85 is nasty stuff so regular oil changes are even more important (don't be lazy).

I also don't recommend cold T-Stats for this same reason especially when running E85. The motor needs to get hot. All the colder T-stat does is make the motor take longer to reach operating temp. That's all ill say on the T-stat topic cause I know 20 people are going to jump me on this

 

[Barrel]

Does your recommendation of 5w50 change if a person were boosted with E85?

As long as the oil is rated for ILSAC GF-5 specs it shouldn't matter whether it's E85 or 93.

 

[Nick@JDM]

I just saw a post about driven F20 and F25. Seems expensive and I am slightly skeptica when I read the stangtv article. Are you a vendor of driven oil?

StangTV jumped on it since the oil was "designed for the Coyote" but the oil has been working well for us on 1000+whp Cobra Jets. We run it in our 5.4 and 5.0s.

We are not a direct dealer but I believe Summit carries it. We just buy it as we need it for our NHRA cars.

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