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JMS fuelmax question

Jonspeed

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Just quoting this so I can save it for reference when I build my car in a few weeks! Thanks!

O.k. here are my settings.

Switch 1 - on (initially for setup)
Switch 2 - on (for 22V)
Switch 3 - on (for voltage ramp from the pedal input)
Switch 4 - off (you want this off cause it sets your overall ramp @ 0.8V with DS 5 off)
Switch 5 - on (This DS sets the point of where the voltage is 100% fueling to 3.2V)

then switch 1 off to save the programming. The LED should blink.

You can adjust the input trigger to be earlier with the first dial Pot. I have that set at 2.4V as instructed.

So in my setup the voltage starts to ramp up at 2.4 Volts and is at 100% (all 22Volts) at 3.2V (almost 3/4 pedal) all the way to 5V (WOT)

You can move your ramp around between the Pot being set at different initial trigger voltages and then the amount of voltage with the dip switches to get to the max voltage of 18V or 22V. You can do

Dip Switch = (DS) Pot = Potentiometer
\\\\\3\\4\\5\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
.4V On On Off Example (Pot set to 1.8V + the .4V DS = full Volts at 2.2V)
.8V On Off On Example (Pot set to 2.0V + the .8V DS = full Volts at 2.8V)
1.2V On On On Example (Pot set to 3.2V + the 1.2VDS = full Volts at 4.2V)


So you can also set for zero ramp so as soon as the Pot is met with right foot then the BAP comes on 100% (18-22V).

Kind of a neat tuning tool as you can bring your fueling in later or sooner.
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Jonspeed

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Additionally which is better the JMS Fuelmax activated by MAF/MAP/TPS/Ground (which i think is the pedal position on correct? Or the JMS Fuelmax activated by internal boost sensor?

About to order just want to make sure I have the right one or the easiest for plug and play.
 

r1lovin

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I'm going with jms on my car also, ill try z06's settings. It's all so complicated to me lol
 

z06psi

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Additionally which is better the JMS Fuelmax activated by MAF/MAP/TPS/Ground (which i think is the pedal position on correct? Or the JMS Fuelmax activated by internal boost sensor?

About to order just want to make sure I have the right one or the easiest for plug and play.
Use the pedal sensor that comes with it. Plug and play.
 

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z06psi

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My question is does the pedal sensor come with both kits or is it specifically for one?
The internal boost one would require a hobbs switch or a line ran from the engine compartment.

The TPS one is what you want? Where are you buying it from? Talk to Beefcake first. Best price and you will get what you need the first time.
 

BrazukaV8

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About to install the jms BAP. Are the settings ok for a Paxton 91oct? The output voltage has to be 100 correct ? Anything else wrong with it?
image.jpg
 

zaquhree

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Just turn that other dial to the OTHER SIDE or else you'll be doing only 14.5v of boost to the BAP. Then save it with the first dip switch
 

BrazukaV8

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Just turn that other dial to the OTHER SIDE or else you'll be doing only 14.5v of boost to the BAP. Then save it with the first dip switch
Thanks for helping me. So how do I save it. Just flip the number 1 switch ?
 

zaquhree

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Yes the car needs to be on. You flip it down and it twinkles to save. Test your BAP by having the key ON and press the pedal with a long stick or have someone press it slowly and tell them to stop when you see it begin to blink, that'll tell you where voltage is ramping. Mine is slightly before half throttle so it is full ramp by 3/4 which is like 2.3v on the dial
 

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zaquhree

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Toothless

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I set mine to:

DS1 Off
DS2 Off (18v)
DS3 ON
DS4 ON
DS5 ON
2.4V trigger pot
100% voltage boost pot

Voltage should run 14 volts up to 2.39v on pedal switch
Pedal switch 2.4 volts voltage should start ramping up.
Pedal switch 4.2 volts and higher 18v.

My thinking was slower ramp on voltage and less volts (18v) should have less wear on pump windings over time. Plus I am on the edge of really needing more fuel with 11 psi on D1SC and 52# injectors.
 

MyYellowPony

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I am not used to this forum but am in a bind. i installed an f1a on my GT and id1300s and ngk plugs and jus bap. once all was installed the car cranks but won't fire up. any ideas? car fired after PC install. car fired after spark plugs and injectors. then once bap was installed it would not fire. *car has not been tuned yet. just started and checked for any leaks of any sort.
 

SolarFlare

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Was told by someone that has been working on higher powered GMs for a while now that you want the BAP to come on based on boost, that's the safest method according to him. He said that there are situations of high load/low pedal input that if going by the throttle the BAP won't be coming on but should be.
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