bobsled
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2018
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 23
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
- First Name
- Bob
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 GT350, 2007 F150
- Thread starter
- #1
This is for a non-B&O install in my GT350. As a recovering audiophile, my goal is to put together a nice system that looks stock for around $1,000. I am very pleased so far.
1) The short story: The JBL DSP 4086 is 40W x 8 at 4 ohms/60W x 8 at 2 ohms. I was concerned that it wouldn’t be loud enough. Could it be louder? Sure. But it’s louder than any stock system and CLEAN! For comparison, I measured stock amplifier voltage output at 7.95 volts with a 100hz tone at max volume, which is equivalent to about 16 watts per channel at 4 ohms. My unscientific guess is that the JBL DSP volume at about 2/3 is the same as full volume with the stock amp.
The rear speakers are very brassy that no DSP can correct. I replaced those immediately, and now the system sounds really good. I’m in the process of replacing the front speakers and a 10” JL Audio sub for the trunk (stay tuned for my box build).
3) Install: Follow these directions (thanks to @StangTime for the writeup).
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...premium-audio-systems-no-loc-required.159271/
It’s taller than the stock amp. I took two 2-inch strips of aluminum and bolted those to the stock amp bracket to hold the amp. I didn’t take a pic: See @Jaymar ’s solution that will give you an idea: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3449202
There is a small gap at the top after install, and very little room at the bottom, but you don’t need to cut the kick panel. It fits, but it will take some patience.
For remote turn on, I used the stock remote turn with a PAC-TR4 to convert it to 12v. The wiring is all there, and I am also using it to power my Valentine One (which means my V1 cycles on when I open the door). I ran the power cable from the battery through the fender, as most folks do, and you wouldn't know its there unless you pulled off the battery cover.
There is not a lot of room for the wires under the kick panel. I made the mistake of cutting the slack out of the wiring harness before install. That made the kick panel difficult to install. You will want to get the amp in place, then figure out how to route the wires behind the kick panel before trimming and bundling wires.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
1) The short story: The JBL DSP 4086 is 40W x 8 at 4 ohms/60W x 8 at 2 ohms. I was concerned that it wouldn’t be loud enough. Could it be louder? Sure. But it’s louder than any stock system and CLEAN! For comparison, I measured stock amplifier voltage output at 7.95 volts with a 100hz tone at max volume, which is equivalent to about 16 watts per channel at 4 ohms. My unscientific guess is that the JBL DSP volume at about 2/3 is the same as full volume with the stock amp.
- Pros: Clean sound, customizable DSP, fits in the factory amp location, and can use the factory speaker wiring. 8 channels. Shockingly clean sound with gains up and volume maxed.
- Cons: It can always be louder, but unlike high school, I don’t need to hear it across the street. I have to turn it down when I want to listen to the exhaust. The software was intuitive to me, but opinions vary. No preamp output – so my sub amp will have to accept high-level inputs. It is a tight fit in the factory amp location - tighter than I expected, but no cutting needed.
The rear speakers are very brassy that no DSP can correct. I replaced those immediately, and now the system sounds really good. I’m in the process of replacing the front speakers and a 10” JL Audio sub for the trunk (stay tuned for my box build).
3) Install: Follow these directions (thanks to @StangTime for the writeup).
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...premium-audio-systems-no-loc-required.159271/
It’s taller than the stock amp. I took two 2-inch strips of aluminum and bolted those to the stock amp bracket to hold the amp. I didn’t take a pic: See @Jaymar ’s solution that will give you an idea: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...o-systems-no-loc-required.159271/post-3449202
There is a small gap at the top after install, and very little room at the bottom, but you don’t need to cut the kick panel. It fits, but it will take some patience.
For remote turn on, I used the stock remote turn with a PAC-TR4 to convert it to 12v. The wiring is all there, and I am also using it to power my Valentine One (which means my V1 cycles on when I open the door). I ran the power cable from the battery through the fender, as most folks do, and you wouldn't know its there unless you pulled off the battery cover.
There is not a lot of room for the wires under the kick panel. I made the mistake of cutting the slack out of the wiring harness before install. That made the kick panel difficult to install. You will want to get the amp in place, then figure out how to route the wires behind the kick panel before trimming and bundling wires.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
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