Installing aftermarket tweeters

[jofivepointoh]

How did you fit the aftermarket tweeter into the Pilar? I looked through the forum but didn't find a how to guide. Help please! Im using the Polk Db6501

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[RevvdMedia]

I personally just used some black silicone as an adhesive. They've been holding up strong, can't really see the bead. I just held the tweeters in place while the silicone cured with some tape, took about 12 hrs to get a strong hold. If you need to remove them for some reason, just use a knife and cut the bead.

Some tweeters I have seen have a screw hole in the magnet, get a matching screw and use steel "strap" (thicker one) to use as bracket. Not sure if the magnet on the tweeter could hold it in place rather than a screw, probably not strong enough. Could use an adhesive between the steel strapping bracket and the tweeter magnet...

 

[wildcatgoal]

I have installed tweeters using automotive and even regular old craft hot glue from the back for years and of course drillout out the hole to the appropriate size... not a single one has ever threatened to come off.

If you want to put an new tweeter behind the OEM tweeter grill (no hole drilling) then I would create some kind of mount with plumbers tape (the metal tape with holes in it) and epoxy (two part epoxy... the good stuff) that to the backside of the A-pillar trim then cover area with dynamat-type material to keep the sound waves going where they need to be going. This is what I typically do in simple installs when the supplied mounting hardware doesn't work (which is usually ALWAYS... why they even provide it baffles me) - depends on the car, whatever solution works the best (that I know how to do, haha) is what I go with.

Usually I prefer to fiberglass the A-pillars. Hard, expensive, time consuming, but the stock tweeters are not pointed in the ideal direction. Want them I think in this car to point up a bit toward the center map lights or maybe toward opposite head rests. Haven't done testing yet for flattest response. But that's typical. Only time I'm okay to see tweeters point straight across or toward opposite front window is with big dashes (think deep dash, like a Chevy Volt or most Kia/Hundais) where the tweeter is kind of far from you. Tweeter-audible range is very directional. You notice it A LOT when the window is up or down in these cars - window up you get a lot of reflections and tweeters sound harsh. Not good, hard to tune out.

 

[jofivepointoh]

I personally just used some black silicone as an adhesive. They've been holding up strong, can't really see the bead. I just held the tweeters in place while the silicone cured with some tape, took about 12 hrs to get a strong hold. If you need to remove them for some reason, just use a knife and cut the bead.

Some tweeters I have seen have a screw hole in the magnet, get a matching screw and use steel "strap" (thicker one) to use as bracket. Not sure if the magnet on the tweeter could hold it in place rather than a screw, probably not strong enough. Could use an adhesive between the steel strapping bracket and the tweeter magnet...

Thanks dude.

 

[mumbles]

I have installed tweeters using automotive and even regular old craft hot glue from the back for years and of course drillout out the hole to the appropriate size... not a single one has ever threatened to come off.

You wouldn't happen to be sirBoom from diymobileaudio would you? ;)

 

[cthomp21]

I dremel'd out the hole and used the surface mount cup that came with the tweeters. I used a hot glue gun to fasten the surface mount cup to the back of the A-pillar. The tweeter then pops in from the front. You have to also dremel out the factory tweeter mounting plastic in the rear of the A-pillar.

 

[shelbywannabe]

I dremel'd out the hole and used the surface mount cup that came with the tweeters. I used a hot glue gun to fasten the surface mount cup to the back of the A-pillar. The tweeter then pops in from the front. You have to also dremel out the factory tweeter mounting plastic in the rear of the A-pillar.

Do they sound much better than stock ? I can barely hear the stock ones. Also did you just reuse the factory wiring to the new tweeter ?
Thanks in advance

 

[wildcatgoal]

You're not supposed to "hear" a tweeter. Supposed to blend. I assure you they're on and loud and harsh. Roll window down and up you'll hear the difference of their reflections.

 

[pumxee]

I dremel'd out the hole and used the surface mount cup that came with the tweeters. I used a hot glue gun to fasten the surface mount cup to the back of the A-pillar. The tweeter then pops in from the front. You have to also dremel out the factory tweeter mounting plastic in the rear of the A-pillar.

I'd like to know about the wiring aswell. I was thinking about getting the hertz HSK 165 and wanted to know if we can reuse the factory wiring and attach the supplied cross over.

 

[cthomp21]

I mounted the polk crossover in the door near the woofer and ran new wiring from the crossover through the Molex connector to the tweeter. The crossover is a vital piece to a component set and matched to its woofer and tweeter combo. The sound improvement is significant over stock, but it could really use some more power.

 

[shelbywannabe]

You're not supposed to "hear" a tweeter. Supposed to blend. I assure you they're on and loud and harsh. Roll window down and up you'll hear the difference of their reflections.

Compared to other sound systems I have had in cars, this one is the least adjustable for being Fords top of the line option. No equalizer options is ridiculous on their best stereo option in my opinion. I just simply get no highs out of this stereo compared to others. Thats what I meant. Windows up or down makes no difference, just muffled, lacks clarity for a stereo we paid extra for.

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