For starters, cutting/trimming the rear panel of the back of the OEM radio that is stripped to put together the new radio. Didn't want to mess up my OEM stuff, so I just sent it back. Not sure how fitment would be in the car, but it came with another whole ACM (audio control module).
No, I didn't try the Phoenix PX6 radio. I was watching all of the threads. The quality issues they seemed to be having with an early batch dissuaded me from buying one (especially at $900-ish). With my luck, I'd end up with a repackaged 1st batch malfunctioning radio. There didn't seem to be...
I tried a couple of different replacements for the 4" Base Radio in my 2015 Mustang. First, I tried a Rosen FIT-MT15 a few years ago, but it was malfunctioning immediately after installing. So, I sent it back. A few months ago I tried out one of the ZWNAV Android Android units. I was never...
Agreed. $599 is very high. A Sync 3 swap from Hextall is the better value when choosing between those two.
I just wish I could find the forscan settings to enable SiriusXM with a compatible ACM. Somebody tried the swap on a post here somewhere but couldn't get it working. You can get a...
Did you click on the link? A Sync 3 swap is not the only way to get SiriusXM on a factory radio.
Here's a video showing the base radio using SiriusXM:
I would take note that infotainment.com only shows compatibility for the 2015 through 2018 Mustang. I'm not 100% sure that their kit would...
The antenna connection is on the back of the Audio Control Module (ACM) - the box that houses the CD player. It is a new style of antenna connection though (maybe a FAKRA connection).
You can always replace your ACM with one that can support SiriusXM. It's kind of costly though...
Well, that head unit is surely interesting. Desoldering the knobs have prevented me from getting the 10.4" android head unit.
The price is definitely off-putting - should be in the $350 neighborhood
Looks like it's running Android 4.4.4 - kind of old, would prefer 6.x
Shows an "AUX-Out" -...
Search moddiction, raxiom, rosen, sintegrate - same head unit with slightly different flavors of operating system. Lots and lots of discussion. Moddiction is probably the best choice based on the price and the "Sync 3 look" interface.
Yes, they sound quite good.
I ditched the plastic adapter ring and used the old speakers with cones cut out as the mounting points along with sound deadening on the rear deck and foam weatherstrip to eliminate any air gaps. Leaks around the speaker will severely impact its bass response. My...
After changing out all of my speakers with Polk dB's (components up front and coaxials in the rear deck), my car became nearly undriveable. The drone coming from the speakers was unbearable. I pulled the #27 fuse with no results, so I put it back in. I then disconnected the rear mic, and all...
I ran speaker wire from my Polk crossover mounted in the door to the tweeter through the molex connector. I used some very small gauge wire and drilled through some unused spots on each side of the molex connector. Was a big pain in the a$$, but my wiring is protected and looks factory.
Yep, disconnect the microphone. You unhook it where it connects. Peek under the headliner when sitting in the back seat. It'll come down when applying a little force (held in place with a couple of magnets).
That drone after replacing my speakers was intense and terrible. I can't imagine...
You'll definitely get some mid-bass from the rears. The stock speakers are pretty lacking in the mid-bass area from what I remember.
You can also work up on using some install "tricks" on your focals up front to make them a bit more punchy. In addition to sound deadening around the woofers...
Bridged/unbridged shouldn't make a difference on sound quality. Bridging 2 channels let's the amp produce more power. Assuming you've got an ohm load from your speakers that the amp can handle (going too low may overheat your amp or cause other problems), your speakers will be getting more...
A good installation is a huge factor when replacing speakers. The front and rear soundwaves from the woofer need to be separated as much as possible. You also need a solid/damped surface, or the speaker's kinetic energy will be dissipated elsewhere as rattles/vibration/heat rather than sound...
I'd agree. I'd even consider using just the head unit to power the rears with the pluto to drive the fronts. Get some good component speakers up front, and you'll be really happy with them. Coaxials [usually] can't compete with component speakers with a good crossover system.