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TEXAS HEAT

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[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Our standard tunes are ready for the mods you have, so the PN 2000 will work like a champ.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Do note that if your high-flow catted downpipe sets O2 sensor codes with a stock tune it will do the same with our tunes. Because we are emissions legal, we cannot disable those codes with our tuning.[/FONT][/FONT]
I don't see an option to raise idle rpm... was the idle raised in the provided tunes? Much like the Mazdaspeed, the PCV system is marginal at best and results in excessive smoke at idle when you open up the exhaust.
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S550ilver

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I don't see an option to raise idle rpm... was the idle raised in the provided tunes? Much like the Mazdaspeed, the PCV system is marginal at best and results in excessive smoke at idle when you open up the exhaust.
From Hypertech's Tuning Manager...

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Good question! Although we did mod our test vehicle with full exhaust and high flow catted downpipe we didn't see any issues with smoke at idle. We spent several months tuning this car, but we may not have had the time with the mods to notice the idle smoke issue you're mentioning. Raising the idle would decrease the vacuum which would decrease the effectiveness of the PCV system. I can see how that would be a bandaid fix for the smoking, but the real issue is that the engine is ingesting oil and water vapor that creates smoke in the exhaust. That won't be necessarily be fixed by raising the idle. A more permanent solution would be to add a catch can to separate the oil from the PCV return to the intake. I see that you have the UPR DVCC and their breather cap as well. I would assume that these fixed the smoke issue on your car unless you have a damaged turbo. Checking shaft play on the turbo, and for oil residue in the charge piping would verify that the turbo is okay.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Another thing to note is that you will get condensation vapors coming out of the exhaust when the engine and exhaust piping are cool. This is much more noticeable with a high flow cat or catless downpipe. That should stop once the engine and exhaust piping is warm though. I'm sure you know this, but figured it was worth mentioning for anyone else who is curious.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]On a related note, our MazdaSpeed 3 tunes do allow those vehicles to adjust the idle speed, but that was only to eliminate the resonance of the engine inside the vehicle. We didn't see that issue with the EcoBoost Mustang, so we didn't include the option in the ME2.0. I'm not against offering the option, but I'm not sure that's the right fix for a PCV issue. [/FONT][/FONT]
 

Cobra Jet

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We've actually been around for 32 years, since 1986. I'm the Creative Director there and have our tune on my 16 GT...and I love it. I unfortunately can't answer any of your technical questions, I'd rather leave that to our technical support department. BUT if you have any, you can email our tech support at [email protected]. One of the features in the Max Energy 2.0 is THROTTLE RESPONSE, mine is set to our TRACK option and it really is a night and day difference.
Glad you’re on the site and appreciate the very detailed responses from the Tuning Manager!

You also beat me to the punch... I was also going to reply that if anyone on this site was around during the original Mustang “5.0” movement, meaning, the introduction of the EFI 5.0 H.O. in the 1986 Mustang, you would have already known that Hypertech was THE pioneer and first to bring the “tuning chip” to the Mustang platform. Hypertech was also very well known on the largest Mustang website of the time period on www.corral.net (where I’m still a member today).

Hypertech is not new to the game and they are familiar with Ford’s PCM factory tunes and can (and have) offered varieties of safe aftermarket tunes for the Mustang platform for MANY years.

I’ve owned 20 Mustangs now (including my 94 Cobra and my 2018 EB); the majority of my ownership was the Fox Body (79-93) - and I had the original Hypertech chip in my prior 1986 GT as well as 1992 GT. Sure now there are a slew of offerings on the market, but as stated Hypertech was the Tuner chip of the times for those staying N/A, it worked with subtle mods and without fear of blowing up the engine. :)

————
So here’s my questions:

1) Is there any such offering for the 2018 EB yet? If not, anything in development for the 2018 EB with a proposed ETA?

2) If the Hypertech unit is installed - does it leave any trace once removed if the user needs to take the vehicle in for warranty work? Trace meaning, would Ford be able to see any key/ignition cycle changes in the PCM data logs? This has been discussed by many regarding the “other” Tuners, in which in the event of a failed engine, Ford is able to determine if the engine had an aftermarket tune at some point by viewing the ignition/key cycle data which can be compared to prior service visits (if any).

3) This question may tie into #1 above: With the introduction of the new 10R80 for the 2018 models, has the shift mapping also been improved upon for both D and S driving modes?

4) This question may tie into #3: The 2018’s with the analog dash cluster and 10R80 - the gear # selected will only display if in “D” or “S” mode AND the driver is using the paddle shifters. If the car is in D or S and is auto shifting itself (ie: driver has NOT touched or initiated manual shifting), the gear # will not stay visible in the cluster. Can your Hypertech device modify the shift strategy AND display the gear # at all times in the analog cluster? Based on what I have read and know about the 2018 digital cluster, it does show the trans gear at all times.

5) Would you be willing to be transparent enough to let us know what other aftermarket components where on your subject EB test vehicle during the development, dyno runs and finalization of the Hypertech device? Meaning like exhaust, CAI, etc? Also were you testing using the base EB platform or the EB w/PP platform?

6) Do you have a 2018 EB test subject?

7) Does the device come with free software updates? Or once the device is purchased, there would not be any further updates?
 
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Can I use E30 with the 93+ tune?
 

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S550ilver

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Glad you’re on the site and appreciate the very detailed responses from the Tuning Manager!

You also beat me to the punch... I was also going to reply that if anyone on this site was around during the original Mustang “5.0” movement, meaning, the introduction of the EFI 5.0 H.O. in the 1986 Mustang, you would have already known that Hypertech was THE pioneer and first to bring the “tuning chip” to the Mustang platform. Hypertech was also very well known on the largest Mustang website of the time period on www.corral.net (where I’m still a member today).

Hypertech is not new to the game and they are familiar with Ford’s PCM factory tunes and can (and have) offered varieties of safe aftermarket tunes for the Mustang platform for MANY years.

I’ve owned 20 Mustangs now (including my 94 Cobra and my 2018 EB); the majority of my ownership was the Fox Body (79-93) - and I had the original Hypertech chip in my prior 1986 GT as well as 1992 GT. Sure now there are a slew of offerings on the market, but as stated Hypertech was the Tuner chip of the times for those staying N/A, it worked with subtle mods and without fear of blowing up the engine. :)

————
So here’s my questions:

1) Is there any such offering for the 2018 EB yet? If not, anything in development for the 2018 EB with a proposed ETA?

2) If the Hypertech unit is installed - does it leave any trace once removed if the user needs to take the vehicle in for warranty work? Trace meaning, would Ford be able to see any key/ignition cycle changes in the PCM data logs? This has been discussed by many regarding the “other” Tuners, in which in the event of a failed engine, Ford is able to determine if the engine had an aftermarket tune at some point by viewing the ignition/key cycle data which can be compared to prior service visits (if any).

3) This question may tie into #1 above: With the introduction of the new 10R80 for the 2018 models, has the shift mapping also been improved upon for both D and S driving modes?

4) This question may tie into #3: The 2018’s with the analog dash cluster and 10R80 - the gear # selected will only display if in “D” or “S” mode AND the driver is using the paddle shifters. If the car is in D or S and is auto shifting itself (ie: driver has NOT touched or initiated manual shifting), the gear # will not stay visible in the cluster. Can your Hypertech device modify the shift strategy AND display the gear # at all times in the analog cluster? Based on what I have read and know about the 2018 digital cluster, it does show the trans gear at all times.

5) Would you be willing to be transparent enough to let us know what other aftermarket components where on your subject EB test vehicle during the development, dyno runs and finalization of the Hypertech device? Meaning like exhaust, CAI, etc? Also were you testing using the base EB platform or the EB w/PP platform?

6) Do you have a 2018 EB test subject?

7) Does the device come with free software updates? Or once the device is purchased, there would not be any further updates?
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]1) We don't have tuning for the 2018 Mustangs, but we will be working on those soon. We just wrapped up the tuning for the F150 3.5LEB and the 5.0L tuning should be finalized next week. These will take a few weeks to get put into our Programmer with all of the options, Alpha tested, and then Beta tested. I suspect those will roll out in a month or so. In the meantime we'll be cranking on the Mustangs![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]2) If you uninstall the ME2.0 tuning it will put in the ORIGINAL tune that was read out of your car/truck. Not all companies do this. Some will only store a single factory tune and return them all to that calibration regardless of what was actually in the ECU from the factory. There are many reasons that is not a good solution, but that's their problem, not mine. In the end though, there's always a way(s) for Ford to know that you had a tune in the vehicle. If our customer is asked by the dealership if they had a tune in it we advise them to be honest. Yes, you had a tune in it. You have a Hypertech tune. You chose us because we've been around for over 30 years, and have a history of making great tunes without causing damage to people's cars. That honesty goes a long way with people, and that's how we like to approach things.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]3) We have spent a lot of time calibrating the new 10 speed auto, and I'll just say that I'm leaving work today with a big grin on my face after driving the 2018 F150 5.0L stock tune and our tune back to back. Of course the power is nice, but that thing drives WAYYYYY better. I expect the same results in the Mustangs, so we'll keep you posted![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]4) On the F150, we're seeing that if you touch the up/down shift button once the gear # shows up and stays displayed on the analog dash. This resets after a key cycle. We'll look into on the Mustangs, but right now I don't know enough to answer your question any further. We'll see what we can do though![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]5) At the bottom of post #8 we put the link our dyno charts. If you open that up and scroll down to the second graph page you'll see the list of parts that we tested with. This included our 93+MAX tuning, an AIRAID Cold Air Dam Air Intake, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler Kit, Mishimoto Downpipe with High Flow Cat, and a Magnaflow Competition Series Cat-Back Exhaust. We really appreciate working with all of these companies, and loved the added performance and quality of all of their parts. Plus, they're all cool people to work with.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]6) We welcome people who are willing to go the extra mile in our Beta Testing program. If you participate we will have a complete testing form to fill out which will ask you to verify all of the offered options are working correctly. We will also welcome your feedback on the product as well. If you would like the opportunity to participate, please fill out the Product Request form on our website. [/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]2018 2.3L EB request form...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]http://209.12.144.7/requests.php?year=2018&make=Ford&model=Mustang&submodel=NA&engine=2.3L+FI+GAS+H&trans=Auto[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Make sure to fill in the comments with your screen name, and forum name so we can keep track of you in our system. When we are ready to Beta test we'll probably be in touch![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]For anyone other vehicles, here's the general request form link...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]http://209.12.144.7/requests.php[/FONT][/FONT]
 

Cobra Jet

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[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]1) We don't have tuning for the 2018 Mustangs, but we will be working on those soon. We just wrapped up the tuning for the F150 3.5LEB and the 5.0L tuning should be finalized next week. These will take a few weeks to get put into our Programmer with all of the options, Alpha tested, and then Beta tested. I suspect those will roll out in a month or so. In the meantime we'll be cranking on the Mustangs![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]2) If you uninstall the ME2.0 tuning it will put in the ORIGINAL tune that was read out of your car/truck. Not all companies do this. Some will only store a single factory tune and return them all to that calibration regardless of what was actually in the ECU from the factory. There are many reasons that is not a good solution, but that's their problem, not mine. In the end though, there's always a way(s) for Ford to know that you had a tune in the vehicle. If our customer is asked by the dealership if they had a tune in it we advise them to be honest. Yes, you had a tune in it. You have a Hypertech tune. You chose us because we've been around for over 30 years, and have a history of making great tunes without causing damage to people's cars. That honesty goes a long way with people, and that's how we like to approach things.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]3) We have spent a lot of time calibrating the new 10 speed auto, and I'll just say that I'm leaving work today with a big grin on my face after driving the 2018 F150 5.0L stock tune and our tune back to back. Of course the power is nice, but that thing drives WAYYYYY better. I expect the same results in the Mustangs, so we'll keep you posted![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]4) On the F150, we're seeing that if you touch the up/down shift button once the gear # shows up and stays displayed on the analog dash. This resets after a key cycle. We'll look into on the Mustangs, but right now I don't know enough to answer your question any further. We'll see what we can do though![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]5) At the bottom of post #8 we put the link our dyno charts. If you open that up and scroll down to the second graph page you'll see the list of parts that we tested with. This included our 93+MAX tuning, an AIRAID Cold Air Dam Air Intake, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler Kit, Mishimoto Downpipe with High Flow Cat, and a Magnaflow Competition Series Cat-Back Exhaust. We really appreciate working with all of these companies, and loved the added performance and quality of all of their parts. Plus, they're all cool people to work with.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]6) We welcome people who are willing to go the extra mile in our Beta Testing program. If you participate we will have a complete testing form to fill out which will ask you to verify all of the offered options are working correctly. We will also welcome your feedback on the product as well. If you would like the opportunity to participate, please fill out the Product Request form on our website. [/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]2018 2.3L EB request form...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]http://209.12.144.7/requests.php?year=2018&make=Ford&model=Mustang&submodel=NA&engine=2.3L+FI+GAS+H&trans=Auto[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Make sure to fill in the comments with your screen name, and forum name so we can keep track of you in our system. When we are ready to Beta test we'll probably be in touch![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]For anyone other vehicles, here's the general request form link...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]http://209.12.144.7/requests.php[/FONT][/FONT]
To both of the Hypertech guys -

Awesome “Tech” support as well as taking the time to answer not only my questions, but others as well. I also appreciate the transparency, AND the extremely detailed responses to those questions, because that alone goes a very long way!

Please do keep us posted on the A10 trans findings.

Maybe the F150’s have a different strategy for displaying the selected gear in the analog cluster? I can certainly confirm that with my prior 2016 EB Prem. w/PP and 6R80 and my current 2018 EB Prem. w/PP and 10R80, with the analog clusters, when either trans was left alone to auto shift itself up or down, the gear is not displayed at all. So the driver has no idea what gear the trans is in when NOT manually using the paddles to shift. Even in “D” with both the 6R80 and the 10R80, when manually selecting a gear, it’s only displayed briefly in the cluster and then disappears.

If in “D” and the driver touches either paddle to shift, yes, the selected gear is displayed BUT as stated, only briefly and will disappear from the cluster if the trans auto up shifts or auto downshifts; the gear will only reappear in the cluster again if the driver touches either paddle again.

If in “S” mode on either trans (again w/ analog cluster) and the driver manually shifts via the paddles, the selected gear will stay displayed in the cluster until the driver elects to shift up or down. In this manual mode, the selected gear remains displayed until either the car is turned off OR the driver puts the auto gear selector back into “D”, at which point the displayed gear disappears from the cluster.

Thanks a lot fellas; not only for answering my questions, but I’m sure others reading this thread will also benefit from your info and very detailed responses regarding your Programmer for the EB Mustang platform.
 

S550ilver

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Understood.
CustomS550, here is the answer to your PM you sent me...We wanted to leave it open here for others to see as well....I hope this answers your question(s) you sent me....

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Question: Why doesn't the Hypertech tune hold boost, and keep the throttle wide open during Full Throttle to redline?[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]I realize this goes against conventional wisdom for tuning cars, so give me a chance to explain why we didn't tune this car to do that. If you'll give me the benefit of the doubt that we didn't just spend 2 months tuning this car like total morons, there is probably a [/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]First, let me tackle the throttle closing conundrum. When we started tuning the EcoBoost Mustang we recognized that the throttle was closing during the dyno pulls. We assumed that this meant there was power to be had by manipulating the calibration to force the throttle to stay open. What we discovered was that the power difference was almost negligible. We had a few discussions about this, and realized that the airflow is under pressure and thus a throttle body that would be too small for a naturally aspirated engine is clearly fine under boost. But we didn't want to disregard the idea that full throttle is best, so we saved that tune to compare with on the street. When we hit the street we compared partially open throttle, and the wide open throttle and found that they felt the same at wide open throttle, but drivability was much better on the partially closed throttle tune. [/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]The reason for this goes back to the torque model. All of the engine controls are based on the torque model; power, economy, traction control, transient power, boost response, etc. If the torque model is wrong then the drivability and controls suffer from these inaccuracies. We came back to this when we added FMIC, piping, air intake, downpipe, and exhaust, and saw the same results. The throttle not being wide open isn't a restriction, and allows for linear power delivery because the torque model is correct. This really becomes evident when you drive the car with these altering methods back to back.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Now let's dive into the boost curve. What do most car guys say when you tell them you're Mustang is turbocharged? Almost without exception it's "How much boost are you running?" If you've ever looked at the stock boost curve on the EcoBoost Mustang you'd have a difficult answer because it comes up in the lower RPMs and then slowly drops towards redline. We've seen similar curves on just about every boosted gasoline engine we've tune over the years. We dug into this in detail when we tuned the Mazdaspeed 3, and it made us rethink what thought we knew. The problem is we were thinking about the engine, and not about the turbocharger. Everybody knows that the engine is and air pump. It sucks in 2.3L of air every 2 revolutions. Yah, yah, yah. But how much air is the turbocharger pumping? If you've ever dug into turbo chargers you've seen a compressor map which shows you the efficiency of the turbo in relation to airflow and outlet pressure. These maps all have shaft speed lines on them, and those lines drop sharply as the airflow reaches the maximum of the compressor. That's to say that if you hold a steady boost level and keep increasing the airflow the shaft speed will increase dramatically. So, the reason the stock boost curve starts high, and then drops off is to maintain the turbocharger shaft speed. If you want the turbo to live, this is how you have to tune them![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Another thing we've found is that a partially closed throttle near redline helps boost response after the shift. With the throttle fully open there is no resistance to the turbocharger, and the boost curve is maintained by wastegate alone. By adding a little resistance the wastegate can response quicker to the post-shift boost level because it doesn't have to move as far. Plus, after the shift the throttle can open up and the turbo can bring in the lower RPM boost much quicker without overspeeding.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]<<see pic for this part>>[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]When we tuned the EcoBoost Mustang on our dyno we outfitted it with extra thermocouples and pressure sensors and datalogged those on the dyno during pulls. We measured IATs and Boost out of the turbo (pre-FMIC) and after the intercooler (post-FMIC). This let us monitor the efficiency of the turbo and the intercooler to determine the optimal boost curve to provide power without shortening the longevity of the turbocharger.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]You can see that the IAT - pre FMIC (aka post turbo) curve is almost totally flat. This tells us that the turbocharger is running a steady speed. Notice that the air temps out of the turbocharger are climbing to 290F by redline! The resulting boost curve at the engine (post FMIC) is relatively flat until about 5700RPM which correlates to around peak HP. After peak HP the turbo engine's mechanically increasing airflow (aka RPM) causes the boost curve to drop from here to redline because if finally wants more airflow than the turbo can provide without destroying itself. Remember, boost is just a measure of resistance to the airflow provided by the turbocharger. To hold boost steady above 5700RPM the turbo would have to increase the shaft speed tremendously! The result would be shorter turbo life, and less efficiency. Those IATs out of the turbo would skyrocket with 20PSI at redline. Yes, an upgraded intercooler will knock the temps down, but it won't keep the turbo from overspeeding. Speaking of the intercooler, do note that the IATs out of FMIC are much better on the road where there's much more airflow than possible on the dyno.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]I know that's a lot, but I wanted to shine some light onto why our tune is doing what it's doing. On the surface it may not fit the standard mold for a tune, but there is a lot of work and outside the box thinking going on to develop what we have. It took us over 300 tunes to get it right for the Max Energy 2.0, so we tried a LOT of stuff to figure this all out. That's not to say that everybody else is doing it wrong though. The ECUs in these cars are very complicated, and there are lots of smart guys with happy customers making tunes for these cars. I am not here to downplay anybody else's tunes or their methods. I'm just telling you what we did, and what makes sense from what we saw along the way. I don't assume we have the only right answer. We learn more every time we tune a new vehicle which is great for our customers and fans. We loved tuning the EcoBoost Mustang, and hope you love what we've done to make you enjoy your car even more! [/FONT][/FONT]
ecoboost_mustang_boost_explain2.jpg
 
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CustomS550

CustomS550

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Thank you, fellas, for the wealth of information. By no means was I questioning your ability as a tuning enterprise, and I think that there's a misunderstandings here. I see that the above graph shows post-FMIC boost pressures of around 20-17 psi, however in my case the turbo shows nowhere near the pressure numbers as the graph above. I only see a max of around 17 psi as a spike if I full throttle below 4k rpm, then it falls down to around 14-16 psi for the rest of the rpm range. Everything else, like the throttle response improvement and the part throttle fuel enrichment are working as advertised. I did about 10 different full throttle pulls, and have gotten the same results over and over. I tried the previous tuner to make sure that there isn't a fault with a sensor or two in my engine, and right away the pressures were holding strong and flat @ 20psi all the way to 6k rpm, and the rear tires breaking loose in second and third gears (wet pavement) :)

Thank you!
 
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TEXAS HEAT

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From Hypertech's Tuning Manager...

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Good question! Although we did mod our test vehicle with full exhaust and high flow catted downpipe we didn't see any issues with smoke at idle. We spent several months tuning this car, but we may not have had the time with the mods to notice the idle smoke issue you're mentioning. Raising the idle would decrease the vacuum which would decrease the effectiveness of the PCV system. I can see how that would be a bandaid fix for the smoking, but the real issue is that the engine is ingesting oil and water vapor that creates smoke in the exhaust. That won't be necessarily be fixed by raising the idle. A more permanent solution would be to add a catch can to separate the oil from the PCV return to the intake. I see that you have the UPR DVCC and their breather cap as well. I would assume that these fixed the smoke issue on your car unless you have a damaged turbo. Checking shaft play on the turbo, and for oil residue in the charge piping would verify that the turbo is okay.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Another thing to note is that you will get condensation vapors coming out of the exhaust when the engine and exhaust piping are cool. This is much more noticeable with a high flow cat or catless downpipe. That should stop once the engine and exhaust piping is warm though. I'm sure you know this, but figured it was worth mentioning for anyone else who is curious.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]On a related note, our MazdaSpeed 3 tunes do allow those vehicles to adjust the idle speed, but that was only to eliminate the resonance of the engine inside the vehicle. We didn't see that issue with the EcoBoost Mustang, so we didn't include the option in the ME2.0. I'm not against offering the option, but I'm not sure that's the right fix for a PCV issue. [/FONT][/FONT]
Thank you for the detailed response. I have not upgraded the downpipe on my vehicle so I haven't personally experienced the smoking at idle issues that I mentioned. I do know of several other forum members past and present that have had the issue.

Yes, the DVCC and crankcase breather I use does help to mitigate oil vapor ingression into the combustion chamber, however the pressure delta across the turbine/compressor at stock idle rpm when a downpipe is installed allows seepage of oil directly into the exhaust, not via the combustion chamber. This excessive oil burns off inside of the exhaust piping and generates quite a bit of smoke at idle once warmed up. Raising the idle has been proven to be an effective solution to this issue. I think having an idle adjustment capability would be a desired feature, much like it was on the Mazdaspeed.
 

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S550ilver

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Thank you, fellas, for the wealth of information. By no means was I questioning your ability as a tuning enterprise, and I think that there's a mis misunderstandings here. I see that the above graph shows post-FMIC boost pressures of around 20-17 psi, however in my case the turbo shows nowhere near the pressure numbers as the graph above. I only see a max of around 17 psi as a spike if I full throttle below 4k rpm, then it falls down to around 14-16 psi for the rest of the rpm range. Everything else, like the throttle response improvement and the part throttle fuel enrichment are working as advertised. I did about 10 different full throttle pulls, and have gotten the same results over and over. I tried the previous tuner (w/ an aftermarket downpipe specific 91-octane tune) to make sure that there isn't a fault with a sensor or two in my engine, and right away the pressures were holding strong and flat @ 20psi all the way to 6k rpm, and the rear tires breaking loose in second and third gears (wet pavement) :) I also tried the stock tune for good measures and was seeing exactly the same boost curve as the Hypertech, which leads me to assume that the issue is with the downpipe (200 cell cat. w/ about twice the flow of Mishimoto's) / wastegate management at sea level elevations here in NJ. I'd be happy to data log specific parameters you'd need to help me figure this out to the extent of Torque Pro's ability. I can also install the factory downpipe for testing purposes, if need be. Just let me know!

Thank you!
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]It does appear that your boost is lower than we saw on the dyno. The picture in the above post was a datalog from the car with full mods, so we would expect you to have similar results. There are several possible causes and solution since we're dealing with mods. Let's dig into this via PM, and then post back here once we have a definite answer. Thanks for working with us![/FONT][/FONT]
 

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So, has anyone purchased/installed this tune?

Interested as an alternative to the FP ProCal tune.
 

S550ilver

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So, has anyone purchased/installed this tune?

Interested as an alternative to the FP ProCal tune.
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Just an FYI, our Power Programmer has a 30-day money back guarantee. That way you can try it out and return it if you aren't happy with it, or just thought better of spending the cash on mods right now. Either way, we want you to be a customer that comes back to us in the future. We treat our customers like family, not a sale.[/FONT][/FONT]
 

ewitz

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[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Just an FYI, our Power Programmer has a 30-day money back guarantee. That way you can try it out and return it if you aren't happy with it, or just thought better of spending the cash on mods right now. Either way, we want you to be a customer that comes back to us in the future. We treat our customers like family, not a sale.[/FONT][/FONT]
Are you offering any discounts/promo codes for forum members?
 

S550ilver

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[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]From Hypertech's Tuning Manager...

I want to say thanks to Mustang6g member "CustomS550" for working with us recently to ensure that our tuning is up to snuff. As he mentioned above it didn't appear that the boost on his 2015 EcoBoost Mustang was where we expected it to be. We pulled the tune from his Max Energy 2.0 remotely and saw that we had in fact left out some tuning changes on the manual transmission calibrations. We got in a 2017 EBM MT locally, and verified that the power was low. We fixed the tune, drove the car again, and knew right away this fixed the issue! We immediately setup an update for
[/FONT]
[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]"CustomS550"[/FONT][/FONT] to verify all was well on his car as well. Initial impression was that this tune is much better, and he's going to report back further after the weekend. We went ahead and setup an update for all Max Energy 2.0 Power Programmers, so anyone who updates will get the latest and greatest tunes. The affected all of the "MAX" tunes for 87, 89, 91, and 93+. The ECON tunes are not affected, and the automatic trans Mustangs are not affected.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif] [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif] Thanks again for the help [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Times New Roman,serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]"CustomS550"[/FONT][/FONT]. You not only helped us, but also anyone else who gets an ME2.0 for their manual trans EcoBoost Mustang. Thanks![/FONT][/FONT]
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