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Bluemustang

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Great thread! I have a 2015 and have a similar build thread and goal.
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Howitzer

Howitzer

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New Grill and Front Lip

Back when I re-did my front grill to a custom mesh.
Top is cutout OEM GT grill with gloss black diamond mesh and bottom is the OEM grill from the premium model with black diamond mesh behind.
Mesh used was from Customcargrills.com 12in. x 48in. Diamond XXL Grill.

And installed an AFE air scoop behind the grill (connects direct from the grill intake to the air box). That's what that logo is behind the grill on the driver-side.

Installed the performance pack rock guard (mentioned earlier) and front lip around the same time. These pics show off that front lip more.


IMG_20230326_161010.jpg

IMG_20230506_182013.jpg

IMG_20230506_182026.jpg


What that scoop funnels to (does it help? I can't really tell to be honest, but...doesn't hurt and I had the bumper off for other reasons):
IMG_20230326_161040.jpg
 
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Howitzer

Howitzer

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GT500 Valve Covers
Also: Ford Performance VCT Solenoids and new spark plugs.


Installed GT500 valve covers and changed the VCT solenoids while I was in there. Hopefully now I can stop sucking up oil through the driver side PCV on hard cornering (luckily getting caught with the driver side catch-can).

Internal differences on driver-side covers:
Not to mention the covers actually have all the bolt holes...still such an odd decision on the stock covers.
IMG_20240609_162424.jpg


Internal (with new VCT solenoids):
I did notice some (what I would consider) odd wear/discoloration on some of the cam lobes. However...I've had the car for pretty much its entire life and never any metal shavings in the oil. I did an oil change after this as well and even cut open the oil filter - not a single sign of any metal shavings anywhere. The cam lobes themselves are super smooth too. So I'm just going to chalk this up to normal wear and nothing's wrong. Anyone who may have any insight otherwise, let me know though.

IMG_20240609_155555.jpg

IMG_20240609_155538.jpg

IMG_20240526_182431.jpg


Painted Coil Covers and Installed:
IMG_20240609_185736.jpg

IMG_20240609_185754.jpg


Spark Plugs:
Stock motorcraft with stock gaps
Almost 55k currently on engine.

Old plugs:

IMG_20240625_205233.jpg
 

MrMike

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Internal (with new VCT solenoids):
I did notice some (what I would consider) odd wear/discoloration on some of the cam lobes. However...I've had the car for pretty much its entire life and never any metal shavings in the oil. I did an oil change after this as well and even cut open the oil filter - not a single sign of any metal shavings anywhere. The cam lobes themselves are super smooth too. So I'm just going to chalk this up to normal wear and nothing's wrong. Anyone who may have any insight otherwise, let me know though.

IMG_20240609_155555.jpg

IMG_20240609_155538.jpg

IMG_20240526_182431.jpg
The rule of thumb I was taught was if your fingernail catches, you have a problem. Dunno if that's still correct on a more advanced engine like the Coyote.
 

GJarrett

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I really wish they [Kumho Ecsta v730] came in 18s. I really love the tire myself.
... they DO come in 18s. I'm considering buying a set of 275/35r18s when I wear out my Firehawks, but haven't learned yet if they last very long.
 

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... they DO come in 18s. I'm considering buying a set of 275/35r18s when I wear out my Firehawks, but haven't learned yet if they last very long.
They do but not in wider sizes unfortunately. The V730s last a bit. Maybe not as long as Conti ECFs but definitely longer than others
 

SBR70.3

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So...here we are. Nearly 8 years since I've had this car, I guess now is a good a time as any to finally make a build thread.

2015 Mustang GT Base
Street/Track - more track than street these days

Modifications
Suspension:
BMR SP083 handling springs
FRPP track shocks/struts,
MMR Camber plates
Steeda front lateral control arms
Steeda IRS braces
Steeda IRS alignment dowels
BMR rear adjustable toe links
BMR rear vertical links
lower k brace (PP1 car part)
strut tower and cowl brace (PP1 car part)

Powertrain:
2021 ported intake manifold with IMRC lockouts
18+ injen air intake with restrictor cutout for 120mm MAF
JLT oil separator (driver and passenger side)
Texas Speed longtube headers with GESI G-Sport UHO cats
MBRP Street catback w/ H pipe - full 3" from headers
MGW shifter w/ flatstick handle
Exedy Mach 500 clutch
3.55 Torsen differential and driveshaft from 2021 donor car
Whiteline diff bushing inserts KDT-934 w/ upgraded BMR hardware

Dyno tuned by Luis Ortiz
Auto-Blip module (for mostly rev-match downshifts)
GT500 Valve Covers

Brakes/Wheels+
Front Brembo brakes from PP car
Vorshlag air deflectors
PP Belly pan with brake ducts

Brake Pads - Carbotech XP12 front / XP10 Rear (track)
Ford Racing Performance front Hubs w/ ARP Extended Studs
Monster Open Lugs - Black Chrome
MRR M350 Wheels 19x10 square (street - 285/35/19)
LMR SVE 350R wheels 19x11 ET50 square (track - 305/30/19)
25mm APEX front slip on spacers (track)


Interior:
Android 10.2" radio
Premium dash trim and light-up door sills
JBL 609C Speakers
Revesol Flat Bottom Steering Wheel - Matte Carbon, leather, silver stitch

Exterior:
Cutout OEM upper grill with black diamond mesh
OEM lower grill from premium car with black diamond mesh behind openings
AFE air scoop behind grill to intake

Trackspec Side Vents
MMD Rear Spoiler - Matte black
PP front lip spoiler
I am late to this party and want to say you have a beautiful car. Could you give me details on the auto-blip module?
 
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Howitzer

Howitzer

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I am late to this party and want to say you have a beautiful car. Could you give me details on the auto-blip module?
Hey! Thank you! Sure -

So it's a configurable module that connects to your brake, throttle and clutch sensors to give you something close to an actual rev-match downshift. Install wasn't too bad but you do have to splice into those wires which are above the pedals. I opted to use "Posi-Tap" connectors to do so(for a more reliable connection) and not use the supplied connectors.

It then works when you are on the brakes and then you clutch-in, you get a throttle blip. If you clutch-in first, then brake - no blip. And you can turn it off if you don't want to use it. I only turn mine on when on track.

Mine's been great so far - never an issue. Does what I want it to do and allows me to get consistent smooth downshifts without using heel-toe.

This is their install instructions if you're interested: https://www.auto-blip.com/pdf/2015+_Mustang_v1_1.pdf
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