How to prep paint for clear bar?

[Rypkr937]

I'm planning on getting a clear bra installed on my hood, front end, and fenders. Since it's going to seal in the paint underneath I want to make sure it's 10/10 before it goes on or I'll never be able to get a great shine out of it.

What type of process should be followed prior to having this install done and what products would some of the pro's around here recommend?

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[njarmstrong]

A quality install shop will prep the paint for you.

If that isn't the case, you will need to do an assessment as to the condition of the paint. You will need to determine if you have only minor paint marring, any heavily installed swirls from improper maintenance, or even worst, any deeper scratches. Once you determine that you will be in a better position for advice to be given. Could be as simple as a light polishing with a finishing product like Menzerna 4000/4500, or yo could need to move into more compounding with something similar to a Menzerna 1500/2500 or Meguires M105/205 approach.

This is all guess work without knowing where you paint is at now. But, you are in the right mind frame, you want your paint perfect before the bra goes on. Like I said, shop around for an install shop that will do an assessment and polish as needed prior to install. It will cost you more, but if you are not able/capable to do the prep yourself, then this is a good solution.

 

[Sixth]

when i had my 12 i bought that used...had swirls in it. i got it detailed before i applied clear bra. still looks good. when i got the 15 i immediately got it clear bra'd. i didnt get it detailed...probably should have but oh well.

 

[Rypkr937]

And also, what do I do if I can't get the clearbra installed for a few weeks or longer? Ideally I want it on now (car is one week old) but given my work that might not be practical. I want to get a good claybar, sealant, and wax on it if I'm going to be driving it around but is that going to be an issue or extra work to remove before the clearbra?

 

[njarmstrong]

The same principals apply to the application of sealant. Don't seal in scratches!

 

[Rypkr937]

The same principals apply to the application of sealant. Don't seal in scratches!

No. The question was can you clearbra over sealant and wax?

 

[njarmstrong]

Yes, however the installer will likely apply a stripping product to ensure the adhesives on the bra work properly, so any wax will be removed.

 

[Rypkr937]

Yes, however the installer will likely apply a stripping product to ensure the adhesives on the bra work properly, so any wax will be removed.

Thanks! Does the same go for a sealant?

 

[njarmstrong]

Well, it depends on the sealant really. It would not surprise me if the install shop polishes off any LSP (last step products) to ensure the adhesives are contacting the paint directly. The thing with sealants, coatings, waxes is that they are intended to prevent things to stick to them, making dirt easier to remove and limit wash induced marring. So, in theory, a sealant may effect the adhesives and so the install shop will remove it first (especially if they are a shop who warranties their install for any period, they will want to ensure it is done properly).

Generally, all compounding, polishing etc is done JUST prior to the bra install. Then, any sealant, waxes, or coatings are applied over the bra and the rest of the car at that point.

I had a car that had a nano-coating installed, just to see what would happen I got some xpel PPF (just a 2x2 square) and tried to get it to adhere on the hood, it would not stick. I took a second piece and did the best I could and adhered to the roof and left it a few weeks, more than enough time for the adhesives to cure and cause that PPF to be 'permanent' - it peeled off like a sticker.

So, long story - at least in my view - don't put any LSP on before the PPF, and try to arrange your detailing to be completed the day of, or day before your install for maximum shine.

Also, I believe PPF is a waste of money, I don't like the look, and hate the lines it leaves. I would rather deal with fixing the paint then being left with a PPF that is all scratched up that can't be fixed other than to replace it. That being said, if I was to wrap a car again (I did a complete wrap on my GTR - every painted surface) it would be with Suntek self healing as I did for that car - or Xpel Ultimate. At least that way, when it gets scratched up, it can be corrected to a degree far beyond what is possible with basic 3M wrap (or base Xpel for that matter)

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