Help with subframe bolts.

[PamAndJim]

I'm installing my Steeda springs, subframe alignment kit, and subframe bushing supports. I am working on the left side now. I got the spring out and have everything assembled. But, I can not get the front subframe bolt back in. I got it started and it was a little harder to turn than the rear one. As I got close to being tight, it got really hard to turn. To the point that I couldn't turn it at all. I took the bolt out and the threads are a little chewed up, but doesn't look like it was crossed threaded. The rear one went in without a hitch, so it would seem everything is lined up correctly. Please help.

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[BmacIL]

You'll need to use a pry bar or get a hand to shift it over enough to get the bolt in. Make sure all the others are not tightened fully. You will have to look through it to see where the hole of the subframe and the corresponding threaded hole in the body are relative to each other.

 

[PamAndJim]

That's the thing. It's lined up. I can see a straight shot all the way through. I found another similar post and it looks like some people have needed to run a tap through the threads to clean them up. Now to try to find a tap.

 

[Bankss550]

Since a tap was mentioned, what size tap is needed for those of us that will be removing the subframe bolts in the future?

OP I figured this would help

Found it, it's a 14mm 2.0

 

[PamAndJim]

M14x2

Oops didn't read the whole post. I'm hoping my brother in law has one.

 

[HappySquirrel]

I had a similar problem (mine was with the left rear bolt - you probably already found my forum thread). I ended up ditching the left side alignment bushings because that's what caused the issue, because that one bushing wouldn't fit in. I think it's because one of the subframe holes was a different size, causing that particular bushing to sit too high and misalign the bolt. Someone else in 6g had the same issue. I don't know if this is the bushing manufacturer's issue or ford's. Ford might have made a design change or maybe their q.c. sucks on this tolerance.

Regardless, you'll need an M14x2.0 tap to clean up the threads. The only place I could find one at a brick and mortar store was harbor freight. The more expensive kit has one, it costs about 90 bucks. If you want just the one tap you can probably get one on amazon.

Go very slowly retapping the thread. It's quite long and it was kind of nerve wracking doing it, but once it was done I got the bolt in and torqued properly.

Edit: looks like you already have the thread size.

 

[avocet]

The worst thing is to tap it cocked, use some lubricant and a tapered tap to start it off.

 

[Bankss550]

I had a similar problem (mine was with the left rear bolt - you probably already found my forum thread). I ended up ditching the left side alignment bushings because that's what caused the issue, because that one bushing wouldn't fit in. I think it's because one of the subframe holes was a different size, causing that particular bushing to sit too high and misalign the bolt. Someone else in 6g had the same issue. I don't know if this is the bushing manufacturer's issue or ford's. Ford might have made a design change or maybe their q.c. sucks on this tolerance.

Regardless, you'll need an M14x2.0 tap to clean up the threads. The only place I could find one at a brick and mortar store was harbor freight. The more expensive kit has one, it costs about 90 bucks. If you want just the one tap you can probably get one on amazon.

Go very slowly retapping the thread. It's quite long and it was kind of nerve wracking doing it, but once it was done I got the bolt in and torqued properly.

Edit: looks like you already have the thread size.

Yeah I tried looking online for that size tap and either they're kinda pricey for one or the cheaper ones come from companies from China. I guess I'll swing by my usual places and see if they have any. Most local stores don't have taps that big.

 

[PamAndJim]

FYI, I was able to order one through O'Reilly. They had to order from a different store. But, it'll be here this afternoon.

 

[scott_0]

do yourself a favor and use anti-seize on the threads

 

[PamAndJim]

The tap worked like a charm. I put some anti seize on the bolt and it went right in. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[SYK]

Lubed bolts torques significantly easier. I had hard time with my front passenger side one. This subframe doesnt want to sit squre!

 

[Jmeo]

My advice to people is to make sure you jack the subframe all the way back up until the bushing is touching the frame BEFORE you tighten the subframe bolts. Doing this will make sure there isn't any resistance on the bolt and you should be able to thread it all the way in by hand. The weight of the subframe will put too much stress on the threads and thats the #1 reason the threads get jacked up.

 

[s550v6]

Looks like i just jacked up my drivers side front subframe bolt putting in BMR SP080s and Steeda shocks. I have NO experience with a tap nor do I know how to do this process. Can anyone explain? I'm a little panicked right now to be honest lol

 

[Volstang]

I had the exact same thing happen on the driver's side also. It looks like the bolts are self-tapping and they really need to be lined up straight. I ordered a new bolt just in case and also got the Steeda alignment bushings. The alignment bushings helped make sure the bolt went in straight and I was able to get it in without too much hassle. It was harder to turn but I had probably messed up prior threads a bit. I cut put some oil on it and ran it in. There was certainly a pucker factor initially as I was afraid of creating a bad problem for myself but it worked out ok. Best of luck.

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