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Help with GT350 Wheels

hulk_smash

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I have OEM GT350 wheels. I have 295/30/19 AD08R squared. I was going to go 295/35/19 and 305/35/19 but they didn't have the size in stock and I needed tires.

I have plenty of room but my car has -3.1 F camber. I would estimate that you would be flush with -2.3 or -2.4 camber.

I could probably fit a 315/35/19R and 305/35/19F (sticky wide tire) and not rub under full compression.

But if you have stock camber, there is no way it'll work. Get camber plates or lower your car a lot and you will gain more negative camber.

Here is a picture of my car. Excuse all the vinyl mess. Just got stripes too.

[/url]IMG_20161007_124332 by Eric Koh, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]IMG_20161007_135536 by Eric Koh, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Niz55

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Why would you even want to buy heavy set of oem wheels when you can get mmr 350 much much lighter and better quality with the correct offset. Running 295 up front is too much tire. Your car will tramlin like crazy.

You need at least -2.5 camber up front to fix the poking issue and that will kill your tires running that kind of camber and possibly rub against your strut.


How much did you pay?
 

hulk_smash

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Why would you even want to buy heavy set of oem wheels when you can get mmr 350 much much lighter and better quality with the correct offset. Running 295 up front is too much tire. Your car will tramlin like crazy.

You need at least -2.5 camber up front to fix the poking issue and that will kill your tires running that kind of camber and possibly rub against your strut.


How much did you pay?
My car doesn't tramline at all. Fitment is a touch aggressive in front but nothing some camber can't fix.

And what do you mean better quality? Lol. OEM is worse quality than aftermarket? That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Do you even know how much OEM GT350 wheels weigh? It's not heavy like PP wheels.
 

Niz55

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My car doesn't tramline at all. Fitment is a touch aggressive in front but nothing some camber can't fix.

And what do you mean better quality? Lol. OEM is worse quality than aftermarket? That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Do you even know how much OEM GT350 wheels weigh? It's not heavy like PP wheels.
They actually weight in more than pp wheels. Mmr wheels are flow formed strong and very light. Someone actually weight the oem wheels here and i think it was around 35lbs.
 
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Ashiq73

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The reason I went with the OEM GT350 wheels, as I mentioned in a earlier post, is because I had a certain vision for my Mustang.

That vision consists of 2 parts:

- Using only Ford Parts (Whether they are OEM or After Market Ford Performance Parts)

- Having a similar look to a GT350, at least from the rear, similar to Hulk Smash....meaning the Wheels, rear valence with quad tip exhaust and track pack spoiler.

Call me crazy but that is the route I want to go.

The GT350 rims, at least in the front, are only. 5" wider then the MRR wheels.
10.5" vs 10", so I didn't think it would make a huge difference.

I do plan to lower it using either FRPP Street Handling Pack or Track Handling Pack (have not completely decided yet but probably will end up getting the Street Pack)

That will lower it only 1", so it wont be a very aggressive drop, so I think I will be ok as far as having to much negative camber but I could be wrong.

As far as how much I Paid, well it was just a little more then a new set of MRR 350's would have cost me.

So far I appreciate everyone's input and advice....has given me much to think about.
 

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Ashiq73

Ashiq73

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I am running 19x11 ET50 square 305/35 MPSS with 25mm spacer up front(effectively 19x11ET50-25= 19x11ET25). I have custom 24mm spacers on the way so that would be ET26 (11wide). Keep in mind "ET needed" changes with rim width and xxET11" does not equal xxET10.5" ...
I extended the fender support by 1" both sides and then modified the front bumper skin mounts, front support frame, and added internal turnbuckles for support.
Like an idiot, I didnt take pictures while modding to share and now wish I had from the response.
It is time consuming on first attempt, but doable if you have solid body shop back ground and/or fabrication experience and plenty of time.

Getting different offset front wheels might be an easier option if there is space left between tire and strut.

Overall, I humbly suggest reconsider what your underlying goal is:
GT350 looks?
GT350 handling?

I dont think the path there is trying to stay all OEM trying to put a GT350 front clip on your car. Cheapest way to do that would be a wrecked GT350 and use the entire front clip because the cradle, knuckles, links, hubs, etc etc are all different physical geometries. You'd have about $8-12k in parts, paint and body shop labor before youd even be ready to bolt OEM GT350 wheels on and look like a GT350.

Seriously consider talking to Paul about if you can go different offset wheels to bring wheels in up front. His suggestion of spacers rear to match front is solid advice. (Paul is a HUGE asset to the 6G community so you are in good shape with him involved.)

Have you tried swapping front to rear? You will require a spacer front, but adding spacer is WAY Cheaper n faster vs trying to squarely mill down the offset of a wheel. Some wheel repair shops can center and remill offset, but expect $100 a wheel or more.
I should have been more clear....I meant to have a similar look from the side and rear....not doing anything different from the front (maybe a Performance Pack chin spoiler, that's it).
 

Need4SpeedMotors

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They actually weight in more than pp wheels. Mmr wheels are flow formed strong and very light. Someone actually weight the oem wheels here and i think it was around 35lbs.
Actually OEM GT350 wheels are lighter then PP wheels.

30.85 & 30.95 lbs ( GT350 wheels)

~32.5 and 33.8 lbs ( PP wheels)
 

hulk_smash

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I should have been more clear....I meant to have a similar look from the side and rear....not doing anything different from the front (maybe a Performance Pack chin spoiler, that's it).
Just to be clear, OP is asking for advice about how to fit the wheels. NOT on what your opinions are.

His desire is to have a similar look to my car, GT350 rear end, GT350 wheels, GT350 Track Pack spoiler and OEM+ parts. Whether you think that'is foolish is your own opinion. Let's try to stay on topic. :headbonk:

PM me your email and I can show you how much room I have with camber plates. I know people don't like camber plates because of the extra cost. If your car is not going to see track time, a cheaper way is camber bolts. I wouldn't do it if tracking the car though.

Without adding like -2.5 camber, OEM GT350 wheel will poke.

-2.5 is not much camber. It will give you a little more inner shoulder wear, but not enough to give you concern. Just make sure your toe is in spec.

Looking forward to your build fellow GT35.0 LOL.
 

Need4SpeedMotors

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the ford handling packs dont lower you nearly as much as a drop spring like sportlines, which would tuck your wheels nicely. i know that doesnt go with your "plan" but id hate to see you do the whole pack and not get the results you want. id suggest making an exception in this case. plus, you can fix the issue now for like $250 instead of saving and waiting for a $1300 kit, that you could piece together from used crap in the classifieds.
 

Need4SpeedMotors

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the ford handling packs dont lower you nearly as much as a drop spring like sportlines, which would tuck your wheels nicely. i know that doesnt go with your "plan" but id hate to see you do the whole pack and not get the results you want. id suggest making an exception in this case. plus, you can fix the issue now for like $250 instead of saving and waiting for a $1300 kit, that you could piece together from used crap in the classifieds.
Thats true

Steeda does lower it more at 1"
 

Rambl3r

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GT350 front end conversion and call it a day?
 

barstowpo

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Is there enough meat on the wheel centers to machine some off and increase back space?
 

Need4SpeedMotors

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Is there enough meat on the wheel centers to machine some off and increase back space?
You never want to do that and if you do max is 3 mm
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