Heavy Shifter Knob Query

[Ryno073]

I think I'll end up removing it since my concern is with the shape of the knob (you can also see in these 2 pictures) I think the outside ring will tighten against the powdercoat and cause it to get marked up or chip off from metal on metal. But as shown in the 2 pictures, my inside threads SHOULD be removable very easily but they are not removable and billet claims they are. On top of that you can see I'm missing the 2 flat spots to tighten it down to the locknut that every knob on their website clearly shows in every install video, so am I going crazy or did they send me the incorrect knob/hardware/ mess up somewhere., the picture with the flats is from the install video. Kindly give any some advice lol this is a headache

I recently ordered a knob from Billetworkz, and they sent it with a longer threaded insert that sat flush with the bottom of the shift knob, as shown in your pic. Since I have the OEM shifter, there was no room to accommodate the reverse lockout inside the shift knob. I notified them, and they quickly sent a shorter insert that has flat sides and the set screw.
In the pic below, the one on the right is what was originally in the knob, the one on the left is the new, shorter one they sent.

Sponsored

 

[Outlaw]

I recently ordered a knob from Billetworkz, and they sent it with a longer threaded insert that sat flush with the bottom of the shift knob, as shown in your pic. Since I have the OEM shifter, there was no room to accommodate the reverse lockout inside the shift knob. I notified them, and they quickly sent a shorter insert that has flat sides and the set screw.
In the pic below, the one on the right is what was originally in the knob, the one on the left is the new, shorter one they sent.

Mine appears like the one of the right IF it is removable, the seam at the bottom looks to be solid and I tried to remove it the best I could to no avail, next step would be to put it in a vice and maybe a specialized tool to grip it in the narrow area but I don't believe it will come out without damage so they are sending a replacement. Very quick to respond and help out, def using billetworkz again

 

[Outlaw]

If you think you have a problem you just need to contact them.

The jam nut they include is intended for use with a pull-up collar. You don't have one of those.

I did not use the jam nut they included with my MGW shifter, I used the MGW OEM knob adapter as a jam nut.

Don't know what else to tell you.

Can you grab a pic of how it paired together with the mgw own knob adapter? My concern was chipping the knob on the bottom by tightening metal on metal from the lip of the mgw adapter to the bottom edge but maybe it slides inside?

 

[Spart]

Can you grab a pic of how it paired together with the mgw own knob adapter? My concern was chipping the knob on the bottom by tightening metal on metal from the lip of the mgw adapter to the bottom edge but maybe it slides inside?

Mine fit inside, but it was a slightly different style than the one you have.

Made of bare stainless with hidden wrench flats and a good deal shorter. Still an MGW product though.

The Billetworkz knobs are designed to fit over the shift boot collar, so it *should* fit inside the knob, but you should double check.

 

[Outlaw]

Mine fit inside, but it was a slightly different style than the one you have.

Made of bare stainless with hidden wrench flats and a good deal shorter. Still an MGW product though.

The Billetworkz knobs are designed to fit over the shift boot collar, so it *should* fit inside the knob, but you should double check.

It does not fit inside, it on the lip so I'm concerned it could chip the powdercoat off the bottom edge. Without it there is a large gap to the shift boot. Hopefully the pictures get added to this, the other issue I'm having now is the locknut won't hold and when I twist the knob on it just spins the locknut too after it bottoms out. Any suggestions? My other option is move the set screw in the black adapter to where it's pointed almost directly at the driver's seat (and visible which will annoy me but it's an option). So that it becomes the locknut but again, brings up the concern of metal on powdercoat causing it to chip. (It's honestly some pretty bad powdercoating to, it's like 4 diff shades of blue as you spin it around due to super uneven coatings).

 

[Spart]

It does not fit inside, it on the lip so I'm concerned it could chip the powdercoat off the bottom edge. Without it there is a large gap to the shift boot. Hopefully the pictures get added to this, the other issue I'm having now is the locknut won't hold and when I twist the knob on it just spins the locknut too after it bottoms out. Any suggestions? My other option is move the set screw in the black adapter to where it's pointed almost directly at the driver's seat (and visible which will annoy me but it's an option). So that it becomes the locknut but again, brings up the concern of metal on powdercoat causing it to chip. (It's honestly some pretty bad powdercoating to, it's like 4 diff shades of blue as you spin it around due to super uneven coatings).

Is the issue that you bought the wrong knob?

I think the diameter of the hole in the "tall teardrop" and "short teardrop" may be different.

I think most of us went with the "short teardrop".

Billetworkz description of the short teardrop:

The Short Teardrop Shift Knob is a go-to choice for drivers who want an OEM-style fit, especially on vehicles with large factory reverse lockouts. With added weight and a natural grip shape, it delivers a shift feel that’s smooth, precise, and confidence-inspiring.

The "large factory reverse lockout" would be the important component, there.

 

[Outlaw]

Is the issue that you bought the wrong knob?

I think the diameter of the hole in the "tall teardrop" and "short teardrop" may be different.

I think most of us went with the "short teardrop".

Billetworkz description of the short teardrop:





The "large factory reverse lockout" would be the important component, there.

It's the right knob, no reverse lockout since it's an mgw shifter, it's push down not pull up. Either way it's do I put the knob against the black adapter or will it touching on the bottom cause the powdercoat to chip/become damaged or do I leave it exposed with no black adapter where you see the silver shaft. I can maybe space the boot up a 1/4 in or so and close some of that gap but not much.

 

[Spart]

It's the right knob, no reverse lockout since it's an mgw shifter, it's push down not pull up. Either way it's do I put the knob against the black adapter or will it touching on the bottom cause the powdercoat to chip/become damaged or do I leave it exposed with no black adapter where you see the silver shaft. I can maybe space the boot up a 1/4 in or so and close some of that gap but not much.

I've installed two MGW shifters. I am very familiar with what I'm talking about here.

You misunderstand.

The MGW OEM knob adapter replicates the reverse lockout collar. It's dimensionally the same.

It's designed to fit in the hole in the bottom of an OEM knob that the reverse lockout collar slides in and out of.

The knob you have is not designed to accept the size of reverse lockout collar that S550's have.

That's why the two aren't playing nice together. You should've gotten the "short teardrop" style from Billetworkz if you wanted an OEM look with the MGW knob adapter.

 

[Outlaw]

I've installed two MGW shifters. I am very familiar with what I'm talking about here.

You misunderstand.

The MGW OEM knob adapter replicates the reverse lockout collar. It's dimensionally the same.

It's designed to fit in the hole in the bottom of an OEM knob that the reverse lockout collar slides in and out of.

The knob you have is not designed to accept the size of reverse lockout collar that S550's have.

That's why the two aren't playing nice together. You should've gotten the "short teardrop" style from Billetworkz if you wanted an OEM look with the MGW knob adapter.

I didn't want a short knob. I wanted the weight and height, I got it figured I just ran the adapter down as far as I could go and raised the knob just enough to get the wrench there, a thinner wrench will let me drop the knob down more but I soun the adapter up until just before touching and slid the boot up. It sits a bit high now and I could def get it maybe 3/4 of an inch lower if I removed the adapter but I don't know if that would make any difference in terms of comfort/functionality what do you think? Leave it where it is or drop it down? I'll probably drop it down 1/4 in or whatever 1-3 turns if the thread are once I get a super thin wrench that will allow for that to happen.

 

[ralph7]

I didn't want a short knob. I wanted the weight and height, I got it figured I just ran the adapter down as far as I could go and raised the knob just enough to get the wrench there, a thinner wrench will let me drop the knob down more but I soun the adapter up until just before touching and slid the boot up. It sits a bit high now and I could def get it maybe 3/4 of an inch lower if I removed the adapter but I don't know if that would make any difference in terms of comfort/functionality what do you think? Leave it where it is or drop it down? I'll probably drop it down 1/4 in or whatever 1-3 turns if the thread are once I get a super thin wrench that will allow for that to happen.

Looks good where it is and the higher it sits, the easier it goes into gear, up to a point, lol.

Sponsored