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M3Convert

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The stock brakes pads are excellent for track IMO. I just tracked it two weeks ago maxing speed at ~120mph and stopping hard in some of the turns. Five sessions each about 25 minutes long, NO FADES whatsoever.



Fast straights at: 2:19; 4:04 etc... (almost every 2 mins - my fastest lap 1:49)

Agree that they are very dusty. Getting less dusty pads for street should be fine with no sacrifice to daily performance (including occasional hard stops). But I would never use them on the track. Would be concerned with FADING after 10 - 15 mins on anything else.
I liked your video, I think you had a good line and good speed. Nice driving!

I don't know if you know, but one of the Octopus "tricks" is to put your driver side on the ribbed curbing on the inside. It takes a little practice, but you'll feel it when you get it as you don't fight the corner as much. This "hooks up" the front and pulls it around, countering the intrinsic understeer and allowing the [EDIT] car to rotate more...so you can go faster. This sets you up for the straight, last corner and home straight as long as you tuck your nuts in for the final corner. The front straight starts where you cross the track from right to left on the Octopus.

Lightning is the same, on Turn #7 (edited, it was incorrectly named #6 before), the left hander up the hill. You get close to the inside curb, the camber really helps the car around and allows more speed and stops you running out of track on the left "track out" where you have to lift if you are too wide in #7. This speed sets you up for the home straight if you keep your speed through the light bulb.
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Genzen

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They may be OK at high 1:40's/low 1:50's and 120 mph on that track (your video, which I'm assuming was by GoPro, showed me a 1:47 lap - 6:06 from 4:19), but I'd be more than cautious about running them once your T-bolt lap times drop consistently into the mid to upper 1:30's and you're braking from 125 or better and braking later.

Do you know why you were getting a little lockup during the early laps but not in the later ones?

I'll make this suggestion advisedly - make your downshift between T4 and T5 rather than after apexing 5. Advisedly because if you're carrying as much speed through 4 as your tires can support, your stock pads may not be able to keep getting you slowed down in the time & distance remaining after you get your downshift done.

I've found that if you try to stay inside line most of the way from T8 and all the way through T9 that you're essentially early-apexing 9 when you'd really rather be a little later there so you don't pinch yourself going into 10 (and have to slow down for it).


I'm not an instructor, but I run solo at NJMP in HOD's Group B and in NJMP's advanced/instructor group at NJMP's own track days and have a 1:37 T-bolt lap time in my 4.6L GT to show for it.


Norm
My biggest issue was not knowing heal-toe shifting. Been practicing since then getting much better.
 

Genzen

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I liked your video, I think you had a good line and good speed. Nice driving!

I don't know if you know, but one of the Octopus "tricks" is to put your driver side on the ribbed curbing on the inside. It takes a little practice, but you'll feel it when you get it as you don't fight the corner as much. This "hooks up" the front and pulls it around, countering the intrinsic understeer and allowing the [EDIT] car to rotate more...so you can go faster. This sets you up for the straight, last corner and home straight as long as you tuck your nuts in for the final corner. The front straight starts where you cross the track from right to left on the Octopus.

Lightning is the same, on Turn #7 (edited, it was incorrectly named #6 before), the left hander up the hill. You get close to the inside curb, the camber really helps the car around and allows more speed and stops you running out of track on the left "track out" where you have to lift if you are too wide in #7. This speed sets you up for the home straight if you keep your speed through the light bulb.
Thanks, I'll try it the next time down there.

Evan
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