Green Koenig Build

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m3incorp

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Your wheel widths and offsets are different from mine. My fronts are 20x10 with 33 offset and rears are 20x11 with 55 offset.

Good to hear no rubbing
Its a street car set up no track
Im set up with Nitto G2's / rtr tech 7 20x9.5" wheels (33 offset)& 275/35R20 tires (front), 20x10.5"(45 offset) wheels & 305/35R20 tires (rear). I have a pp1
So will keep oem shocks/struts until later

What are your velgen offsets?

It sounds like the steeda progressive rate springs and caster camber plates are best for me. I have plenty of room in front for the drop but was concerned about rubbing on the rear since its a 20", and 305 tire

Next is roush phase 2 kit

Thanks again





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Well, I've decided I'm not happy at all with the B&O audio.

I ordered a Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 mono amplifier and amp wiring kit. I'll pull the signal from the subwoofer wires that are already in the rear and see how the JL Audio subwoofer in the stock enclosure sounds with 300 watts at 4 ohms thrown at it, vs the 40-50 stock watts. If it does as I need it to do, I will leave it at that for the subwoofer; if not, then I have a Kicker Comp Loaded Enclosure with 12" Subwoofer, like I have in the Fusion that will do the job for bass. If I go that route, the enclosure won't take up too much space, but I will install it so that I can easily remove it when needed and plug back into the JL Audio subwoofer. It's a shame, but I imagine eventually I will install the Kenwood XR600-6DSP and replace all of the stock speakers from the B&O system; if only they would not have speakers throughout the car that have different ohms, especially the ones with the not so common 2 ohms..... makes me wonder what the engineer was thinking.
 
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I decided to just go ahead and add the Kicker Subwoofer enclosure. I installed it so that if I ever need trunk space, I can remove it in less than 5 minutes and plug the stock enclosure back in. The B&O subwoofer was just too mushy for me and didn't provide what I would consider to be bass.
Kicker Subwoofer.jpg
 
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I haven't posted anything here for a while. I have added the hood and trunk struts, finished up (for now) the audio, ordered a carbon fiber steering wheel, back from getting PPF, Ceramic Coating, and Window Tinting.
Ceramic 3.jpg
Ceramic Update 1.jpg
Ceramic Update 2.jpg
Ceramic Update 4.jpg
 

Soulja4187

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Hello everyone, I'm new here on the site but have been posting a little lately. I decided to do a build thread to help me track things as I do them. Background: I'm probably a little older than many on here but younger than some :) but hey that doesn't stop the fun. The car is a 2019 GT Premium 401A, 6 Speed, Roush Phase 2, 3:55 rear axle, Safe and Smart and B&O Premium Sound System. The only option that I wished it had would be the Active Exhaust. If you are wondering why I don't wish for either of the Performance Packs, stay tuned.

I flew to Cincinnati to pick up the car from Lebanon Ford, well known for their performance builds; I drove it the 575 miles back to Georgia. It was a great experience and was nice to have Josh, the Perfomance Manager explain all the mechanicals. He made sure that I knew the engine would live on 5w50 full synthic oil and 93 octane for the rest of its life.

There has been a slight hiccup with the car. The Service engine light came on about 150 miles south of the dealership in Lebanon. Called up Josh and he had me to pull into an Auto Zone to have the code/s read. They came up as Knock Sensor #3 Right bank. We went through a quick check list......what octane gas was I running; still had the original 93 octane fill from the dealership. Reset Light and fill up with Shell Vitro 93 octane, and light came back on. Next, it was determined that the car was not down on power and not pulling power, so 100 percent sure that the # Knock Sensor is faulty. He called and told me of the Roush dealers within 200 miles of my location. Called the first two within 100 miles and though they both sell Roush vehicles, they declined the opportunity to work on it, stating that it was too intensive for their technicans....at least they were honest. Found another dealership about 130 miles away and they said their only Roush technican is book until the end of May but did give me a recommendation for a dealership that supposedly has one of the best Roush technicans in Georgia. I will call them tomorrow and try to schedule something. I've already learned that though the codes have been read and we know what the problem is, the servicing dealership will have me come in to run their diagnostics and to order the parts and then "return" to drop it off for at least two days to have the part changed. The selling dealership has promised to make things right....I'll see what they have to say about a rental car and possibly a hotel for a couple of days. I'm hoping it will be positive. OK, enough of that.

I arrived home with the car on Saturday night. Sunday morning I removed the Xpel Trac Wrap that I had put on the entire front end, mirrors, and wheel debris strike areas. It did a great job. Then I put on the Velgen VF5 20x11 rear and 20x10 fronts with Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires sized 305/35R20 and 275/35R20.

Yesterday, Day 2 I had the Steeda Progressive Springs with their bumpstops installed. Front drop is supposed to be 1.25 and rear 1.0. You can judge for yourself from the before and after pics.

I have purchased and plan to install the Steeda Jacking Rails and Steeda H-Pipe this week. I'm going to do a little experimenting with adding a Roush Axle Back and then the Steeda Axle Back and see which gives the sound that I am looking for.

Before Lowering
20200301_165213.jpg


Steeda Progressive Springs
20200303_161142.jpg
Hey bud. I'm looking to pick up a set of these rims and tires. I have a questions after your drop can you still clear the parking blocks?

Beautiful ride by the way, tastefully done!

Thanks
 
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Thanks. Yes, it does clear the blocking blocks but only by a 1/2" or so. I haven't scraped yet.

Hey bud. I'm looking to pick up a set of these rims and tires. I have a questions after your drop can you still clear the parking blocks?

Beautiful ride by the way, tastefully done!

Thanks
 
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Soulja4187

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Well, it's been a few months and I have made a couple of updates. I've added a Beth Performance Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel that I think looks great. I've also once again changed subwoofers. This time I decided to get a sealed JL Audio subwoofer. It is leaps and bounds above my other set-ups.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1VpBY...X40TWIYwdbo6odvKujkNsvcqcdL3dxF4aAkxWEALw_wcB

Steering Wheel Update.jpg


JL Sub 1.jpg
While that carbon fiber steering wheel looks cool I wouldnt to give up my steering wheel warmer. Once they make an aftermarket that has that feature I would go with it.

So in your sound system what have you changed besides the subwoofer? How many watts is it. Thanks
 
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I can definitely understand not wanting to give up the heating function. Here in GA, I didn't feel that I needed it, now if I have this car in CO, that might be another story.

Currently, I have the Focal Flax 3 way components on order for the front and the Morel Tempo Ultra 602 Integrals for the rear. I've had people ask why I didn't go with Focal for the rear also, but considering the rears are mostly for "fill", I didn't see the need to spend the money for the Focals but yet the Morel's are great sounding speakers also.

The JL Audio subwoofer is rated at 600 watts RMS. I don't typically buy car components based on how many watts they "might" actually put out but for the sound quality. This subwoofer is highly respected in the JL Audio community and to be honest, I wasn't sure if I was going to like the sealed over the ported.

While that carbon fiber steering wheel looks cool I wouldnt to give up my steering wheel warmer. Once they make an aftermarket that has that feature I would go with it.

So in your sound system what have you changed besides the subwoofer? How many watts is it. Thanks
 
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m3incorp

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Jack Roush signed my battery cover today.

Jack Roush Battery Cover.jpeg
 

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