FREE HORSEPOWER: Modifications to the stock CAI that help flow!

[slowhand99]

If there is crud on that side of your air box, your in trouble. ;)

When you shut off the car emissions fall back down into the air box and then to atmosphere, this prevents those emissions escaping back to atmosphere.

Ah, fugitive hydrocarbons. God bless California

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[Mustang_Lou]

You've done a TON of experimenting on this car (and not just this thread) to the benefit of all of us here ... much thanks from me!

I should do a datalog on my 93 Livernois tune from 2k rpm to the top (likely in 2nd gear) to compare to. Sadly, the DashCommand app doesn't log knock retard but I've e-mailed them about that. The rest of the main parameters are there though.

 

[Gibbo205]

Ah, fugitive hydrocarbons. God bless California

Like I say rip it out, even on the stock tune, car felt more urgent up top, placebo maybe, but the maf flow data does not lie.

 

[Gibbo205]

You've done a TON of experimenting on this car (and not just this thread) to the benefit of all of us here ... much thanks from me!

I should do a datalog on my 93 Livernois tune from 2k rpm to the top (likely in 2nd gear) to compare to. Sadly, the DashCommand app doesn't log knock retard but I've e-mailed them about that. The rest of the main parameters are there though.

Can you get them to make your a custom logging file? If so you want to monitor Knock sensor, Spark V1, Spark V2, maf flow rate lbs, RPM, Vehicle Speed, intake temp, fuel trims etc. But for sake of this Spark V1/V2 or saftot, maf flow and knock sensor would do.

3rd gear is best, 1500-6500, any higher RPM is upto you. 3rd is better because 2nd can cause wheel slip/spin, which can throw results off.

I've never seen a Livernois datalog, seen JDM, SCT, AED, Lund and they all do things a little differently.

 

[Mustang_Lou]

Can you get them to make your a custom logging file? If so you want to monitor Knock sensor, Spark V1, Spark V2, maf flow rate lbs, RPM, Vehicle Speed, intake temp, fuel trims etc. But for sake of this Spark V1/V2 or saftot, maf flow and knock sensor would do.

3rd gear is best, 1500-6500, any higher RPM is upto you. 3rd is better because 2nd can cause wheel slip/spin, which can throw results off.

I've never seen a Livernois datalog, seen JDM, SCT, AED, Lund and they all do things a little differently.

By 'them' you mean DashCommand? If so, they don't set up the logging PID's, I do from the app (except KR is not available). Actually, it logs a ton of stuff with way too many columns in an Excel file. I then take the columns I want over to another Excel tab.

I've got Michelin PS4's which are way better than the P-Zero's in terms of spin but I'll try 3rd gear. Problem is that'll take me past 140 km/hr maybe up to 150. I'd have to do it on a barren on-ramp onto the hiway and if you get caught doing 50 over the speed limit of 100 they'll impound your car right there on the spot and suspend your drivers license for a while as well.

Would need to do a test drive by first to make sure it's safe.

 

[Gibbo205]

By 'them' you mean DashCommand? If so, they don't set up the logging PID's, I do from the app (except KR is not available). Actually, it logs a ton of stuff with way too many columns in an Excel file. I then take the columns I want over to another Excel tab.

I've got Michelin PS4's which are way better than the P-Zero's in terms of spin but I'll try 3rd gear. Problem is that'll take me past 140 km/hr maybe up to 150. I'd have to do it on a barren on-ramp onto the hiway and if you get caught doing 50 over the speed limit of 100 they'll impound your car right there on the spot and suspend your drivers license for a while as well.

Would need to do a test drive by first to make sure it's safe.

If you do 2nd gear, make sure your WOT before 1500rpm, PS4S will grip fine also, probably fine even in 1st, such a sticky tyre compared to Pzero.
Don't worry about knock, if you have bad knock it will stand out like a sore thumb on the spark readouts. ;)

And sorry, here in the UK we think nothing about blasting around at high speeds, though its not legal to go above 70mph, every does.

 

[Manders Mustang]

If you do 2nd gear, make sure your WOT before 1500rpm, PS4S will grip fine also, probably fine even in 1st, such a sticky tyre compared to Pzero.
Don't worry about knock, if you have bad knock it will stand out like a sore thumb on the spark readouts. ;)

And sorry, here in the UK we think nothing about blasting around at high speeds, though its not legal to go above 70mph, every does.

We just do it on private roads :shrug:!
:headbonk:

 

[Gibbo205]

We just do it on private roads :shrug:!
:headbonk:

I just go to Mac driveway, its private and about a mile long. ;)

 

[Manders Mustang]

I just go to Mac driveway, its private and about a mile long. ;)

Wow McDonalds around your have a long drive thru! :lol::lol:;).

Just go to the old air fields around Fradley (near curborough circuit), plenty of tarmac around there to get a proper hoon on

 

[Mustang_Lou]

We don't really have private roads here, at least not ones that long ... they're all "public". ie. Gov't property.

 

[SurfOrFight]

Dry Weave Top Sheet Removal

Removed the Black thing in the airbox, thanks to Gibbo. Never looked inside until now. Hoovered out a few dead flies while I was at it!

Also fitted the Steeda 'hood' release in red; very expensive tasteful bling!

 

[christianUK]

I'm in 2 minds now about fitting my GT350 manifold & CAI. It's here, it's sitting in boxes but is there any point? Am I better off just selling it? I've currently got stock box, K&N filter but the Airaid tube (sound tube deleted)

 

[Gibbo205]

I'm in 2 minds now about fitting my GT350 manifold & CAI. It's here, it's sitting in boxes but is there any point? Am I better off just selling it? I've currently got stock box, K&N filter but the Airaid tube (sound tube deleted)

I can tell you this, though I can feel the car pulling well, its doing 0-100 in 10.5s so its going well.

But I can really feel the car go flat just past 6000rpm, don't get me wrong if your in 2nd gear, the car hits the limiter very quick, but in 3rd upwards the power drop off up top is really noticeable.

The 350 IM has gorgeous linear power delivery and the power just builds and builds just like an NA car should, they will pull hard to 8000rpm if you let them, the stock IM really does not do this!

If you never rev past 6000, stay stock, if your willing to increase your rev limit to a minimum of 7500rpm, the 350 IM is worth it for sure, I miss the high RPM pull big time.

Our engine and ancillaries are rated and design for upto 7500rpm, Ford limit it lower so they can sell power packs. PP2 increase limiter to 7200rpm and PP3 takes it to 7500rpm.

My advice is to anyone doing the 350 IM, make sure your tuner sets your softer limiter no lower than 7700rpm, ideally closer to 8000rpm though.

The crank is designed for 7500rpm, but you don't want to be hitting the limiter at 7500rpm, it shocks the OPG, hence set the limiter higher but aim to change gear around 7500rpm, this way you avoid the limiter.

Though it is hard to portray in a video here is how easy the car revs:

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You can see it just pulls and pulls. Best 0-100 was around 9.5s as you don't need 4th, with 4th its still sub 10s.

Also if I boot mine now over 5000rpm, it pulls as you'd expect, much better with the air box mods and Lund tune (28-31 degrees up top).

But on the 350 IM booting it anything past 5500rpm and the car ripped your face off. It starts to make more power compared to stock IM 5500 upwards, at 6500rpm your around 20HP up, by 7000rpm your a good 50HP up and by 7500RPM your like 60HP up due to the stock IM falling off in power.

It depends what you want, torque get a canned tune, Mishi tube and an F150 manifold, you will get huge power and torque gains under 6000rpm but it will be flat as a pancake up top.

Want high RPM, GT 350 IM, GT 350 CAI, Lund tune and the thing will pull like crazy to 8000rpm if you let it.

I like linear power and high RPM, thats why I love the Coyote, I like the fact it lacks torque down low in comparison to a Camaro, the Camaro is dead by 6000rpm, the Coyote keeps going, more so with a 350 IM.

If you ever get on an autobahn or private road, the sheer pull in 4th and 5th is incredible at the upper RPM.

 

[Mustang_Lou]

Tempting ... really no noticeable loss elsewhere in the RPM range when going to the GT350 IM?

 

[Gibbo205]

Tempting ... really no noticeable loss elsewhere in the RPM range when going to the GT350 IM?

Nope, I felt really nothing, the dyno graphs I did at the time showed some torque loss around 3500rpm but because the stock IM has a lumpy torque curve and the 350 IM is a nicer flatter curve, on the road it feels as strong.

For me the 350 IM only created positives, the only downsides were touchy throttle generally from the 350 TB. AED has the best throttle but more suited to autos than manuals


But you have to mod based on your driving style, some people change gear at 5500rpm and like power lower in the curve, as such 350 IM would be a total waste.

Whereas people like me like power to build with RPM, that comes from my Vtec ownership days and as such the 350 IM delivers this as peak power is around 7300rpm and then it hold the power nearly flat upto 7800rpm, the stock IM peaks at 6200-6400rpm and is falling off drastically by 6500rpm.

If racing stock IM change gear at 7000rpm, on the 350 IM change close to 8000rpm.

For me I just enjoy flooring a card in 3rd and 4th on a country road, this was where the 350 IM simply excelled as 3rd was good for like 105mph and 4th well over 130, more than enough, on stock IM always needing 5th to keep it in powerband.

Coyote is flexible, you can tune it for torque and low down power, or you can tune it to be a high RPM monster, a rare thing on V8's only really Ford, Ferrari and BMW offering such high revving V8's, well not BMW any more.

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