Finally fixed my wheel hop! (Suspension upgrades were NOT the answer)

[Wamp]

What’s up guys?

I’ve been dealing with crazy wheel hop since I owned my car… and I’ve been chasing the fix for quite some time. I read everything I could find on this forum and ended up with almost full suspension.

CB005 Lockouts
CB762 Lockouts
TCA048 vert links
BK081 LCA Bearing
SP086 drag springs
BMR Drag alignment
RTR shocks (made by Koni)
Poly diff inserts
Rear IRS alignment Dowells
Solid rear Shock mounts

Still had wheel hop. Ran this setup for a few street runs with 315/35/r20 Nitto NTO5Rs. STILL had wheel hop!

I knew I had a noise in the rear going over bumps. Everything is torqued, so nothing came loose… then I checked the wheel bearings.



Fixed the wheel bearing, no more wheel hop. If you’ve got wheel hop, check your wheel bearings.

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[NightmareMoon]

Yep. Check those wheel bearings and try at least to inspect the bushings and other parts. A wheel bearing check should also hopefully reveal bad balljoints.

Make sure the parts you have are in good working order before buying more junk.

 

[Wamp]

Yep. Check those wheel bearings and try at least to inspect the bushings and other parts. A wheel bearing check should also hopefully reveal bad balljoints.

Make sure the parts you have are in good working order before buying more junk.

When I first got this car, rather than checking all the common stuff (like Wheel bearings and bushings), I read about issues other people had.

-Cradle movement
-Deflection of anything rubber
-Loosening axle nuts.

I didn’t see anything about wheel bearings causing traction issues on the forum… so I didn’t immediately check it. I fixed all of the problems other people had rather than checking into my car’s potential issues.

Believe it or not, it wasn’t making much noise until I switched to a wider wheel. The narrower wheels had a centerline directly above the wheel hub, so it didn’t bounce a whole lot. Now riding on wider wheels, the centerline of the wheel is offset about an inch from the hub… and it made a whole lot more noise. That’s the point at which I checked the hubs and kicked myself for not checking before

 

[OGsmakDadE]

What’s up guys?

I’ve been dealing with crazy wheel hop since I owned my car… and I’ve been chasing the fix for quite some time. I read everything I could find on this forum and ended up with almost full suspension.

CB005 Lockouts
CB762 Lockouts
TCA048 vert links
BK081 LCA Bearing
SP086 drag springs
BMR Drag alignment
RTR shocks (made by Koni)
Poly diff inserts
Rear IRS alignment Dowells
Solid rear Shock mounts

Still had wheel hop. Ran this setup for a few street runs with 315/35/r20 Nitto NTO5Rs. STILL had wheel hop!

I knew I had a noise in the rear going over bumps. Everything is torqued, so nothing came loose… then I checked the wheel bearings.



Fixed the wheel bearing, no more wheel hop. If you’ve got wheel hop, check your wheel bearings.

I had a bad drivers side rear wheel bearing at 17,000mi. Glad you found your issue.

 

[Wamp]

I had a bad drivers side rear wheel bearing at 17,000mi. Glad you found your issue.

I’m not sure why wheel bearings aren’t discussed on the forums like half shafts or CB005 lockouts. In talking to people, it does seem to be a common failure point.

In looking at the video, it’s obvious why it would cause wheel hop… I’m sure it’s an issue for a lot of people, especially people with lowered cars. Just can’t seem to figure out why it’s not discussed here.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I’m not sure why wheel bearings aren’t discussed on the forums like half shafts or CB005 lockouts. In talking to people, it does seem to be a common failure point.

In looking at the video, it’s obvious why it would cause wheel hop… I’m sure it’s an issue for a lot of people, especially people with lowered cars. Just can’t seem to figure out why it’s not discussed here.

Honestly its the first mention of bearings being the root cause of someone’s wheel hop issues that I can remember. Makes complete sense tho.

 

[Emilbadal]

Are there other offerings from bearing manufacturers (maybe Japenese) to replace the bearings on these cars( Not the whole assembly, just the bearings)? Just wondering, cause it seems that the oems are not as durable as they should be....I don't think the wheel bearings should go out before the oem brake pads

 

[Wamp]

Are there other offerings from bearing manufacturers (maybe Japenese) to replace the bearings on these cars( Not the whole assembly, just the bearings)? Just wondering, cause it seems that the oems are not as durable as they should be....I don't think the wheel bearings should go out before the oem brake pads

Hah. Absolutely, that makes sense.

Dion from BMR indicated it’s more common on lowered cars, especially with Eibach springs.

One of the car reviewers on YouTube(Savagegeese) indicated his went out on his GT because he was particularly hard on it. That makes sense too… because there is a lot of abuse going to these things on launches. Alex Flores (Lund/YDBT) also said in a livestream last week, parts like this, O2 sensors, and other items like this should almost be counted as consumables like Oil. They will wear far quicker than normal because of how we abuse them.

 

[OGsmakDadE]

Hah. Absolutely, that makes sense.

Dion from BMR indicated it’s more common on lowered cars, especially with Eibach springs.

One of the car reviewers on YouTube(Savagegeese) indicated his went out on his GT because he was particularly hard on it. That makes sense too… because there is a lot of abuse going to these things on launches. Alex Flores (Lund/YDBT) also said in a livestream last week, parts like this, O2 sensors, and other items like this should almost be counted as consumables like Oil. They will wear far quicker than normal because of how we abuse them.

Mine is lowered on Ford performance shocks, springs,etc. I went with an aftermarket bearing, I’ll let you know how it holds up

 

[Arknsawchuck]

I had a bad drivers side rear wheel bearing at 17,000mi. Glad you found your issue.

Mine on the same side went out at 1000 miles...I win....lol

 

[Wamp]

Hah. Absolutely, that makes sense.

Dion from BMR indicated it’s more common on lowered cars, especially with Eibach springs.

One of the car reviewers on YouTube(Savagegeese) indicated his went out on his GT because he was particularly hard on it. That makes sense too… because there is a lot of abuse going to these things on launches. Alex Flores (Lund/YDBT) also said in a livestream last week, parts like this, O2 sensors, and other items like this should almost be counted as consumables like Oil. They will wear far quicker than normal because of how we abuse them.

Mine on the same side went out at 1000 miles...I win....lol

Yikes. Hopefully people will start talking about this as a regular issue… and Will know to check these when they get a mustang

 

[OGsmakDadE]

Mine on the same side went out at 1000 miles...I win....lol

I bought mine used with 17k miles on it, that’s when I discovered the bad bearing. No telling when it actually started to fail.

 

[Arknsawchuck]

Ok

I bought mine used with 17k miles on it, that’s when I discovered the bad bearing. No telling when it actually started to fail.

Ok, we can call it a tie...lol

 

[1MeanZ]

For most of the life of this web forum these cars were too new for most of them to have rear wheel bearing failures. As these cars age, mileage/wear related issues like this crop up more often and it will be more commonly discussed here.

I've been on an '82-'92 Camaro/Firebird forum for over 20 years now. When issues like this crop up, common wear components are the first thing discussed. Don't worry this forum will get there eventually LOL

 

[bnightstar]

If your wheel hubs are braking check out this lug nuts mine changed size from 21 to 22" and now they untorque from vibrations and then the axel nut is next and then the wheel hub. Upgraded lug nuts are a must on our cars.

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