Euro headlight harness

[Xander33]

I guess this is the right section of the forum...

Does anyone have details on how to rewire euro headlights on a 2019, or know where I can find a harness/adapter to allow me to use the euro spec headlights as plug and play? I can't stand the amber reflectors and the only other option is another set of headlights and bust them open to modify. Not sure which task would be more expensive or more annoying to carry out so I'm exploring both, but would much rather be able to use the euro headlights. Thanks!

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[ScubaSteve2020]

One possibility:
VLAND Ford Mustang Dual Beam Headlights 2018 2019 2020 Without Turn Si — VLAND Official (vland-official.com)

 

[Xander33]

One possibility:
VLAND Ford Mustang Dual Beam Headlights 2018 2019 2020 Without Turn Si — VLAND Official (vland-official.com)

I saw these guys too. On the site it looks like they all still have the amber markers. I'm going to try to call today and see if they have any solutions. Found a set of brand new oe euros that I'd love to buy, but don't want to pull the trigger until I'm sure I can wire them without a big mess

 

[ScubaSteve2020]

I saw these guys too. On the site it looks like they all still have the amber markers. I'm going to try to call today and see if they have any solutions. Found a set of brand new oe euros that I'd love to buy, but don't want to pull the trigger until I'm sure I can wire them without a big mess

Another and inexpensive option that my son actually did to his 2017 Ecoboost: Headlight Amber Corner Lens Vinyl Blackout (2018-2022 Mustang) (anchor-room.com)

 

[RasJeremy]

The vinyl on the headlight to hide the orange marker is a solution yes but it looks cheap and not good to be honest.

This is the diagram for the export headlights
Don't mind the painted arrow and red text - it was for my own project when I got my car to get taillights to stay on even during daylight.
And I know the text is in Danish but it should e quite easy to translate and else throw me a DM and We'll figure it out

 

[Xander33]

Another and inexpensive option that my son actually did to his 2017 Ecoboost: Headlight Amber Corner Lens Vinyl Blackout (2018-2022 Mustang) (anchor-room.com)

I got these as well and was hoping to be 100% happy with them. They work ok, but I just love the look of a factory piece that has the look to begin with.

 

[Xander33]

The vinyl on the headlight to hide the orange marker is a solution yes but it looks cheap and not good to be honest.

This is the diagram for the export headlights
Don't mind the painted arrow and red text - it was for my own project when I got my car to get taillights to stay on even during daylight.
And I know the text is in Danish but it should e quite easy to translate and else throw me a DM and We'll figure it out

Thank you so much! Now I just have to admit that I'm a complete idiot and need to start at square one to understand this lol

 

[WD Pro]

If you buy euro lights just pick your country / seller that you get them from.

They are handed (not a flat beam), and RHD euros will have the kick up on the wrong side

WD

 

[Xander33]

If you buy euro lights just pick your country / seller that you get them from.

They are handed (not a flat beam), and RHD euros will have the kick up on the wrong side

WD

Thank you for the tip! Any recommendations on places to purchase? Some of the sellers on ebay don't spec where they are from.

 

[WD Pro]

I don't sorry.

Being from the UK I don't really know who your would be best starting with, especially as you don't want the UK lights.

I just gave you the heads up on the beam as I was told Mustangs had a flat cut off making the lights universal between LHD and RHD. I can assure you that based on my 2020 RHD GT that's defo not true, I'm pretty sure I've also seen paper decals on my lights from manufacturing that also identify them as RHD

WD

 

[Xander33]

For anyone interested, I decided to go the labor intense, yet almost free route.....ordered two clear markers from Klearz and figure I'll bake these factory lights, open em' up and place the the reflectors in there. Worst case, I have to spend the same amount the euro lights would have cost me anyway...best case, $70 for two reflectors and I get to paint the stock ones and have the look I wanted. Will update the thread once the come and I have time to open up the stock headlights.

 

[AgentAlex]

For anyone interested, I decided to go the labor intense, yet almost free route.....ordered two clear markers from Klearz and figure I'll bake these factory lights, open em' up and place the the reflectors in there. Worst case, I have to spend the same amount the euro lights would have cost me anyway...best case, $70 for two reflectors and I get to paint the stock ones and have the look I wanted. Will update the thread once the come and I have time to open up the stock headlights.

I was actually about to recommend Klearz until I saw your post. Interested in seeing your results.

 

[Xander33]

I was actually about to recommend Klearz until I saw your post. Interested in seeing your results.

I had never heard of them honestly. Found them a number of pages back in a search. Hopefully it works out well. I’ll document here.

 

[murick]

I guess this is the best place to post my questions.
I am thinking about adding additional lights to my Mach 1 front grill (similar to what @Rhyanski posted here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-mach-1-changes-coming.170623/post-3570717).

I have my "prototyping" grill and the right headlight (thanks to a small hiccup I had on a driving course) and the idea is to build a harness which would plug into the original harness connectors and which will T-split the wiring to the original headlight assembly and the new added light.

The new light is supposed to have five wires (negative, high & low beam, DRL and turn signal). So I would imagine just to connect the new light in parallel to the OEM light, but this is just a naive idea and spurs a few serious questions:

1) Is it even possible? I.e. are the wires connected to the headlight only analog (on/off) signals, or are there any data signals as well?
2) Is it safe to add an additional power draw to the original wiring? I.e. can the wires, the source, the fuses, sustain the additional amperage?

I can read a schema or build a low voltage PCB, but never did anything on the car electrics/electronics and these things really bothers me.

I have looked at the schema posted by @RasJeremy above, and it looks like exactly something I was looking for too, except I have no idea how to relate it to the real connectors (and my Danish is not what it used to be ), so I might need some help there as well.

For what is worthy here are some pics of the right headlight of Euro LHD Mach 1. There are two connectors. The one on the right is four pin right under the white cap with "AML Made in France", it has the pin labeled 1-4, the other one is multi-pole with only 4 pins mounted and only one labeled 12.

Apart from the different identifications lists and other text written on the light back, I found following light/sources descriptions:

(below the multipole white connector)
12V9W (SIG)
12V4W (SUPP PARK)
12V13W (ECE DRL)

(on the outer body mold)
12V26W (LOW BEAM)
12V9W (DRL SAE)

This one is strange, I would guess DRL SAE stands for the DRL in US, why do they put it on the Euro lights which seem to have its own DRL (ECE DRL).

Now the list is missing the high beam identification, plus it is not exactly clear how (if at all) these lists actually should relate to the connectors.

Any comments or pointers are appreciated.

 

[biohazard]

any updates on this? has anyone been able to get them to actually work? i bought some euros off ebay while the body shop had my car since they had to replace the bumper anyways and found out they didn’t work when I went to pick it up! which was of course after the return period had ended. I had to get them to put the old headlights back on for now so I can drive it, but still want to put them on eventually. it just looks so much better without the amber reflector. some guy on ebay is trying to sell some sort of adapter and says he will send a wiring diagram but it’s like $60. for that I would want something plug and play not still having to mess with re-wiring the whole thing as well. any help would be greatly appreciated!

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