Edelbrock vs. Roush

[Guard5.0]

Do you the Roush tune? I noticed you have headers.....

Yep. Used the 90 degree Vibrants to get rid of the CEL

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[69mach1-395]

Keep em coming, just keep in mind it will be an automatic and driven around 5000' elevation, if that matters.

 

[gsxr1300]

You wont need the warranty, as they know the blower wont damage the engine, and they wont warranty a manufacturers defect. So I would go with who makes the most power and has the most advanced tune and that is Whipple.

 

[Obsessed]

The the whipple guy's provided some good comments a out the edelbrock system. Is it all bs, i tend to think not. I would point out that the throttle body for roush and whipple are bigger and less restrictive than edelbrock's. Also if you are concerned with going fast it seems like whipple 1/4 mile times are lower for similar power compared to roush/tvs blowers.

 

[Guard5.0]

Most power, TT. If you want to use a PD blower give it to someone like BoostWorks for something like a 4.2 KB. Whipple makes a great system, but I'm not going there if big power is my goal.

 

[69mach1-395]

Like I said on post one, non-racer here. More power leads to the snow ball effect of upgrades and eventual part failure in my experience.
Here's what bothers me; I lose 15% living at 5000 ft, so NA kind of sux. Also lose another 15% with the drivetrain, so I want at least 30% back.
FI is the only way to do that, right?
I know some think warranties aren't worth the paper they are printed on...

 

[18psi]

If I was going PD, whipple without question would get my money.
If I was at altitude like you, this would be even more so since whipple uses a big blower so you can easily bump up the boost without heating up the charge too much and compensate for the altitude.

I really don't think you're down 30% on power, but you can gain it back with just bolt ons. FI will way more than make up for it. FI will make your car silly fast.

 

[Guard5.0]

Like I said on post one, non-racer here. More power leads to the snow ball effect of upgrades and eventual part failure in my experience.
Here's what bothers me; I lose 15% living at 5000 ft, so NA kind of sux. Also lose another 15% with the drivetrain, so I want at least 30% back.
FI is the only way to do that, right?
I know some think warranties aren't worth the paper they are printed on...

Headers, intake, tune would get this done. Any FI will greatly surpass it. If you just want 25-30% increase stay NA and work with a good tuner.

 

[69mach1-395]

I've not seen over 100hp done with just NA bolt-ons...did I miss something here?

 

[MikeD1]

I think you missed his point. What he's saying is between the altitude & driveline loses a stock GT would be around 300 RWHP where he lives. He wants to get back to the mid 400's, which basically any of the PD blower packages would easily accomplish (and then some).

The warranty is a personal preference thing. For me it was a 'must have' and as of today I'm damn glad I have it. My car has been having vibration issues (driveline related) and I basically dropped it in the dealer's lap & said fix it. They did all the mod work and I don't care what's wrong or who pays to fix it - it's on them to make the car right.

 

[69mach1-395]

^This
So Mike, when did the vibe issue come up. There a long thread on this and it also bothers me.
I'm thinking maybe start completely stock to allow such things to happen before adding FI vs. doing it right away.

 

[gsxr1300]

Whipple and headers he will probably still make around 700rwhp.
especially if he added a can of obntanium.

 

[MikeD1]

I've not seen over 100hp done with just NA bolt-ons...did I miss something here?

If you don't care about warranty, you can do what Steve said and get around 100 hp (headers, intake, exhaust, custom tune).

 

[MikeD1]

^This
So Mike, when did the vibe issue come up. There a long thread on this and it also bothers me.
I'm thinking maybe start completely stock to allow such things to happen before adding FI vs. doing it right away.

My car had the vibe issue from day 1 (see my posts in the big vibe thread for all the stuff they have done so far).

Based on my issues & what others are experiencing in that thread, if I had it to do over, I'd wait to mod the car. Because of the extensive (and expensive) mods, it would be hard for me to lemon law it at this point. So, I'm stuck trying to get it fixed. This is round 5 or 6 (I'm losing count) and my confidence is waning + I simply don't have the time to keep dragging it 70 miles (each way) back & forth. If it was 'stock' or close to it, I'd file & walk @ this point and start over.

Also, ANY Mustang you're looking at (even if you ordered it) - I'd take a LONG test drive over a variety of road surfaces & speeds.
IF the vibration issue is present - don't walk, RUN away from that deal !

 

[Guard5.0]

Actually we went from which SC with a warranty, all of which will easily add 200+ whp to reclaiming driveline and atmospheric pressure losses of ~100 hp. Whipple, Roush, or Edelbrock will all accomplish this easily with a warranty. My earlier point was to research the cooling system with the Edelbrock, I know the Whipple and Roush work well. If warranty is a must I would go Whipple simply because I'm not crazy with the base Roush tune and know nothing of the Edelbrock.

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