Cookiemonster
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 79
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- Location
- South of You
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 M6 GT
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks for the incredibly detailed and long post! There are sections of the wiring that I can't inspect without tearing the entire thing out from the firewall, so it looks like I'll have to set time to do that, since everything else I can find looks good - vacuum lines, fuses, etc.Here again not being an expert on turbos I failedto think of this. So I am learning along with you. The controller is in control of the waste gate. If the waste gate is not responding it may be stuck or whatever controls it is broken electrically or mechanically. I am not sure if the waste gate would have a default level on it, but this could elude to your problem as well. SC's don't have waste gates obviously because they are crank driven rather than exhaust driven. So I failed to factor that into the equation. You have ruled out the BOV and this is very good. Its great troubleshooting. Now its time to check the pressure side of the system.
First check the 5amp fuse on the boost device. It is a red wire according to the install manual. If blown replace and try again. If it continues to blow you have a short in the system and you need to isolate it. If the fuse is good move on.
Next inspect the hoses from the solenoid to the waste gate(s). Fix any cracks or broken lines. If all is good move on.
As I understand it this device uses pulse wave modulation to control the on off pulse state of a solenoid that applies pressure to the the wastegate to generate more or less boost.
The signal going to the solenoid gets there via a gray and brown wire. Make sure those wires have not gotten pulled loose, pinched or broken anywhere along the wire run.
Under normal operation I would assume that there should be some air venting out of the vent tube on the solenoid (see the install manual attached assuming it is the correct one). I am assuming and it should change as you throttle up or off. You should also be able to feel the solenoid turning on and off. If not the next step would be to get out a meter and see if there is a DC signal 3.5 - 12vdc being generated to the solenoid. If the signal appears proper the next thing would be to check resistance of the solenoid coil. I am guessing it will be somewhere around 30 ohms +/- 15 ohms (E/I=R so 12vdc divided by 2.5 - estimating max curernt on the solenoid would be 2.5 amps at full 12vdc command) IF ti reads infinity it is bad and needs to be replaced. If this all checks good...your problem resides possibly within the wastegate.
https://830533.app.netsuite.com/cor...4677&c=830533&h=908eabb7550ad12a9064&_xt=.pdf
Good luck. I troubleshoot for a living. This is new stuff to me but easy enough to see the control process through and provide you some basic electrical troubleshooting if you have a meter and no how to use one. Best of luck and hope this helps you out.
Turbo folks please correct me if this process is wrong or needs some redirection. It seems logical based on the issues I have helped my friend resolve on his crane and his 2008 F250 diesel.
I have a feeling something with the solenoid itself went bad, I just wish I had an EASY way to remove it from the picture to see what happens, but without the eboost, I have no way to monitor how much boost I'm actually making...just butt dyno.
Maybe I just need to pony up and get a boost least and get rid of the eboost altogether...
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