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Driveshaft in an IRS

SNOOPY

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Myself being more of a road course guy than a dragstrip guy, wanting some thoughts on upgrading the driveshaft in an IRS car?

I know the rotational weight savings is a plus, but is it really the only thing seeing that the driveshaft doesn't get near as much movement/abuse as a live axle car?

At the cost of $750-$1300 depending on aluminum or Carbon Fiber, just trying to justify the cost.

Convince me. :cool:

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wildcatgoal

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I'm waiting on the Shaftmasters 3.5" aluminum to come out. Weight savings to price ratio there seems to be the best with this option. They're doing testing still, but hopefully it comes out soon.

From what I know, carbon fiber is nice if you have FI and a stick shift - it has some give to avoid breaking stuff. With an auto or an NA car, I personally would not be itching for a CF driveshaft. Especially in a road course application since I'm not really ever launching.

But I've road coursed with the regular old drive shaft and, IMHO, there are more important things to consider changing in the driveline to improve drive-ability in that context, like going with a lightened flywheel and a non-organic clutch design. And I think I'd rather have lighter brake system (at least lighter rotors) than a lighter drive shaft.
 
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SNOOPY

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Thank you for the input. CF may be overkill. I am working on other things too, concentrating mainly on suspension for now. Only do HDPEs 3-4 times a year. Looking at some easy things to change like the driveshaft, but considering its worth also.
 

Enzo

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My buddy just got the aluminum dss on and..... there is quite a difference especially if your road racing as well. The throttle response is highly noticeable compared to stock. You get a lot more response and less play and more feel of the car. Also along with that what i noticed was less play compared to stock. When putting it into gear I did not feel the clunking or thumping that you do with stock.
 
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SNOOPY

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That sounds like a great reason to update too, thanks.
 

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Brazenbuck

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Less rotational mass and elimination of the guibo. I wouldn't put a high horsepower car on a road course or drag strip with a guibo. I've got a DSS unit for a GT manual to sell. PM me for a good deal of your interested.
 
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SNOOPY

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Still considering this. I see some talk about the pinion angle possibly being off if you change a driveshaft.

Looking at the factory set up the 2 pieces of the 2 piece driveshaft are very very close to straight, so adding a 1 piece shouldn't be a big deal.

I understand if adding major power you may need to reset pinion angle to accommodate, but any other reasons for the concern over pinion angle when going to a 1 piece?

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DrDane

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I'm waiting on the Shaftmasters 3.5" aluminum to come out. Weight savings to price ratio there seems to be the best with this option. They're doing testing still, but hopefully it comes out soon.

From what I know, carbon fiber is nice if you have FI and a stick shift - it has some give to avoid breaking stuff. With an auto or an NA car, I personally would not be itching for a CF driveshaft. Especially in a road course application since I'm not really ever launching.

But I've road coursed with the regular old drive shaft and, IMHO, there are more important things to consider changing in the driveline to improve drive-ability in that context, like going with a lightened flywheel and a non-organic clutch design. And I think I'd rather have lighter brake system (at least lighter rotors) than a lighter drive shaft.

Waiting? I put mine on weeks ago, feels good worth the $549.99 and free shipping.:headbang:

http://shaftmasters.com/3aldrfomu20v11.html
 

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Yeah, they do have one for our manual V8's, but they are *currently out of stock*. I wasn't really going to get a different driveshaft, but now after looking into a few things, I think I'm going to start looking around. Sometimes they pop up in the classifieds section on the site from time to time.
 
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SNOOPY

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I've been seeing them for Automatics all the time. Hardly see a used one for a manual. :(
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