Don't buy a catch can unless...

[michail71]

I highly recomend only using the FL-500S OE filters from ford because many of the aftermarket filters DO NOT have anti-drain back valves. The factory filter keeps the oil system pressurized for startups to everything is lubricated immediately instead of just relying on the oils film to lubricate the engine until oil starts to flow. This reduces cold start wear. So far I have not found a single after market filter with an anti-drain back valve, so no need to deviate there.

I thought most of the higher end filters on the market had anti-drainback valves and it was a rubber vs. silicone thing? Is there something different in the FL-500S compared to a M1 extended, Wix, Napa, etc.?

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[SVT-DADDY]

I thought most of the higher end filters on the market had anti-drainback valves and it was a rubber vs. silicone thing? Is there something different in the FL-500S compared to a M1 extended, Wix, Napa, etc.?

I run royal purple, just double checked and it indeed does have an anti drain back valve.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/royal-purple-oil-filters/

 

[bootlegger]

The purpose of the catch can is for performance reasons during track applications. Track typically invovles sustained high engine loads and builds up the greatest thermal demands on the engine.

Oil WILL boil off and enter the combustion chamber. While it won't hurt the engine mechanically and the ECU will pull timing when necessary to keep things running safe, your loosing power.

Catch cans can help track cars run maximum timing as much as possible during the entire track session. On a street car you typically don't see those kinds of sustained thermal loads, but even on a stock 5.0 it can be an issue. So it all depends on what your doing with the car. Some applications it makes sense, other applications it does not.

Motor Trend noted that their PP GT seemed to pull timing after a few laps on their test track. While MC-5W-20 is actually quite a good oil from a lubrication and shear standpoint and has a good viscosity index (164), it has marginal NOACK ratings and is prone to boil off.

My guess, the factory oil was diluting fuel and the ECU had to start pulling some timing to avoid knock. I'll bet their 2015 PP GT test car would not have pulled timing with a catch can or a newer Dexos 1 Gen 2 rated oil from Mobil, Valvoline, Amsoil etc.

Dexos 1 Gen 2 or ILSAC GF-5 Plus specs are designed to meet TDI requirements for LSPI resistance, however it benefits NA engines as well because it reduces the tendency of the oil to cause knock in general.

So if you track the car or do any sort of driving with sustained high RPM and heavy throttle operation, a catch can and Dexos 1 Gen 2 or ILSAC GF-5 Plus certified oil could go a long way in helping you put down peak power consistently instead of power fading.

I just had an experience with this myself hot roding around twising and winding roads in the foot hills around here. I was on the throttle pretty consistently for about 20 mintues and I could tell it started to loose some edge as things heated up even though nothing was over heated.

After I got on the highway and drove for about 20~30 minutes and the car cooled down, I needed to get back on the throttle and it definitely had it's edge back. This is the second time I've experienced some minor fade in power after sustained high RPM and throttle in more "track like" driving situations. It just looses that "edge" it normally has as things start to heat up after sustained throttle usage.

Mind you it was 90F out, AC on and 600 lbs of passengers which is not the same as driving on an actual track, but probably darn close in terms of how it thermally loads the engine. My oil temps were at about 3/4 of the way up the green on the "idiot" gauge, so I was not into the nanny zone yet and the idiot coolant gauge didn't indicate any abnormal temps either. Nothing was over it's limits, but things were definitely running hotter than your typical day to day or on-ramp 2-3 pulls.

I have a Power Pack 2 and Corsa Sport Cat Back installed on my 2016 PP GT, rest of the engine is stock. I'm running factory MC 5W-20 semi-syn but will change over to something better once it hit 20k here pretty soon. I'm not sure if a better quality oil is enough by itself, I'll have to test that out first, but if it's not I'll be adding a catch can, probably the Ford Performance option as it's cheap and easy to swap in / out when I know I'm going to push the car hard for long intervals. For daily there's no need to have it in there.

I've done this kind of driving before on other back roads for 20~30 minute intervals and also experienced some fade in power both stock and with the Power Pack 2 so I'm looking into getting a catch can and better oil to combat that issue.

I'm not the only one, even their bone stock 2015 PP GT experience some fade even though nothing was over temp:

https://www.caranddriver.com/features/ford-mustang-gt-at-lightning-lap-2015-feature

And I quote:

How many guys adding catch cans regularly run road courses?

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