Differential Axle Seal and Metal - 60k Miles

[WolfMxbee]

Hey so I just got a 2019 Mustang Eco, I just drained the differential fluid and was pure black and this came out on the drain plug

And the driver axle seal is leaking already only at 60k, I opted for 4year warranty but is this a wear item? Or can I fight it because the dealer should've done a full point inspected like they claimed? I am a Mechanic so if I have to replace it myself then not an issue but disappointed in the dealer

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[Basspro302]

The metal corkscrew came off a lathe, i have never pulled apart a diff, engine or trans that had corkscrew shavings. Well at least not yet. Idk if axle seals are covered you would have to look through the warranty verbiage.

 

[WolfMxbee]

I noticed after I change the fluid that the vehicle was slower accelerating like in a high gear but after driving it a little bit more I noticed the shifter feels smoother going into gears (manual) however it still Jerks a bit at low rpms but has improved, I am swapping out the trans fluid and diff fluid again soon but just waiting for my BG fluid to come in

 

[WolfMxbee]

Okay so dealer won't cover it from signs of previous abuse that was already there before I purchased it so now looks like I'll only use the warranty for trans or engine replacement if I'll ever need it haha to tell myself to make me feel better, so I been researching.. I love canyon carving and wanted experience from 3.55 eco guys and 3.31 guys. I have a 3.31 and was wondering if at this point its worth it to upgrade to an iron diff 3.55 since I heard if you have to change one out, opt away from the aluminum which I assume is for weakness? Also how do I know the difference from a auto and a manual pinion as I know people say there different and l have to buy a new output shaft? Also any luck on finding the part numbers for the torsen diffs 3.55

 

[ice445]

That's pretty normal on a diff that's never been serviced, I wouldn't worry about it honestly. The ford gear set from the factory comes coated with a black oxide to prevent corrosion, so it all ends up in the oil as it wears in. The axle seal may be leaking because the fluid was never changed though (even though the manual says it's "lifetime"), or its just bad luck.

Honestly the casing of the diff doesn't matter as much as people say, the reason they use aluminum for the auto ones is because the auto is electronically limited to prevent too much driveline shock, whereas with the manual cars clutch drops are potentially more abusive. At least for the GT, the eco may have aluminum for both housings because the engine makes less power.

If you really want to rebuild it already, just find a 3.55 or 3.73 gearset and get a new aftermarket mechanical, I know giken makes a pretty good one. Not sure if a GT diff will work with an ecoboost or not.

 

[WolfMxbee]

Thank you for the response and my main concern about the differential failing is because I notice when I turn at low speeds, the passenger rear starts to make a binding sound and feels like a welded diff and skips so figure I might as well upgrade it but so far has been lasting, it was scary at first for the thought of being left stranded but has new fluid and hasn't gotten worse so lived with it for a bit and have been to the canyons with no issues, I have looked at my diff and noticed it hasn't been leaking but can't believe that is because it has new fluid now

 

[ice445]

Thank you for the response and my main concern about the differential failing is because I notice when I turn at low speeds, the passenger rear starts to make a binding sound and feels like a welded diff and skips so figure I might as well upgrade it but so far has been lasting, it was scary at first for the thought of being left stranded but has new fluid and hasn't gotten worse so lived with it for a bit and have been to the canyons with no issues, I have looked at my diff and noticed it hasn't been leaking but can't believe that is because it has new fluid now

That's just because you didn't use enough friction modifier, that's called diff chatter. The factory "trak lok" differentialy is a clutch type limited slip. Without the proper amount of modifier the clutches will grab at low speeds and loads and create the chatter. Factory fill uses 3.28oz of the motorcraft Xl-3. A lot of times with these diffs in particular the aftermarket fluid, despite being rated as limited slip compatible, does not have enough friction modifier for these clutches. You can safely drop in an ounce of Xl-3 at a time until it stops chattering.

This chatter is pretty hard on the clutches so hopefully you didn't drive it a ton like that, or else you probably took a few thousand miles off the lifespan.

 

[Cory S]

That's just because you didn't use enough friction modifier, that's called diff chatter. The factory "trak lok" differentialy is a clutch type limited slip. Without the proper amount of modifier the clutches will grab at low speeds and loads and create the chatter. Factory fill uses 3.28oz of the motorcraft Xl-3. A lot of times with these diffs in particular the aftermarket fluid, despite being rated as limited slip compatible, does not have enough friction modifier for these clutches. You can safely drop in an ounce of Xl-3 at a time until it stops chattering.

This chatter is pretty hard on the clutches so hopefully you didn't drive it a ton like that, or else you probably took a few thousand miles off the lifespan.

I'm thinking he's got a little more going on there, then the occasional "chatter"? I don't use modifier, and haven't in over 20 years ( About 8 T-lok diffs and many gearset installs), and RARELY ever got more than slight chatter/noise that was also super occasional. He made it sound literally like he now has an almost welded diff LOL......

 

[WolfMxbee]

That's what it feels like and I have friends who have welded differentials, I ordered some xl3 but we'll see

 

[jlchoutex]

I probably wouldn't have changed the fluid so soon.

 

[WolfMxbee]

I change it about 2k miles ago, that's when I noticed the metal but the skipping did happen after I changes it about 500 miles after or so

 

[AZlb5.0]

I think you’re screwed on your warranty. If they denied a claim for “previous abuse” that will trickle down to everything else mechanical to include engine and trans.

 

[ice445]

I'm thinking he's got a little more going on there, then the occasional "chatter"? I don't use modifier, and haven't in over 20 years ( About 8 T-lok diffs and many gearset installs), and RARELY ever got more than slight chatter/noise that was also super occasional. He made it sound literally like he now has an almost welded diff LOL......

That's surprising, I've heard of more than a few people complaining of consistent low speed chatter without enough modifier. Guess it just depends

 

[WolfMxbee]

They said that it doesn't look like it's a manufacturer defect and that they don't cover differentials as it's a wear item, but I tried to fight it on the dealer and tried to get the dealer to replace it but denied because they said I should've came to them for the service and I asked if they change diff fluid and said no so I feel like they just don't care but they assured me it wouldn't affect my warranty unless it did become a claim

 

[RagmopInKona]

That's surprising, I've heard of more than a few people complaining of consistent low speed chatter without enough modifier. Guess it just depends

Ya depends on when a user thinks they know better/more than the engineering team that designed the parts to last longer than 15 thousand miles. lack of the friction fluid ends with a limited slip that is now a one wheel wonder.

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