DD DRL Boards

[Kaps]

I bet you will after seeing how I did it. Its just knowing where to start and how to finish. The guide I put together will explain it all.

I don't want to learn installing DRLs either (just like photography)

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[CasperGT]

I don't want to learn installing DRLs either (just like photography)

Hahaha... You crack me up Kaps!

 

[car]

I bet you will after seeing how I did it. Its just knowing where to start and how to finish. The guide I put together will explain it all.

How about we get some ppl together in Perth pay your airfare and you can do all the cars together

I'm sort of joking but I think it could work if others are interested.

 

[phil545]

OK so I completed a step by step process log with photos that explaines how I split my headlights. I actually built a webpage using WIX free websites. So far I have only completed the oven bake method. It has its own page. I am now working on the page that demonstrates my "Heat Gun Method". I must stress, whilst I did it, and it is something I think most could do, I Do Not recommend you do it unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for the outcome! This website I put together is to explain my project only and is not intended to be a commercial instruction set. That being said, I am sure you will find it an ineresting read. Warning...If you decide to do this and damage your lights its your own problem.

Let me know what you think?

Here is the link. Because its a free website they have their ads on it. Also, the steps are a little jumbled but I did label them. Was just a free website quirk. But if you tap on step1 you can also arrow along step by step with full size images as well.

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlightsplit

Crazy mate and so detailed! I definitely won't be trying it myself lol

 

[CasperGT]

Crazy mate and so detailed! I definitely won't be trying it myself lol

To be honest Phil, if I didn't work out the heat gun method I wouldnt do it again. The oven method was a total bitch. But the heat gun method was a breeze with bugger all damage to fix. Hope to have that page finished tomorrow.

 

[goff]

OK so I completed a step by step process log with photos that explaines how I split my headlights. I actually built a webpage using WIX free websites. So far I have only completed the oven bake method. It has its own page. I am now working on the page that demonstrates my "Heat Gun Method". I must stress, whilst I did it, and it is something I think most could do, I Do Not recommend you do it unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for the outcome! This website I put together is to explain my project only and is not intended to be a commercial instruction set. That being said, I am sure you will find it an ineresting read. Warning...If you decide to do this and damage your lights its your own problem.

Let me know what you think?

Here is the link. Because its a free website they have their ads on it. Also, the steps are a little jumbled but I did label them. Was just a free website quirk. But if you tap on step1 you can also arrow along step by step with full size images as well.

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlightsplit

Allan you are a godsend, I have been putting off installing DD DRL Boards for ages , Did not like the oven method :eyebulge: , However your heat gun is perfect as you can control the complete process ,Cant wait for you second link,I will defiantly be having a shot at this I see the lights are from the US Mustang so the LED's are already installed , I believe the Euro Mustangs have all the bits less the LED's , Again GREAT work :first:

 

[Kaps]

OK so I completed a step by step process log with photos that explaines how I split my headlights. I actually built a webpage using WIX free websites. So far I have only completed the oven bake method. It has its own page. I am now working on the page that demonstrates my "Heat Gun Method". I must stress, whilst I did it, and it is something I think most could do, I Do Not recommend you do it unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for the outcome! This website I put together is to explain my project only and is not intended to be a commercial instruction set. That being said, I am sure you will find it an ineresting read. Warning...If you decide to do this and damage your lights its your own problem.

Let me know what you think?

Here is the link. Because its a free website they have their ads on it. Also, the steps are a little jumbled but I did label them. Was just a free website quirk. But if you tap on step1 you can also arrow along step by step with full size images as well.

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlightsplit

One word description "LEGEND" :first: but I still don't want to learn.

 

[Kade744]

Very keen to see the heat gun method write up.

Would love to have these!

 

[CasperGT]

Allan you are a godsend, I have been putting off installing DD DRL Boards for ages , Did not like the oven method :eyebulge: , However your heat gun is perfect as you can control the complete process ,Cant wait for you second link,I will defiantly be having a shot at this I see the lights are from the US Mustang so the LED's are already installed , I believe the Euro Mustangs have all the bits less the LED's , Again GREAT work :first:

Godfrey you would not believe how much easier the heat gun method is. I put the oven method up first because it not only tells the whole story that all the youtude videos do not tell you when it comes to the oven method, but it is the learning journey that I am travelling with these Headlights and I want people to understand the difference between both methods.

Because I had extreme reshaping to do with the oevn method I noticed a behavioural aspect of the plastic under certain temperatures. I had nothing to loose so I just went for whatever it took. This observation of how the plastic responded gave me clues for using the heat gun. I was totally blown away when I tried my thoughts on how this might work.

In fact, the heatgun method I applied worked so quick and I was so caught up in the moment that I forgot to take the photos. I had the bugger totally split in just under 45 minutes not 6 bloody hours! But I put it all back together and did a retrospective photographic step by step reference.

I am sure this method will make the oven method obsolete around the world. It is chalk and cheese and is why I wanted to show the oven method first. To help others make informed decisions before diving in.

 

[CasperGT]

One word description "LEGEND" :first: but I still don't want to learn.

Haha...cheers mate. But I think the word is "Lunatic"...:lol: spending a bucket of money on lights and set about baking, bending, twisting and reshaping them.... Yep, Lunatic...:headbonk:

Your "I don't want to learn" signature comment is catching on...:lol: My wife quotes that every time now! Cheers for that mate :lol::cheers:

 

[mix 302]

I can only see a "Group Fit In Queensland" for this one!!!!;)

 

[Gnome]

Awesome write up on opening the headlight, if you have a US version with the factory leds and want to change them not really much choice but to open them up. Will be interested to see what the light looks like with the heat gun method, with the hole in the bottom method no sign at all from above that the light has been opened, but fiddly to get the boards in through the hole, like building a ship in a bottle. If you can get the same result with a heat gun that would make the process a lot easier.

For anyone that has already, or is planning on, fitting up the DD switch back led boards with the sequential blinkers a few things to watch out for. If you keep your existing parking lights connected the led DRLs will flicker when the alternator cuts in. So you may not notice it at first if the battery is fully charged, but if you leave the headlights on for say 10 mins and then start the car up you will see it, also happens when driving as the alternator cuts in and out. This is only when you have the parking lights on and the leds are in the dim mode. If you use a 1W led in the park light instead of the OEM globe it goes away, but using a 5W led will have the same result as the factory globe = flicker.

Removing the factory blinker globe and only using the sequential leds will cause intermittent "hyper flashing", the indicator on the dash blinks quickly to indicate a fault, but they still flash at the correct speed. To fix this you will need resistors on the blinker circuit. Also someone pointed out that disconnecting the original blinker may not be a good idea as the visibility of the led sequential blinkers at night being so close to the headlight, may not be as good as the originals. Not sure on this one so for now I have left the original also connected.

The instructions with the led boards have the colours for the DRL and park light wires back to front on mine. Check before you hard wire them!

The flickering issue is being addressed by DD, but can easily be fixed by adding a diode and a small capacitor if needed. The US cars are different and it is only the export ones that have this issue, there was no way they would have know about the signals on the parking light circuit that cause this as they don't have them on the US spec cars.

Guess I will be seeing Mustangs coming the other way with the tri bars on in the not to distant future...

 

[66 WAS]

I can only see a "Group Fit In Queensland" for this one!!!!;)

i would love these but couldnt do it myself.
how about i just pay for a set already done.... then give you my lights in return

 

[CasperGT]

Awesome write up on opening the headlight, if you have a US version with the factory leds and want to change them not really much choice but to open them up. Will be interested to see what the light looks like with the heat gun method, with the hole in the bottom method no sign at all from above that the light has been opened, but fiddly to get the boards in through the hole, like building a ship in a bottle. If you can get the same result with a heat gun that would make the process a lot easier.

For anyone that has already, or is planning on, fitting up the DD switch back led boards with the sequential blinkers a few things to watch out for. If you keep your existing parking lights connected the led DRLs will flicker when the alternator cuts in. So you may not notice it at first if the battery is fully charged, but if you leave the headlights on for say 10 mins and then start the car up you will see it, also happens when driving as the alternator cuts in and out. This is only when you have the parking lights on and the leds are in the dim mode. If you use a 1W led in the park light instead of the OEM globe it goes away, but using a 5W led will have the same result as the factory globe = flicker.

Removing the factory blinker globe and only using the sequential leds will cause intermittent "hyper flashing", the indicator on the dash blinks quickly to indicate a fault, but they still flash at the correct speed. To fix this you will need resistors on the blinker circuit. Also someone pointed out that disconnecting the original blinker may not be a good idea as the visibility of the led sequential blinkers at night being so close to the headlight, may not be as good as the originals. Not sure on this one so for now I have left the original also connected.

The instructions with the led boards have the colours for the DRL and park light wires back to front on mine. Check before you hard wire them!

The flickering issue is being addressed by DD, but can easily be fixed by adding a diode and a small capacitor if needed. The US cars are different and it is only the export ones that have this issue, there was no way they would have know about the signals on the parking light circuit that cause this as they don't have them on the US spec cars.

Guess I will be seeing Mustangs coming the other way with the tri bars on in the not to distant future...

Thats very interesting John. The part that puzzled me with the cutting hole option is that when I pulled the US assembly apart there is a black backing plate that sits behind the DRL LED boards and would obstruct any attempt other than splitting them open. So I am assuming the EU assembly is missing this backing plate.

I seen an Ebay listing a while back for a Cambus (think thats how you spell it) pig tail that connects between the lights and harness which apparantly resolves the flickering issues. Apparantly it is the ECU detecting an out of spec current variation under load and can even result in a dash error code. The pigtail has a diode to restrict current trickle-back and the capacitor as a kind of choke filter. But who knows? I tried getting a schematic but Ford are very protective at this stage.

I was told today by a reputable source that the DRL's are not an issue in Australia. Its an Issue in a couple of countries in Europe specs and ADR has no conflict with them. This explains why we see so many vehicles with crazy DRL's higher, brighter and in some cases dozens of them in strings that seemed more aggressive than the mustangs. I often wondered why but its actually not an issue at all for us. Apparantly.

I was thinking I would swap the fog light drl for the tri-bars. I dont like both at once as it looses the aggressive look of the tri bars in my opinion. I wonder if this would resolve the whole current under load issue?

Have been out all day so I wont get the heat gun method up until tomorrow now. But I am convinced it is way better than the hole method.

 

[CasperGT]

i would love these but couldnt do it myself.
how about i just pay for a set already done.... then give you my lights in return

I am not jumping in at this stage, but have been thinking of buying one EU set, splitting and selling already split with a token added cost for my time and then repeating the process one set at a time. But I am also hesitant as I don't want to end up with dramas. My heart says do it to help others, my brain says stay away from it...:frusty::frusty::frusty:

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