Coilovers without lowering?

[Shadow277]

Many coil overs have reduced shock/strut droop length, which can cause big problems if a tire reaches max droop too soon.

I am on 2019 premium wheels so is that still an issue?

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[shogun32]

has nothing to do with the wheels but length of travel of the piston-shaft. at full droop there needs to be shaft left over even if it's compressing an internal top-out bumper as a consequence. Though short of G-out crests (rally course) or hitting massive curbs (T4 Olton Park, UK) so your wheels are 18" in the air and driving on 2 wheels, it's generally not a problem unless it's the cheap-sh*t $1000/set coil-overs that didn't do their engineering correctly.

 

[Shadow277]

has nothing to do with the wheels but length of travel of the piston-shaft. at full droop there needs to be shaft left over even if it's compressing an internal top-out bumper as a consequence. Though short of G-out crests (rally course) or hitting massive curbs (T4 Olton Park, UK) so your wheels are 18" in the air and driving on 2 wheels, it's generally not a problem unless it's the cheap-sh*t $1000/set coil-overs that didn't do their engineering correctly.

Thank you for the explaination. I have a better understanding on this now.

 

[GT 550]

To elaborate, I want it stiff for road course but then adjust it to be soft when I take road trips woth my wife.

It's not really achievable unless your wife has a very high level of tolerance. Spring and damping rates need to be matched and spring rates optimised for road course won't play well with damping that's suitable for comfort and vice versa. A road course spring needs a road course optimised damper which even at its softest setting will still be relatively harsh. There will be some difference but you can't just turn a knob and go from road course to comfort.

You might be able to do something with progressive springs and spacers but it'll still be a compromise. IMHO you need to pick if it'll be a racer or a cruiser primarily, and optimise for that with some limited ability to adjust the other way.

 

[Dana Pants]

has nothing to do with the wheels but length of travel of the piston-shaft. at full droop there needs to be shaft left over even if it's compressing an internal top-out bumper as a consequence. Though short of G-out crests (rally course) or hitting massive curbs (T4 Olton Park, UK) so your wheels are 18" in the air and driving on 2 wheels, it's generally not a problem unless it's the cheap-sh*t $1000/set coil-overs that didn't do their engineering correctly.

in my s197, it was possible to reach full droop on the rear with Koni shocks and stock springs autocrossing (they were shorter than stock) and it was a pain in the ass. Car would randomly go into a slide.

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