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Best drop-in speakers?

FreePenguin

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Not a clue man

Just I did it, and my gf In car and we both agreed it was cleaner crisper less muddy. And more bass.

Turned it on, off on off

Everytime, eq off sounded just way better
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Heggs550

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Not a clue man

Just I did it, and my gf In car and we both agreed it was cleaner crisper less muddy. And more bass.

Turned it on, off on off

Everytime, eq off sounded just way better
Just did a little more looking into this and ordered the wired OBD writer. Glad to try a $25 mod first haha. And wouldn't hurt to have forscan for other things too. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll see if I want to order the speakers after this little fix đź‘Ťđź‘Ť
 

ice445

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I keep seeing this about disabling the “factory EQ” and I would like to know more. What is disabling it actually doing? Specifically? Is there a before and after frequency curve I can look at? Can someone tell me what frequencies are boosted or cut on the factory EQ? Does disabling it alter the crossover points for the different speakers? Is there a change in time delay settings?

I have seen quite a few conflicting details about it and a lot of non-technical things like “it sounds better” but very little actual technical detail.

I would like to see some of that technical detail.
From what I understand the factory eq profile is set in the software and non adjustable. It features substantial bass rolloff at higher volumes to protect the factory speakers. As far as other things it may affect, im not sure. If it's rolling bass off a cliff it's probably applying that over most other frequencies too.
 

FreePenguin

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Just did a little more looking into this and ordered the wired OBD writer. Glad to try a $25 mod first haha. And wouldn't hurt to have forscan for other things too. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll see if I want to order the speakers after this little fix đź‘Ťđź‘Ť

Really consider snipping the center speaker afterwards
It really sounded better and balanced
 

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FreePenguin

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If you could use my 9 speaker amp and acm

I can send then to you
I have no use for them

I don’t know if they are plug and play with your car
 

Mike Pfeifer

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I bought the Powerbass Ford specific component set and will try these out in a few days- saw a decent deal for them on Amazon and decided to jump on it. I’m a little concerned about the tweeter in the pillar being too loud due to the impedance change from 8 to 4 ohms, but I feel the factory ones are not loud enough so we’ll see. I suppose I could add a 1-2 ohm resistor inline to see if that helps. I’ve seen a lot of posts talking about the factory tweeters being too loud and people backing the treble way off to compensate. So either I have way different taste or something is different with mine. Actually, I feel the door midrange is the weak point, it seems to have a bad resonance around 1.5 to 2.5 kHz that I find really unpleasant. Def going to find a solution to that. I’ll post any updates when I get around to making any changes.
 
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Heggs550

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If you could use my 9 speaker amp and acm

I can send then to you
I have no use for them

I don’t know if they are plug and play with your car
I really appreciate the offer, but the Alpine dealio I installed has a little amp built in that adds power to the speakers as well.
 

FreePenguin

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Offer stands to anyone w base- idk if they have the ability to use them

If they think they can use an amp and acm from 2017 mustang premium 9 speaker system. 1000 miles on them when removed

Can have them just pay shipping
 
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Heggs550

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Played around with FORScan this weekend, did the EQ "delete", and it definitely made it sound more crisp. I can see why Ford did it to protect the speakers, they don't sound very healthy at higher volumes lol. Guess my next step will be the Powerbass speakers, but it does sound better overall at reasonable volumes now. For a $25 piece of hardware, worth it to make that change and some other tweaks just for fun :thumbsup:
 

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FreePenguin

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If you toss aftermarket same ohm speakers as oem Itl handle the power and sound just fine.

If I ever blew these oem I’d prob toss new set in. People do takeoffs periodically
 
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Heggs550

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If you toss aftermarket same ohm speakers as oem Itl handle the power and sound just fine.

If I ever blew these oem I’d prob toss new set in. People do takeoffs periodically
I thought you were running the Powerbass speakers as well? Are those the same ohm as OEM?

Also forgot to note, since I have the plug and play Alpine amp/sub, I figured I'd also try the line level out code. That didn't go so well, it took away 80% of my power/volume. Makes sense since the amp is plug and play with the factory wiring, but worth a try to see the change.
 

FreePenguin

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I thought you were running the Powerbass speakers as well? Are those the same ohm as OEM?

Also forgot to note, since I have the plug and play Alpine amp/sub, I figured I'd also try the line level out code. That didn't go so well, it took away 80% of my power/volume. Makes sense since the amp is plug and play with the factory wiring, but worth a try to see the change.

when I put a 12 speaker amp in, the car that it came out of, had 2 ohm door speakers, and 2 ohm rear shelf speakers.

my 9 speaker car, had 4 ohm 6.5 door speakers, and 4ohm 6.5 shelf speakers

since I put the 12 speaker amp in my car, I put 2 ohm 6.5 powerbass in door, (not coaxial) just regular 6.5 like it was. and I put 3ohm (not 2ohm or 4ohm) gto629's in the rear. I read they was great, the high sensitivity makes them as loud as 2 ohm would be, and coaxial (12 speaker type speaker) vs my single 9 speaker, it just worked.

but all the other speakers are left alone, (4 speakers I guess) 2 tweeters, and 2 3.5's since I disabled center channel

would recommend this to anyone not wanting to amp the car etc all the aftermarket stuff. sounds great
 

Superspirit

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I thought you were running the Powerbass speakers as well? Are those the same ohm as OEM?

Also forgot to note, since I have the plug and play Alpine amp/sub, I figured I'd also try the line level out code. That didn't go so well, it took away 80% of my power/volume. Makes sense since the amp is plug and play with the factory wiring, but worth a try to see the change.
When you did the line level out, did you drop the alpine unit down and change the amp settings for low level? If not that's why. I am running the same setup with aftermarket speakers. And there is plenty of power.
 
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Heggs550

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When you did the line level out, did you drop the alpine unit down and change the amp settings for low level? If not that's why. I am running the same setup with aftermarket speakers. And there is plenty of power.
I didn't even consider that, thanks for the tip! I really hope I can reach the button without dropping it, that was a complete PITA to get in place. I believe I can.

Did you run it without doing the line level out first by chance? I'm curious if there's a worthwhile difference. With it setup the way I have it, it should be getting power from the cd player PLUS the added amp. If I turn it it the other way, I'd think it would ONLY get power from the added amp, right? There might be plenty of juice from the amp, but I'm wondering which one would sound better/cleaner...
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