Car randomly sputtering and switching off. Then working normal.

[sk47]

Car ran well for 4300 kilometers.

Now problem is intermitent. Sometimes it starts and runs. Then shuts down.
No error codes.

Hello; Let me refresh. You drove the car for 4300 Km. Then you dumped some liters of fuel into the tank from plastic jugs that had been in the trunk for some months. After that the car began to have running issues. Correct so far??
If so the key seems to be the fuel from the jugs. I made some assumptions you have not corrected. One being you have run at least two full tanks of fuel since dumping the fuel from the jugs. Is this correct?
If not correct I can see how the fuel from the jugs is still part of the issue. Some ways this can be an issue is the old fuel itself and/or some sort of dirt/grit in the jugs. Ethanol added to gasoline is known to go bad sooner than pure gasoline. I store fuel in jugs for may mowers. I always add a STABLE like additive to the plastic jugs.
Debris can clog the filter which surrounds the pickup at the fuel pump inside the gas tank. Replacing the fuel pump will get you a new filter but will not remove grit or debris. Perhaps the mechanic can check the filter when replacing the pump. If that filter is clogged may be an indication of junk in the tank that might clog things up again.

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[CrackedHorn]

Hello; This is why I suggest to not overfill a cars fuel tank. The evaporative system has a number of valves and a canister usually filled with something like activated charcoal. The idea is to trap fuel vapors that in the past simply evaporated into the air.
One problem with a truly sealed system is as the fuel is used up by the engine a vacuum effect will happen in the gas tank unless somehow air pressure can be equalized between outside air and the inside air of the tank. Simple enough for sure just have a small opening with a one way valve.
The bigger problem happens when we fill up a tank and let the car sit a few days. The fuel comes from a storage tank usually in the ground around here. Ground stored fuel will be at a cool temperature in the mid 50 degrees F. Fill up our tank and park the car on a warm or hot day the fuel will warm up. May expand some but mostly will higher vapor pressure as it warms up. Hence the evap system to hold the vapors.
Here i get a bit vague in my understanding. The charcoal canister can trap the vapors and maybe release them to be used in the combustion of the fuel, I think.
If we overfill, I think it is possible for the canister to wind up with liquid fuel in it which can screw things up.
Many years ago, you could by the various purge valves and such individually if they messed up. Now i think most times the large system must be replaced as an expensive unit.

My pickup throws evap codes every few years. The computer system apparently from time to time will close off the valves and allow the system to build up pressure. If the pressure holds the system thinks all is OK and return the valves to regular working order and I do not get a code. If the system does not hold pressure I get a check engine light and a code. My issue turned out to be a leaky gas cap. The engine continues to run.
My solution is to undo both battery terminals for 30 minutes to undo the code. Then I put some Vaseline on the fuel cap gasket. I also replace the O ring gasket from time to time. My pressure leak seems to be from around the gas cap.

Thing is an EVAP issue ought to throw a code.

Good luck.

I agree. I never overfilled it, though. There was some issue with that system

 

[sk47]

I agree. I never overfilled it, though. There was some issue with that system

Hello; Correct those systems can and do fail on their own so to speak. Valves which open and close can fail to hold pressure.

 

[Don Mario]

Hello; Correct those systems can and do fail on their own so to speak. Valves which open and close can fail to hold pressure.

Today car started with no issues 3 times, 4th it did start, sputtered and went off. Didn't start after 5 attempts. Rested 15min and started again.

Going to mechanic Thursday to install new DW400 fuel pump.

 

[mookieit]

Any misfires?

I just had similar symptoms and swapped spark plugs, coil packs and injectors and issues were resolved.

I had misfires and CEL

 

[sk47]

Any misfires?

I just had similar symptoms and swapped spark plugs, coil packs and injectors and issues were resolved.

I had misfires and CEL

Hello; Valid suggestions. The OP says no codes so that fact is a mystery. The OP also told of using old fuel from jugs kept in the trunk of the car for a few months. This sent us down that path for a bit.
Seems the OP has decided to replace the fuel pump. So we await the results of that. I hope such works but have no confidence. I am not on the scene so internet guessing counts little. I hope this does not become throwing parts at a problem. Such can become expensive.

 

[Don Mario]

Hello.guys,

All good! It was the fuel pump. Went bad at 43,000km. Asked Ford and they said they even saw them gone at 10,000km.

Car is like new!

Installed aftermarket DW400.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[David Schmidt]

Ok, so this relates to my situation as well. I fired the parts cannon at a "crank no start" situation that turned out to be mice eating my wiring harness. In the process, I replaced the stock fuel pump assembly with some Chinesium that is noisy and has in a few isolated situations given me some weird limp mode-like symptoms that feel a lot like fuel starvation (no codes thrown). I think I'll start by putting the stock fuel pump back in, but I like the looks of this DW kit as long as I'm in there... except for the price.

 

[Don Mario]

Ok, so this relates to my situation as well. I fired the parts cannon at a "crank no start" situation that turned out to be mice eating my wiring harness. In the process, I replaced the stock fuel pump assembly with some Chinesium that is noisy and has in a few isolated situations given me some weird limp mode-like symptoms that feel a lot like fuel starvation (no codes thrown). I think I'll start by putting the stock fuel pump back in, but I like the looks of this DW kit as long as I'm in there... except for the price.

Where I live the price difference of DW400 (shipped from USA) was like 50$ from OEM. Had both in my hands and you don't need to be an expert to see the vast difference in quality materials.

 

[Don Mario]

So today, after a successful trip of 500km, when coming back home after refueling and some hard driving, the warning for "engine coolant over-temperature" and engine light came up.

Cylinder head got to 130 degrees Celsius. I switched off engine. Cooled down. Started and left idling 5min and seemed to stay at about 94 Celsius.
Engine light still ON.

This is driving me nuts :/

 

[sk47]

Engine light still ON.

Hello; I hesitate to suggest going to a parts store and getting the codes read. The big national parts stores in the USA offer free code readings. Makes sense as they may sell you parts. I do not know if the practice is common in Europe. I imagine you can buy a code reader for your personal use. I have one of the lesser expensive ones which can show the codes. Better ones can make suggestions as to what the codes mean. I get the codes and then use the internet to look up code meanings.

Lots of reasons for overheating. You will have to figure if you have a single major issue or a combination of lesser ones. First is to make sure the coolant is full. I have not looked at a 2017 radiator and expansion tank so may be mistaken as to how to check.
Had a friend who ran his vehicle too hot. He kept telling me the coolant was fine. We let it cool way down and i removed the radiator cap. Coolant could not be seen in the radiator. He was going by the expansion tank which had plenty. Turned out the hose connecting the expansion tank to the radiator (rad) had a small tear. That tear broke the vacuum between the tank and the rad so no coolant was pulled back into the rad. A bad radiator cap can do the same thing as can a leaky water pump.
Many modern systems have the radiator and expansion tank different. The cap is on the expansion tank so you can check coolant level just by looking. If you have plenty of coolant you will need to look further.

If the car has electric fans do they turn on? Can check often by turning on the AC when idling. Fans often will turn on if the engine is warmed up and the AC is turned on.

Is the AC evaporator core behind the grill stopped up with nugs , leaves or debris. The AC core is in front of the coolant radiator. Quick way to cool down a hot engine is to turn off the AC.

Do you have enough oil in the engine? Oil is a major part of cooling an engine.

Check the cowl area in front of the windshield. On modern vehicles coolant is constantly flowing thru the heater core. Heater core becomes part of the cooling process. During warm weather a set of doors open or close depending on the dash settings. Those doors control the flow of air. With the AC on the doors are supposed to arrange so heat from the heater core is channeled to the outside air. Leaves, pine needles and such can clog up that area.

Other things can cause overheating. A rebuilt engine makes more friction so I discovered decades ago after rebuilding a 351 W Ford V8. Had to get a new radiator.

Good luck.

 

[Don Mario]

It was only the fan connector. They are repairing it now.

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