Car feels weak with only 6000 miles?

[AZ18yote]

how? and what is Kam?

Suggested this earlier too. Keep alive memory. Use sct or any tuning device. Or without one disconnect negative battery terminal for 30 min or so with headlight switch turned to on to drain out any residual current.

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[TheLion]

Barring any mechanical problems or bad gas it's likely oil vapor ingestion diluting the fuel octane levels. This can occur even in normal driving and ALWAYS occurs even on stock 5.0's during sustained operation above 4,000 RPM where heat builds up rapidly. Power Packs will only exacerbate the issue, especially Power Pack 3 where your average RPM is higher up.

I have a Power Pack 2 and noticed significant fade during sustained heavy throttle and somewhat inconsistent performance even on short bursts of throttle. Obviously all NA engines are prone to power output variations due to weather, your not going to escape that. However oil ingestion can cause some significant knock and while it's not enough to be harmful the ECU will pull quite a bit of timing to keep it running safe.

Ford Performance told me this same thing that the 5.0 is very prone to fuel dilution from oil vaporization, stock or modified. Even Car%Driver noted that in their stock 2015 PP GT, the said it was the only car they tested that day that experienced "power fade" despite nothing being over temperature on their track session: https://www.caranddriver.com/features/ford-mustang-gt-at-lightning-lap-2015-feature

You need provide an environment for the ECU to be able to run it's most aggressive timing maps. So give it some good quality fuel and keep that intake free of oil.

1. Oil Separator of your choosing, passenger side only
2. Run a motor oil that is certified as LSPI resistant (aka GM Dexos 1 Gen 2). Also make sure it meets the current Ford Spec. for warranty. Many out there from Mobil 1, Valvoline etc. meet both. Gen 2 certfied oils are knock resistant formulas designed to combat LSPI in TDI engines, but they have the benefit of also reducing oil related knock in high compression NA engines
3. Good quality 91 or 93 octane, if you have very poor fuel in your area consider something like AMSOIL PI booster to help with fuel quality issues
4. TirboTEX MSH "Diesel" concentration. Snythetic Magnesium Silicate Hdyroxide is a self-repairing DLC coating that has a coefficient of friction of around 0.02 to 0.01 vs. ZDDP which is around 0.05 to 0.07 WITH additives to compensate. It substantially reduces friction losses that occur in Boundary Layer, Mixed Mode and Elastohydrodynamic Lubrication regimes. It pairs very well with power packs and high revving 5.0's with excessive amounts of valve train, the worst possible case for an engine design with high friction losses (compared to it's cam in block push rod rivals from GM and Dodge).

Give those 4 changes about a 1,000~2,000 miles and you will be impressed at the combined difference. Some of them take time to work, but it will be like a power pack on top of your power pack , especially with that big top end Power Pack 3 your running.

It's not the tune, throwing more timing or fuel at it when there are other issues id about the dumbest thing you could do and why to many Ecoboost owners have thrown rods in the 2.3L. You need to address the conditions that are causing the ECU to pull timing, the Ford Performance calibrations are pretty good and produce some very comparable power but with far better reliability than most after market calibrations.

There's simply a lot more development effort from the R&D side that goes into them to make them reliable, emissions legal and warrantied. It's not worth a cracked piston or spun bearing or fried cats, at least not in my opinion. Address the issues that are causing the ECU to pull timing and you will quite surprised at just how much power that Power Pack 3 is going to make.

 

[careature]

I'm sold on catch can already. Will add one that is designed to easy to empty and attaches to something in the engine bay.

But my symptoms were for lazy in town commute.

 

[TheLion]

Synthetic MSH will also help with that (TriboTEX Diesel concentration contains 2g of MSH). It will substantially reduce friction losses in the valve train at lower RPM's where cam lobes operate in Boundary Layer lubrication regime and pistons are operating in a mixture of boundary and elastohydrodynamic modes. 45% of friction losses in an engine occur in the piston / cylinder group. 16% of losses occur in the valve train (about 8% for push rod types due to half the valve train).

You might be surprised at how well a catch can and surface re-conditioners (TriboTEX) work together to make good clean power even on the low end. Most oil additives are actually snake oil (look up Bell Performance "which engine oil additive is best"), but there are always exceptions in the real world, rarely do rule of thumb sayings or ideologies like "this is always the case" actually hold true 100% of the time, especially as new technologies emerge that weren't previously possible.

There's been a ton of R&D money poured into reducing friction losses by NASA, DOE, DOD and several other government organizations in the US and Europe, looking at extending the service life and increasing efficiency of gearboxes in wind turbines, hydo power turbine bearings, piston engines, hypoid gear assemblies etc. to combat the growing energy crisis and reduce operating costs over the last decade or so and Synthetic MSH is a recent result of such R&D.

It's not a magic fix all, it won't address pumping losses in an engine, it won't fix mechanical damage or completely stop oil vaporization due to heat, it won't change timing advance in your Power Pack 3 or give you a 1,000 ft-lbs more down low...but it will reduce friction losses and slightly reduce oil temps, vaporization and blow by as there's less chemical energy being converted into heat due to friction, a significant source of parasitic losses in combustion engines.

It will significantly extend the service life of the piston and cylinder group and give you a nice 3-5% boost in wheel power across much of the rev range which comes from reducing wasted energy. 1/3 of the potential energy in fuel is wasted in the combined resistances in a car, from friction losses to rolling resistances of the tire. 1/3...let that sink in for a moment.

Losses occur at low rpm, mid range and high rpm. They occur for different reasons in each rpm range. At low RPM most friction losses are due to parts operating in boundary layer lubrication regimes and the fact that ZDDP, the primary anti-wear additive that forms a Tribofilm on parts operating in boundary layer lubrication regimes SUCKS at reducing friction. It's good at anti-wear, but not so much as making things slide past one another easily. It's also toxic to catalysts so it's being used in less and less quantities due to tightening EPA regulations, further the need to find alternatives that both reduce wear and reduce parasitic friction losses.

Combining the two (catch can) and friction loss reduction will greatly benefit your around town experience. No it won't make your Power Pack 3 5.0 a low end torque monster like the 5th gen LT1 6.2 or the Hemi 392, but it will give you a nice boost in low end torque and consistency. Both work well together and it's the combined effect that makes the biggest difference.

 

[texasboy21]

Still have original P zeros with 26k miles.

The stock P zeros are a 220 tread wear tire...

You should be the end of your third set at that milage..

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