BMR WAK761 camber lockout drivers side install tips

[Robottrainer]

Drivers side is tight. Very little room to work. Any tips hopefully without lowering the cradle as the braces/brackets make it a PITA to get that one. Pass side has much more room. Thanks!

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[NGOT8R]

I installed these on my Bullitt almost a year ago. For both sides, I installed the brackets and the top bolt/nut, followed by the camber arms. I used a box wrench to hold the bottom and a 1/4” drive ratchet on top to tighten. It was tedious, as you will only be able to make small turns until tight. If you try and tighten the top bolt/nut before the camber arm is installed, you’ll have alignment issues when inserting the camber arms.

You will need a box wrench and 3/8” drive ratchet and extension to tighten camber arm bolt. Note: Insert bolt through camber arm from rear and nut from the front).

 

[Robottrainer]

Yeah this attempt number 2. I started on the pass side and if you tighten the top bolt it rocks the bracket back and you can't get the cam bolt through. I took a die grinder to the top and bottom of the camber bolt holes. Haven't tried it yet since. How can you tighten the lock nut on top with the arm installed? I don't think you can get a wrench on the bottom of the top bolt with the arm in place.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yeah this attempt number 2. I started on the pass side and if you tighten the top bolt it rocks the bracket back and you can't get the cam bolt through. I took a die grinder to the top and bottom of the camber bolt holes. Haven't tried it yet since. How can you tighten the lock nut on top with the arm installed? I don't think you can get a wrench on the bottom of the top bolt with the arm in place.

My bad, you’re right. I had to think about it for a second. What I did to hold the bolt from the bottom was wedge a plastic trim panel tool alongside the head of the bolt and kept pressure against it while I tightened the nut from the top with the 1/4” drive ratchet/socket. It was a PITA, but it worked and I was able to get them tight. I didn’t have to grind anything on the mount.

 

[NGOT8R]

If you don’t have a trim panel tool, you can use whatever tools you have to wedge in there while you tighten the nut.

 

[Robottrainer]

If you don’t have a trim panel tool, you can use whatever tools you have to wedge in there while you tighten the nut.

OK thanks! I have lots of wedge stuff. I think what happens is the bracket tilts back slightly and the hole in the bracket covers the oem slot. That's my theory. The purpose is to stop the in and out movement. The oem slot covers the up and down

If you don’t have a trim panel tool, you can use whatever tools you have to wedge in there while you tighten the nut.

I'll find something. There is an amazing amount of crap in the way on the driver's side. I've bought all kinds of flex wrenches, short wrenches, long wrenches...

 

[NGOT8R]

OK thanks! I have lots of wedge stuff. I think what happens is the bracket tilts back slightly and the hole in the bracket covers the oem slot. That's my theory. The purpose is to stop the in and out movement. The oem slot covers the up and down

I'll find something. There is an amazing amount of crap in the way on the driver's side. I've bought all kinds of flex wrenches, short wrenches, long wrenches...

Yeah, I do remember it being a PITA that’s for sure. It took a little extra patience to get over the hurdle. I locked mine out in the positive camber position.

 

[Robottrainer]

Yeah, I do remember it being a PITA that’s for sure. It took a little extra patience to get over the hurdle. I locked mine out in the positive camber position.

I need negative. I'm 1 inch lower but I have the longer one piece BMR control arms

 

[Robottrainer]

If you don’t have a trim panel tool, you can use whatever tools you have to wedge in there while you tighten the nut.

Absolute bitch of a job on the driver's side. Took me all day to do. Everything is in the way. You are right. As soon as you torque the top bolt the holes go out of alignment and the bolt won't go through. Has to be almost snug. Once the bolt Goes through the slack is taken up.

I couldnt wedge anything in there to tighten it up all the way. Its snug. The lock nut should holdnit from lossening. Its cocked from the main bolt so its snug. Then try torque the main through bolt.

No way to get a ratchet in there and a hex key on the opposite side. Everything is in the way. I had to use a bunch of extensions through the cradle over the exhaust pipe with a swivel and a hex socket. Then I had to use a flex wrench one the nut and double up the wrenched to get any torque on it. 105 lb.ft is a guess at this point.

This job along with diff bushings, should be done with the cradle out of the car. In hind sight it would have been quicker and better.

 

[NGOT8R]

Absolute bitch of a job on the driver's side. Took me all day to do. Everything is in the way. You are right. As soon as you torque the top bolt the holes go out of alignment and the bolt won't go through. Has to be almost snug. Once the bolt Goes through the slack is taken up.

I couldnt wedge anything in there to tighten it up all the way. Its snug. The lock nut should holdnit from lossening. Its cocked from the main bolt so its snug. Then try torque the main through bolt.

No way to get a ratchet in there and a hex key on the opposite side. Everything is in the way. I had to use a bunch of extensions through the cradle over the exhaust pipe with a swivel and a hex socket. Then I had to use a flex wrench one the nut and double up the wrenched to get any torque on it. 105 lb.ft is a guess at this point.

This job along with diff bushings, should be done with the cradle out of the car. In hind sight it would have been quicker and better.

I used a long Allen socket with an extension and a box wrench to torque the camber arm bolts. I put the bolts through from the rear on mine to make accessing them much easier.

You are right though, it took me a long time to do this mod as well. I remember thinking how much easier it would have been to drop the cradle.

 

[Robottrainer]

I used a long Allen socket with an extension and a box wrench to torque the camber arm bolts. I put the bolts through from the rear on mine to make accessing them much easier.

You are right though, it took me a long time to do this mod as well. I remember thinking how much easier it would have been to drop the cradle.

Misery loves company

 

[Robottrainer]

Misery loves company

On to the passenger side tomorrow

 

[Robottrainer]

On to the passenger side tomorrow

One more observation. It appears the holes in the BMR bracket are too low. This is evident when you tighten the top nut. It appears it needs a 1/8 or 1/4 inch shim to get it lines up with OEM slot in the cradle.

 

[NGOT8R]

One more observation. It appears the holes in the BMR bracket are too low. This is evident when you tighten the top nut. It appears it needs a 1/8 or 1/4 inch shim to get it lines up with OEM slot in the cradle.

I can see that. Did you try and use a shim underneath the top? That was not a fun mod at all for me. We’re you able to get it finished up?

 

[Robottrainer]

I can see that. Did you try and use a shim underneath the top? That was not a fun mod at all for me. We’re you able to get it finished up?

No, I was done with the whole thing. As soon as I put the bolt through the cam arm it puts tension on the vertical bolt and locks everything in place. Once you torque the cam bolt down it's solid.

Now that it's on the ground it appears it might be slightly negative on the pass side. In hind sight I probably should have bought the adjustable arms rather than the solid ones. I probably need to shift the bracket outward slightly on the pass side. I'll wait until the alignment guys rell me where it is. I have it in the inboard holes. Reason being the arms are longer, car is 1" lower

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