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Better to Trade in WITH Supercharger or Return to Stock?

BlueCollarDaily

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I can't take it anymore I just want to move on. I've never really had new cars before I usually take something older build it like I want then get my use out of it and/or meet someone I really thing would enjoy it or enjoy finishing it ect. Kinda paying it forward.
I've run into a situation where I've bought my first new car in December of 19, it still only has 5k miles with the seat and glove box tags still on.
I've never gotten to enjoy the car if it's not sitting because Supercharger warranty starts at mileage installed and their on back order, then waiting on installer window, then trouble shooting initial issues now resolved with most the kits ....then less than pleased with results losing power belt slip ect. Upgrade to Stage 2 which theoretically takes care of all my Stage 1 issues like slip and how I didnt like the trans schedule the same as stock when I've added 200hp....ect ect..
Same waiting game with stage 2, waiting on it to come in multiple shipments as they were messed up and still didnt receive all on the 2nd shipment ( first upgrade customer ), waiting on installer cause though I gave myself a 5 day window for shipping screw ups it wasnt enough with the multiple shipment errors..so missed my window again and he is pissed again...wait weeks to get it in and back....
Take it home that evening fill up with fuel at same station for last 6 years 93 nitro +.....head out to country to test Stage 2 first time it shifts to second blows engine...
You can imagine the engine replacement ordeal especially with me a liason with Ford fighting 2 ends simultaneously. Had already dropped a retainer when both sides come together ( I will say some lawyers are great she kept the retainer BUT said I could retrieve it IF she did nothing the first time she even sent a message with her letter head it was gone, and to me it was a significant amount she did return it just like she said when all sides come together...very awesome).
Get it home carefully put 920 miles on engine every 100 miles past 400.started letting it shift itself out 500rpm higher till a max of 4000 was reached. Used hills to add load to seat rings without as much rpm ( a tuning trick I used on GM stuff decel tuning as well).
Logging the entire time on the 91 tune with 93 fuel...sending in and getting thumbs up progressively more till at 920 miles we done a single gear pull manually let out on shift. Thumbs up on the log took back out to same spot it shifts to 3rd again rattles like an UZI at the bottom of 3rd ( 1st was feathering this is limited traction ) full knock retard 0 timing noses over....dejavu....
Tried everything was asked by the company to try it with 5 gals on ms109 today same results just delayed a gear and a little less dramatic.....
But a year later I've spent 13k, blown an engine this one feels blown now......I havent been to track, raced any of the cars gearing down on my cruising ( I know they think why you got it then grey beard).I havent had a single pass in smash in stage 2 across 2 engines and nothing seems to help...I can see the cat temp is getting nuts and the knock coincides with the fuel source swapping to exhaust temp table. Cats read as high as 2000....
I cant remember a single good time in the car, I was talked into buying my first nice car and turn key supercharger system because of my families concerns about my health. I've been keeping a 1000-1200hp 67 Camaro going as my near daily for almost 30 years...and this is no joke I've worked on and hurt myself more since I've had this new car than last 5 years on the 67 combined. With my commitments to show I'd hazard I've got well more than 5k miles on the last iteration of the build 1000 street hits and 50 track...
I have nothing to show from spending 52k except something pretty to look at in the drive way.
I've never done one like this before I have no intentions of lying honestly the fact it has a May29th 2019 build engine should be a plus cause it was quite as a mouse compared to the first one a really good sounding engine....so sad....
1. I'm thinking return to stage 1, I have to full kit and sell including tuner to individual or trade in.
2. Trade in as is....
3. Return to complete stock, I just added a catback as I was told it might help ( and did actually I think ). Its not super loud and has no drone I'm an old man and wanted it that way not sure if they toss my stock stuff yet just had it done in desperation.
Lund wont tune it on the stock boost wants me to return boost levels to stage 1 and I cant see spending 6k for an upgrade of 3psi, just to spend another 1000 ( Lund tune, griptec pulley, and belt ) to return it to the same psi it was before....that shit sandwich would have corn in it......
Weary if no one knows what's going on, no one wants to touch it or can help me after months and months I still cant enjoy the brand new car and it's already had one engine replaced. I just spent $100 on racing fuel for my 50 states legal complete kit in a new car and I STILL cant even make a fun run much less a visit to the track while I still can ( got issues you dont want to know about)....at this point I'm literally trying to burden my family less...
One side of my says pay to have it returned to stock trade in and sell the kits in their full stages...one side of me doesnt want to he hung up another 3 or 4 weeks and 4k while someone does that losing even more money, I'm sure a whippersnapper like I was 15-20 years ago could figure this out and have a nice ride.....
Just havent dealt with take a supercharged car to a dealer before didnt know what to expect....what's the smart play...and dont say built short block there is so much bad will built up I'll never get over it, the ms109 fail was the last straw. I think its the cats wont flow 800 plus hp on 93 on 14psi without backing that temp up into the combustion chamber...making it all worse and detonating once they reach a certain temp and load....BUT you cant remove them without voiding your warranty....so.....
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I didn't read your long post, but going by your thread title,....it's better to trade in your car WITHOUT the supercharger.
I don't think you're going to get more money for it if you leave it on. Plus, I would think that dealerships would be more inclined to take your car if it were closer to stock.
Good luck!!!
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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I didn't read your long post, but going by your thread title,....it's better to trade in your car WITHOUT the supercharger.
I don't think you're going to get more money for it if you leave it on. Plus, I would think that dealerships would be more inclined to take your car if it were closer to stock.
Good luck!!!
What about the catback it's not super loud or drone I put that on as last ditch effort to help my issues. Not sure they still have my stock catback....was supposed to pick it up daughter ended up in ER and I had a bad fall....
Also the supercharger IS on the carfax so does it look better or worse I removed it?
I'm not really the target demo I'm over the hill which is why I'm asking here...thanks
 

SoCalTim

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You said the current engine 'feels blown now', so how do you plan to sell or trade with a hurt motor?
 

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What about the catback it's not super loud or drone I put that on as last ditch effort to help my issues. Not sure they still have my stock catback....was supposed to pick it up daughter ended up in ER and I had a bad fall....
Also the supercharger IS on the carfax so does it look better or worse I removed it?
I'm not really the target demo I'm over the hill which is why I'm asking here...thanks
Just my personal "opinion", I think you're going to lose money leaving anything that isn't stock on the car.
Unless you were selling privately. Someone may want that set-up or something similar.
Good luck!
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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You said the current engine 'feels blown now', so how do you plan to sell or trade with a hurt motor?
I would not sell to an individual without a compression test of if they have a mechanic. The ford dealer that did all the work hey if they are as thorough as I've asked them to be in the diagnostics after they got cut a $10k dollar check that's on them, lol god I'm close to hating them...

No I wouldn't sell to someone if its pushing oil and I will do another compression check anyway....even if I use a friend's discount and do a stock short block if it is blown I still dont want it.....I'm done with the car...
I've had a doctor tell me you have a 30 percent chance of living thru the next day, I did and I kinda believe in Karma.......
No if I'm down cylinders and have oil of coarse I wont be passing that along....that would make me no better than the company who has ruined what's left of my life last 9 months...
No matter how much I lose I'm done with this car/kit and I did say in the post I'd be honest......
If it is blown, hyperbole aside I'd have to see what the company will do then decide how much money is worth fighting for....you know how it goes....
 

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Or fix it and sell it to a private buyer. You will always get more money that way, but it can take a while to find the right person who knows and appreciates what you've done to it. 2000 degree cat temps are way too high. You may be running lean and the cats may be melted, blocking the flow of exhaust. Why did the first engine blow up? Are you using a reputable tuner? Do you data log? sounds like install/tune errors to me. DO a compression test, leak down test, fuel pressure test, Check the coolant for a blown head gasket, drain the oil and look for metal shavings/pieces.

Its not worth anything to the dealer or a private buyer if its broken, and hey, you might just keep it if were running correctly. If your installer/tuner knows what they are doing, you should be loving the shit out of your car like the rest of us.
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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Or fix it and sell it to a private buyer. You will always get more money that way, but it can take a while to find the right person who knows and appreciates what you've done to it. 2000 degree cat temps are way too high. You may be running lean and the cats may be melted, blocking the flow of exhaust. Why did the first engine blow up? Are you using a reputable tuner? Do you data log? sounds like install/tune errors to me. DO a compression test, leak down test, fuel pressure test, Check the coolant for a blown head gasket, drain the oil and look for metal shavings/pieces.

Its not worth anything to the dealer or a private buyer if its broken, and hey, you might just keep it if were running correctly. If your installer/tuner knows what they are doing, you should be loving the shit out of your car like the rest of us.
Its vendor tune totally stock except the catback...I think the cats either cant flow out 83.5lbs/min worth of air in heh...but I cant remove them without voiding vendor warranty.
I think if they are hurt they got damaged when as an early adopter the vendor released the kit with a plastic IAT sensor and a tune that would not work below 45 degrees....it was 17 when I picked my car up and it fueled down so hard its tough to explain. Vendor has since starting shipping the kit the with brass IAT and replacement tune I was sent. At the time ( first engine stage 1 ) it was fueling and causing misfires from being to rich ect...
Oh yes I have logs for everything the 2nd engine rattled and went full KR exactly where the first did on stage 2...the bottom of 3rd...I'm working to make some graphics for it...kinda lay them over each other.....
I kinda understand the vendor predicament they can't revise me even if I'm asking for less power and I am....without risking their certification with carb ect...that makes sense by it's very nature they cannot single my issues out or allow me to run catless....I do understand their position....I just cant do this anymore time is running out......it such a shame if this one is hurt because its SO much quiter than the first..no ticks not tip in or decel rattle no 2k rattle....its so much more quote I literally could hear the GDI pump heh.....
I thought about doing a built short block but then I'd still have to drop boost back to stage 1 levels and eat that shit sandwich as livernois doesnt even recommend 13-14psi on forged short blocks with 93...
If someone could just diagnose or cared too, vendor cant..ford got their check they dont care...where I knew a 3rd engine would work with 93.....
I believe it to be the cats, suppose it could be bad injectors but took it to Ford for a power balance test which test port injector separate of coils...
 

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BlueCollarDaily

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I'm sorry forgot to include did a compression check prior to today's asked for ms109 test...it looked fine no oil on plus highest to lowest 15psi ( still new just 1000 miles on it).
The first engine I had black Stone oil analysis done after first change it was fine I even had them bore scope 3 and 8 and I'll be danged if 3,7 and 8 were the ones rear dropped down to only 90psi with oil contamination....
No coolant is going anywhere ect.oil pressure is 80-90 in logs thru test hits.....
It does it at the bottom of a gear where pressure spikes....I've seen 200kpa on the shift....its clean if you just put it in a gear and do a pull and dont let it shift into that spike...its like the blower is putting out max air and that's fine at 7200...then it shifts all the way down to 5600-5800 and that same air spikes the boost and rattles the pistons...then goes to KR and lays over....the bypass is working I dont know if it's working fast enough.....
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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Know what's ironic the first 920 miles on this engine where it had enough power to feel nimble ( stock was a dog with 3.15s wouldnt even turn a tire ) but I hadn't gone WOT yet WAS the nicest time in the car....I dreaded doing it first time. I remember thinking if I could just have this and smash now and then I'd be SO happy....NOPE
 

gixxersixxerman

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F..... I can’t imagine. I guess if it was me I’d get out of the car if it’s not making you happy. I’d return it 100% stock.. I almost got out of my 18 just because of the shit transmission. But the Mantic clutch fixed all the problems and I’m back being in love again. If your car is a headache and you have the means to move on, in my opinion you should.
 

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What kit and tune do you have? I always thought it was crazy that people will spend 10k on a supercharger system, and then skimp on the most important part- a 500 dollar tune. Have Lund or PBD get you straightened out, after you have determined that the motor isn't hurt of course. You can verify if the cats are plugged by putting a pressure gauge in place of the pre cat O2 sensor ( they make a tool specifically for this) run the motor and if there's anything more than a about 1psi, you have a partially blocked cat.

The IAT temp. sensor on these cars is part of the MAF sensor, so I'm not sure why you would need a second temp sensor. Also, a tune from a good tuner will not decrease your power from the "vendor tune", it will increase power and reliability because it will be specifically made for your car. Iv'e not heard of a tune that wouldn't work under 45 degrees, Canned tunes are just average at best. Livernois is telling you that because the fuel is the weak point on 14psi, not the built bottom end. No matter how good the rotating assembly is, bad knock will kill any motor. If you want to safely run that much pressure you need E85 or race gas. Some like to add octane boosters with every tank, but its not as good as just using the right fuel. Still, check the basics first.
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