Best location for a DSP?

[krishelnino]

My Helix is in the factory amp location. The 2 amplifiers are in the trunk.

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[MrTej]

Yup. But not quite as old as you. I will be 51 later this month. My last system was a pair of 10" OZ Audio subs with a PPI Art series 4 channel amp and external Soundstream crossover. The front stage was all top tier MB Quart (they were the go to for sound quality back then, they make garbage now). All this mounted in the floor of my 92 Acura Integra finished in black vinyl and plexi glass panels with green neon lighting. Completely stealth - roll back the carpet and it looked like I had a nuclear reactor in there. I have no pictures of the work I did unfortunately. This was the time before cell phones and digital cameras.

I hear you on the muscle pain. When wrenching on the car my muscles are usually complaining next day too.

You guys are my heroes! I’m 43 and starting research for an audio build in my ‘18 GT. My wife keeps looking at me shaking her head. Now I have this to show her!

I haven’t really stopped messing around with car audio since my teens but it’s dropped off a lot, especially since a single din stereo doesn’t fit in anything anymore! My last “build” was making my own Fiberglas enclosure for my ‘15 V6. My GT has the Shaker 12-speaker but I’m starting to get the itch again.

 

[StangTime]

You guys are my heroes! I’m 43 and starting research for an audio build in my ‘18 GT. My wife keeps looking at me shaking her head. Now I have this to show her!

I haven’t really stopped messing around with car audio since my teens but it’s dropped off a lot, especially since a single din stereo doesn’t fit in anything anymore! My last “build” was making my own Fiberglas enclosure for my ‘15 V6. My GT has the Shaker 12-speaker but I’m starting to get the itch again.

Better to call me a hero once it's all done. I am still gathering parts. I am notorious for planning things to the nth degree. I can't believe all the stuff I need to do this job! Amazon just dropped off 50 sq feet of Kilmat sound deadener. There's a lot of sheet metal to tame. There is enough room for my gear around the inflator and with a little modification to that massive black styrofoam block I should be able to anchor it all down with that factory hold down.

You're never too old to do anything you enjoy.

 

[5.0_SD]

I'll take the hero tag then, lol. What's there to plan? I've already done it all for you! lol. I can tell you anything about my build...like how I ran thick speaker wire through the door and not use the tiny factory wires and molex plug...how the sub is mounted, etc.

 

[MrTej]

Do either of you guys have the Shaker system to start out with? Right now I’m trying to decide if I want to just replace the sub or do a complete build. When I had the ‘15, there wasn’t enough information yet about what was in the car or how to work with it (in terms of low level output); now it seems like there is way too much info.

If I want to use the factory low level inputs, where do I grab them from and do I need anything special to connect them to an amp, or can I just solder on RCAs to the end of them? I thought I read somewhere that there are plug-n-play connectors available now. And then if I use the low level lines from the factory amp, I assume I definitely need to use a DSP, correct?

Are you using the Kilmat on the doors and trunk?

 

[5.0_SD]

You can make it real simple and get the Harness By Hextall RCA harness (it's what I did), works perfect and plugs directly into your factory wiring, no cutting. Then FORscan to tell HU to output low-level, if you're keeping stock HU.

I did use mat in the trunk bottom and sides, a few in the rear interior, and the doors.

 

[StangTime]

I'll take the hero tag then, lol. What's there to plan? I've already done it all for you! lol. I can tell you anything about my build...like how I ran thick speaker wire through the door and not use the tiny factory wires and molex plug...how the sub is mounted, etc.

Yes, but I like to measure things 5x and cut once because I am too cheap to allow myself to make mistakes. I am making the system as installer friendly and serviceable with a logical layout for signals and wiring. Being the least intrusive to the original parts of the car as possible. For example, I am planning a way to keep the Styrofoam inflator center support for the trunk floor in case I need to load up the trunk with heavy items. I don't want the thin floor cover collapsing inward. I am making my own harnesses to interface with the audio system so that in itself was a bit of work to make sure I got the correct connectors and crimp terminals.

Do either of you guys have the Shaker system to start out with? Right now I’m trying to decide if I want to just replace the sub or do a complete build. When I had the ‘15, there wasn’t enough information yet about what was in the car or how to work with it (in terms of low level output); now it seems like there is way too much info.

If I want to use the factory low level inputs, where do I grab them from and do I need anything special to connect them to an amp, or can I just solder on RCAs to the end of them? I thought I read somewhere that there are plug-n-play connectors available now. And then if I use the low level lines from the factory amp, I assume I definitely need to use a DSP, correct?

Are you using the Kilmat on the doors and trunk?

Yes. Sound deadening the outer and inner door sheet metal and possibly some on the back of the door trim panel. Whatever is left I will line the trunk with.

Assuming you have a 9 or 12 speaker system you can grab the low-level signals at the black connector plugged into the amp in the driver's kick panel. You don't have to use a DSP but they are really going to allow you to tweak your system for optimal performance. Nothing wrong with using active crossovers if you set them up properly. Without a DSP you won't be able to do time alignment and EQ. The factory sub is under-powered and peaky. You don't need to replace the sub right away, get the front stage nailed down and then turn your attention to doing something better than the OEM sub. JL Stealthbox is highly recommended or if you are a bass head or on a budget, you can install a Zenclosures box behind the seat with a couple 10's or 12's for deeper more impactful bass. Or do as some others have and just buy a bass wedge for behind the seat and make sure it's strapped or secured.

 

[5.0_SD]

That's why I went with the RCA harness from Hextall...I didn't have to buy pin tools or connectors, it plugged right into to a factory connector and I didn't have to "tap" any other wires for signal. Also, the "hole" on my amp board is for the tire inflation kit, I just didn't have it in for that pic. I would NOT recommend the JL Stealth box solely because of price. My Audio Design's sub enclosure with sub is a lot less than a stealthbox...and I do like JL...my amps and fuse blocks are JL.

 

[MrTej]

Thanks guys. I’ve tried getting ahold of Hextall via email and phone and haven’t received a response. The phone number actually goes right to a message (from the phone service) saying that the “user is not accepting phone calls right now”. Hopefully they are still in business .

 

[5.0_SD]

You tried this email? [email protected]

 

[MrTej]

I tried submitting a question Via the form on their contact page. I’ll give that email a try, thanks!

 

[StangTime]

I tried submitting a question Via the form on their contact page. I’ll give that email a try, thanks!

If I had ordered extra connectors I could have sold you a set.

 

[MrTej]

You tried this email? [email protected]

I got ahold of Thomas. Thanks for the contact info.

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