thehunterooo
Well-Known Member
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- #16
I am going to try using Forscan it appears you can reset it with that and I have read you can even turn it off. Hopefully I can get it to stop so I can start running E85
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I've had this happen several times after the car sat for some time, but it's never "stuck" on that screen. You mean yours is stuck in that mode even after starting the car and driving?On the screen it will say power off to save battery the gauge cluster will also say it as well. If you turn the power on but not the car it will shut back off after a few seconds including the radio, lights, etc.
Interesting. So just disconnecting the sensors disabled it without a CEL or anything?It is not stuck like the radio and stuff never comes on but every time you turn on the ignition the radio, lights and such will want to shut off in a few seconds. That means you normally don't have a backup camera and the radio doesn't come on for a little bit. The car itself is fine but the BMS system won't reset on its own so the car "doesn't" know I have a new battery and thinks the battery is bad. But I defeated the system and don't have to worry about it anymore I haven't had an issue since I disconnected the current sensors. If for example the car sits the BMS system will stop you from draining it further so it will crank but the issue is it controls the charge from the alternator as well and if it thinks the battery is bad it won't charge it as much. It hasn't been a widespread issue on here for example as the car should reset the BMS parameters if the car sits for 8 hours but mine will not reset on its own and Ford dealers either want to charge a fee to reset it or do not even know the BMS system exists.
I had that happen for 7 or so months but just recently I needed to tune my car for E85 and its impossible and dangerous to the PCM if I were to flash with the BMS system messed up. It is a major issue along Ford vehicles and Ford doesn't seem to care of course.
Nearly a year has passed, and I am wondering if thehunteroo solved his "low power" problem.If the BMS is messed up like mine is it will always think that the battery is bad no matter the charge because it will never reset on its own regardless of whatever charge the battery has. But otherwise it should reset after sitting for 8 hours if the system is working properly or if you go to the dealer and get a battery from them they can reset the BMS on the spot and skip the 8 hour phase if they know what they are doing.
For example when I just got another new battery put in the it was not in low power mode when I turned the car on. But as soon as I got home and turned the car off and ignition back on it was back in low power mode. Not really a big deal now though since the BMS charging silliness is bypassed and it will only go back into low power mode when my battery is kicking the bucket in the next few years
Best way is to disconnect both battery current sensor relays. It disables the smart charging BS and the battery charges like it normally would. The BMS system is still there but it doesn’t have control over the charging without the sensors. It doesn’t throw a check engine light but it will have a code though it is nothing to worry about. If I bought another Mustang I would just disable it from the get go.Nearly a year has passed, and I am wondering if thehunteroo solved his "low power" problem.
I had the car-shuts-off accessories-to-protect-the-battery effect that would stop everything after about five minutes. About a month ago I.replaced the battery with a stronger one, and the shut-off came after half an hour. It still seems as if the interval is longer after a lengthy road session. I believe the problem is in the Battery Monitor System, which apparently requires a "reset" when a new battery is installed. If no reset, the System thinks the old battery is still in place, and regards it as "aged", so it is treated differently as far as charging rate, etc.
I offer this as evidence that the BMS sees the new battery as "aged": I have a modern Schumacher battery charger which fully charged the new battery, but when left on overnight claimed the battery needed desulfating. After ten hours in desulfate mode, it declared the battery BAD and showed a few codes to support its contention. The BMS had told it there was an old, aged, failing battery in place.
I think the new battery is faultless—it behaves normally except for the half-hour shut-off—and the BMS is just doing its job as if there were an old, decrepit battery installed.
After perusing several forums' threads about BMS reset, I've begun the process necessary to using FORScan to do the deed. Got a laptop, downloaded the software, acquired the connecting bits. But just in case, tonight I put the car to bed with everything turned off and all locked up, which some have said should let the BMS reset itself.
We'll see. It would be a shame to have to go the the dealer and ask them to apply their tool, which I presume they have and know how to use.
Thank you for your response. Seems like a pretty straightforward solution, but I hesitate to disarm any of Ford's armory they must have valued in some way. As long as there are other approches to be considered, I reckon I will save that one for last.Best way is to disconnect both battery current sensor relays. It disables the smart charging BS and the battery charges like it normally would. The BMS system is still there but it doesn’t have control over the charging without the sensors. It doesn’t throw a check engine light but it will have a code though it is nothing to worry about. If I bought another Mustang I would just disable it from the get go.
The BMS can apparently tell the alternator and battery how to cooperate with one another, so I'm convinced it can evaluate the status of those components and report the results, even though erroneous. The battery charger manual makes it clear that users can expect certain status reports under certain conditions. It gets its information somewhere; I nominate BMS.How could the BMS tell the battery charger anything, doesn't make sense to me. After replacing the battery did you leave the car totally shut down for at least 8 hours? Did you check the date code of the battery compared to the purchase date to determine how long it sat before being usrd?