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Axle bearing install

jacknifetoaswan

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Has anyone installed axle bearings in the S550 rear? I'm going to be swapping axles, and might as well do the seals and bearings while I have the axles removed. Seals seem like they'd be simple enough to remove and replace.

JR
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jacknifetoaswan

jacknifetoaswan

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Bump on this? Ford Performance sent me instructions, but I'm wary to actually do the deed. I've never used a puller like this, and I'm afraid to hammer something into my differential.

JR
 

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BluePonyGT

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First, great question. I was wondering this myself when thinking about stepping up to stronger half-shafts.

Second, the PDF you've included has really straight-forward directions in the general sense. This is fairly standard to be honest assuming you've done this type of work before and have the right tools, but it is written in a way to assume the person doing it has all of the right tools, and understands the overall procedures.
 
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jacknifetoaswan

jacknifetoaswan

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First, great question. I was wondering this myself when thinking about stepping up to stronger half-shafts.

Second, the PDF you've included has really straight-forward directions in the general sense. This is fairly standard to be honest assuming you've done this type of work before and have the right tools, but it is written in a way to assume the person doing it has all of the right tools, and understands the overall procedures.
Yup. Exactly this. I understand the work, in general, and have done most everything involved in this, except actually removing and installing the bearings. Honestly, I'm just piss scared I'll screw something up and need to have the diff replaced.

JR
 

Cobra Jet

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Bump on this? Ford Performance sent me instructions, but I'm wary to actually do the deed. I've never used a puller like this, and I'm afraid to hammer something into my differential.

JR
Page (2) of the doc, it is showing a slide hammer with the puller attachment.

Easy to use and to pull or extract any bearing/seal.

Once you have the axles out of the pumpkin, you would just insert the puller into the center of the bearing, make sure to adjust the “claws” so it catches on backside of bearing (or seal). Keep the slide shaft straight, grasp the slide “pull” and pull in very quick successions towards your body. Everyone is different as far as body strength, so a bearing (or seal) will usually pop loose within 3-7 firm tugs of the slide tool.

To reinstall any bearing or seal - you can use the proper kit (as seen in the image on next pages) - OR if you have a large socket set, use the largest socket diameter that will fit over the new bearing (or seal). Keep the bearing tool (or socket) straight as possible and just tap the bearing (or seal) in, once it “bites”, then ramp up the taps until it has seated flush.

—-

Both tools outlined in the Ford pdf can usually be rented from an Auto Parts store that has tool rentals such as Advanced, Auto Zone or NAPA. IIRC, the rental fee is usually about the cost it would be to buy the kit (around $40-$120+) depending on the type of tool needed. Most stores allow you to keep the tool kit for X-days. When you return the kit you get your deposit back, if you don’t return the kit you “bought it”.

The below are just examples of the (2) so you can see the actual tools instead of the illustrated “pdf” versions.

Slide hammer w/puller jaw attachment:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...er-otc1176/17630126-P?searchTerm=Slide+hammer

Bearing/seal installer:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...set-w83020/11931888-P?searchTerm=Bearing+tool
 

JohnVallo

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I thought I might add a little info on this subject as I have done 6 or 7, S550 IRS axle overhauls recently, (Ring & Pinions, Differentials, and Housings)
I have replaced the halfshaft pilot bearings and seals several times, in both the cast iron housings as well as the aluminum housings.

A couple of things about the FORD instructions both in the shop manual as well as the "IRS Seal Bearing Kit" instructions to remember:
1.
They assume you are removing/installing the bearings/seals with the Housing/differential assembled. Although this may be the most popular scenario, but this is not always the case, there is another way, as I have usually replaced them with the housing removed from the car and the ring gear/differential removed from the housing...Reason ? -A lot Easier to do the bearing removal, as I will explain later-), but I know this isn't always possible for everyone.
2.
OCT and Rotunda tools are very expensive. And to do this job per the "IRS Bearing Kit" instructions, you are assumed to be using these factory tools, which for the limited enthusiast or small shop this isn't always really feasible financially. (Being a 17 year Ford Registered Tech in my earlier years, I still have a few Rotunda differential tools... but not many still work on todays equipment)

As @Cobra Jet explains above, there are alternatives, (Tools, Rentals, and Methods), but there are a couple of things to be aware of:
1.
If you do the replacement with the Housing removed from the car, and the ring gear/differential removed, you do not need the puller.
you can use the bearing driver (Home made or however you configure it) to drive the old bearing all the way through the housing bore to the center to remove.
2. Whether you use a puller to remove the bearing or not, if you are using a home made bearing driver, (Which I use), you have to get an EXACT measurement on how deep the halfshaft pilot bearing sets into the housing bore.
With the FORD factory driver, this tool is designed to bottom out when the halfshaft bearing is properly installed, But when you use a home made driver, or generic rental driver kit, you need to drive the new bearing in, just to the point of the EXACT measurement you took earlier. -In other words, you could drive the bearing in too far, if not using the FORD factory tool-

-hope this helps-
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