Air intake tube

[markayash]

I just installed this and am impressed with the fit and quality.
If your debating changing your intake tube check them out. Biggest advantage over something like the airaid I think is keeping the air cooler. Plus its a 1 piece that fits and looks good.
I don't expect a huge HP gain but considering the stock air box is decent its the best option IMHO

https://shopeurocompulsion.net/coll...uction-system-2015-2023-mustang-ecoboost-2-3l

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[Buldawg76]

Thanks for the pic. Looks better than my AFE tube.

BD

 

[markayash]

This guy recommends them but doesn't know the company so not a paid promotion.

 

[Buldawg76]

First off, he does know the company Eurocompulsion since Greg the owner has stated they have spoken to each other numerous times at length.

The key thing to remember is you cannot lower the air entering the turbo to below what ambient temps are by more than a degree or two at most without some form of cooling medium such as ice water or freon/CO2 being in contact with the incoming air for a fair amount of time to remove latent heat from the air. Think A/C systems. So, his tests of lowering the temps up to 60+ degrees are really just removing the absorbed under hood/ road radiated heat from the air inside the intake system which is a good thing for sure but still not lowering the temp below ambient temps.

My only gripe is testing with a piece of aluminum with heat barrier tapes or wood and stock air box with covering is not IMO really showing how real world results will be performed.

Why not show the actual air box with different covering applied with hair dryer blowing on box from outside and measuring temp of box material from inside surface and the same for the EC intake tube. He does not show the actual means/ setup he uses to obtain the numbers he states.

He leaves a lot of details on actual test methods and setup to our imaginations. I would like to see much more transparency myself.

BD

 

[markayash]

First off, he does know the company Eurocompulsion since Greg the owner has stated they have spoken to each other numerous times at length.

The key thing to remember is you cannot lower the air entering the turbo to below what ambient temps are by more than a degree or two at most without some form of cooling medium such as ice water or freon/CO2 being in contact with the incoming air for a fair amount of time to remove latent heat from the air. Think A/C systems. So, his tests of lowering the temps up to 60+ degrees are really just removing the absorbed under hood/ road radiated heat from the air inside the intake system which is a good thing for sure but still not lowering the temp below ambient temps.

My only gripe is testing with a piece of aluminum with heat barrier tapes or wood and stock air box with covering is not IMO really showing how real world results will be performed.

Why not show the actual air box with different covering applied with hair dryer blowing on box from outside and measuring temp of box material from inside surface and the same for the EC intake tube. He does not show the actual means/ setup he uses to obtain the numbers he states.

He leaves a lot of details on actual test methods and setup to our imaginations. I would like to see much more transparency myself.

BD

Here is what’s interesting, now my inlet air temp is lower ( thought this was the sensor in the air box ) and when it climbs up from idling it recovers fast down to that the outside temp reads. Almost within 20 seconds of moving.
If it is the sensor in the air box only thing that makes sense is the black plastic tube transfers heat??

Not trying to make a claim but thought that was strange. Didn’t expect that to change.

 

[Buldawg76]

Here is what’s interesting, now my inlet air temp is lower ( thought this was the sensor in the air box ) and when it climbs up from idling it recovers fast down to that the outside temp reads. Almost within 20 seconds of moving.
If it is the sensor in the air box only thing that makes sense is the black plastic tube transfers heat??

Not trying to make a claim but thought that was strange. Didn’t expect that to change.

The IAT you see on the dash is from the sensor in the air box and is shown as IAT1 in a cobb or scan tool so it should be close to or at ambient temps when moving and will creep up at a stop but recover once moving quickly. In winter temps it can actually be a few degrees below ambient temps when moving. It's possible the EC tube does not transfer as much heat to the box as the stock tube does so would see lower IAT1 temps.

IAT2 is what you need to watch to see the actual air temp of the charge air going into the engine after the turbo and IC, it is the sensor located in the top middle of the intake manifold and is a MAPT sensor (manifold absolute pressure and temperature). It will have 4 wires going to it. You can watch it with your cobb handheld to see just how well the entire system is working and compare IAT1 and IAT2 temps to see the total difference between the air temp at air box and temp inside the intake manifold at idle, moving and during WOT pull and after. I have seen mine as high as 60-70 degrees different in summer temps of 100 ambient when stopped in traffic and as low as 3-4 degrees difference in winter temps of below freezing stopped. When moving the temp spread will be less depending on speeds and ambient temps and whether in city traffic or out on interstate at steady speeds for long distances.

BD

 

[S550HPP]

First off, he does know the company Eurocompulsion since Greg the owner has stated they have spoken to each other numerous times at length.

The key thing to remember is you cannot lower the air entering the turbo to below what ambient temps are by more than a degree or two at most without some form of cooling medium such as ice water or freon/CO2 being in contact with the incoming air for a fair amount of time to remove latent heat from the air. Think A/C systems. So, his tests of lowering the temps up to 60+ degrees are really just removing the absorbed under hood/ road radiated heat from the air inside the intake system which is a good thing for sure but still not lowering the temp below ambient temps.

My only gripe is testing with a piece of aluminum with heat barrier tapes or wood and stock air box with covering is not IMO really showing how real world results will be performed.

Why not show the actual air box with different covering applied with hair dryer blowing on box from outside and measuring temp of box material from inside surface and the same for the EC intake tube. He does not show the actual means/ setup he uses to obtain the numbers he states.

He leaves a lot of details on actual test methods and setup to our imaginations. I would like to see much more transparency myself.

BD

It seems the only valid test would be under hood sensors in the intake tube same day, same ambient temps, driving for 30 min each intake tube, same route for IAT temp and air flow logging. It's easy to set up.

The various youtube dynos with hoods open, in a room with $100 fans fan are very poor. Should be in a room with hood closed and variable fan 15+ ft away velocity pushing same air volume as road speed, with down stream exhaust to replicate actual operating conditions. Especially with intakes, IAT, intercoolers....open hood in inappropriate room conditions is simply so far from actual operating conditions.

Doesn't cost that much to get ducted high volume variable speed fans synced with dynos road speed data and same exhaust fans in a reasonably sized space.

I will probably buy eurocompulstion tube to try the flow.

When I put my AWD Volvo on the dyno didn't take long for ECU to warn of high temps and cut engine performance. I think it was 2 runs with same set up ad you tube dynos.

 

[robvas]

If the air is coming through the throttle body at say, 300 feet/second, how long can it be possibly be inside a plastic tube to get heated up?

 

[Buldawg76]

Air going into the intake in an EcoBoost is heated up by turbo impeller and hot turbo housing while being compressed before it ever gets to the throttle body.

BD

 

[markayash]

The IAT you see on the dash is from the sensor in the air box and is shown as IAT1 in a cobb or scan tool so it should be close to or at ambient temps when moving and will creep up at a stop but recover once moving quickly. In winter temps it can actually be a few degrees below ambient temps when moving. It's possible the EC tube does not transfer as much heat to the box as the stock tube does so would see lower IAT1 temps.

IAT2 is what you need to watch to see the actual air temp of the charge air going into the engine after the turbo and IC, it is the sensor located in the top middle of the intake manifold and is a MAPT sensor (manifold absolute pressure and temperature). It will have 4 wires going to it. You can watch it with your cobb handheld to see just how well the entire system is working and compare IAT1 and IAT2 temps to see the total difference between the air temp at air box and temp inside the intake manifold at idle, moving and during WOT pull and after. I have seen mine as high as 60-70 degrees different in summer temps of 100 ambient when stopped in traffic and as low as 3-4 degrees difference in winter temps of below freezing stopped. When moving the temp spread will be less depending on speeds and ambient temps and whether in city traffic or out on interstate at steady speeds for long distances.

BD

Wish I had done that before I swapped it.

 

[S550HPP]

For contemplation:

If the Google calculator is correct 300'/sec is 204 MPH. My HPP is limited to 155 and the 16 sq in grill hole airflow is blocked by the filter foremost.

How much air volume can the 2.3L consume every sec? About 40L / 1.4 ft3 sec @ 2500 RPM or 91L (3.2 ft3) / sec at 5500RPM?

How much air volume flows through the 16 sq in grill hole with a $100 fan 5' away?

I know on a 75 degree day I see IAT gauge drop by 30% from stop to 30 MPH after 10 seconds, after which time it stabilizes to ambient.

I would get the tube for air flow speculating improved flow will outweigh heat sink in the heavy multi layer silicon tube walls.

Regardless I doubt there is a material performance benefit. Even the Web Steeda data is pulled with an open hood and $100 fan... Have to try myself.

 

[Buldawg76]

For contemplation:

If the Google calculator is correct 300'/sec is 204 MPH. My HPP is limited to 155 and the 16 sq in grill hole airflow is blocked by the filter foremost.

How much air volume can the 2.3L consume every sec? About 40L / 1.4 ft3 sec @ 2500 RPM or 91L (3.2 ft3) / sec at 5500RPM?

How much air volume flows through the 16 sq in grill hole with a $100 fan 5' away?

I know on a 75 degree day I see IAT gauge drop by 30% from stop to 30 MPH after 10 seconds, after which time it stabilizes to ambient.

I would get the tube for air flow speculating improved flow will outweigh heat sink in the heavy multi layer silicon tube walls.

Regardless I doubt there is a material performance benefit. Even the Web Steeda data is pulled with an open hood and $100 fan... Have to try myself.

Is your grill area open to the full inlet tube size or is it partially blocked to less than the opening size of the air box inlet with closed off sections of the grill diamonds. I used a Dremel router bit to open my grill diamonds so they match the inlet size and have a velosssa tech big mouth fit tight against the backside of the grill.

Here is the Velossa tech big mouth that fir on the end of the intake inlet behind the grill.

2018-2020+ Ford Mustang S550 BIG MOUTH Ram Air Intake Snorkel | Velossa Tech Design

My grill originally only had about 9 of the diamonds open in the lower corner of the grill below the chrome spear so all the other diamonds were opened up by me with the Dremel. If you look close you can see the leading edge of the big mouth behind the grill.

Just curious if you have about the same open area as mine so that I would be flowing the same 16sq/in as you state. in your calculations.

BD

 

[S550HPP]

I have EB HPP and the hole is small if I recall correctly. I did look into the larger opening and saw some data summaries that indicate no difference, which seems counter intuitive.

I will get the eurocompulsion tube at some point because I'm curious and it's heavy wall so may even be quieter than OE.

My traction control seems to be on all the time WOT from stop...would be great to have more pull fron 60 though seems to be starved for air.

 

[Buldawg76]

I have EB HPP and the hole is small if I recall correctly. I did look into the larger opening and saw some data summaries that indicate no difference, which seems counter intuitive.

I will get the eurocompulsion tube at some point because I'm curious and it's heavy wall so may even be quieter than OE.

My traction control seems to be on all the time WOT from stop...would be great to have more pull fron 60 though seems to be starved for air.

Open those holes in the grill up to allow for more air volume into the inlets of the air box. I am not saying it will increase any ram air effect at legal speeds or even below 160+ but it will allow for more pressure volume to enter the air box albeit very minimum at best. I don't think it can hurt performance at all but have no scientific data to support it one way or another.

It does increase intake sound level from outside the front of car for sure for what that's worth as does the GT intake inlet with the larger resonator bulb . I know my IAT1 and IAT2 temps drop quicker after grill hole opening was performed than before it was done.

BD

 

[markayash]

I have EB HPP and the hole is small if I recall correctly. I did look into the larger opening and saw some data summaries that indicate no difference, which seems counter intuitive.

I will get the eurocompulsion tube at some point because I'm curious and it's heavy wall so may even be quieter than OE.

My traction control seems to be on all the time WOT from stop...would be great to have more pull fron 60 though seems to be starved for air.

Mine does seem to run a little bit better as far as smoothness and throttle response. BUT just a feeling no data.
But Looking at the factory vs this one it has to flow more and also stay cooler. Seems like a well designed product.

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