Aero Mods for Track Cars

[ddozier]

I decided to start this thread because of the questions a few guys asked about the setup on my track only build in another thread and I did not want to clutter that one up.

Here is the original post I made and the questions that followed. I will answer them here.

On my test track, Gateway Motorsport Park, the only data I have is 220 laps without the wing and 65 with the wing. Without the wing I was running a 1:12.xx in traffic and with the wing I ran consistent groups of 1:11.xx in traffic and a golden lap of 1:10.76 on NT-01s.

I think my current setup has a 1:09.5 in it as my virtual best lap is a 1:09.84 and I have never pushed the car or driver to the limit as the track is not a forgiving track and nearly all incidents would end very badly for the car there. I also think that if the car was on R7s it could drop another 1 to 1.5 seconds there.

This is on a very short track 1.76 miles with a long roval and straight were the wing could have hurt me a bit, but still the car is 1.5 to 1.75 sec a lap quicker with the wing on that track. On tracks like NCM, Putnam Park or Road Atlanta I have a feeling it will be even greater gains, it just depends on how much it hurts me on the longer straights, and higher speed tracks.

I can tell you that I was running just the front splitter and the car had a very slight tendency to over-steer on corner exit if you got on the power to fast, once I added the wing the behavior of the car has changed to a very slight push on mid-speed corners but it is cured with the throttle very easily and I can use more throttle on corner exit. That is where all the time came from according to the data, I am on the throttle sooner with the wing.

There is little question the G-Stream wing or one like it will out perform the GT350R wing, but for the size front splitter and setup I am running it seems to be a good balance. we will see once I add the vented hood and rear undertray if I can maintain the balance.

Dave

And the questions by others:

This information is incredible! Thanks for taking the time to type that whole reply.

I'm considering many things in my "build" and downforce is one. But I also hate to spend money especially if there is no benefit to track times.

Interested more in your car also, what cage is that? Never mind won't clutter this thread, I will PM you tomorrow.

Thanks again.

What splitter are you running? Does it still maintain the functionality of the factory PP brake ducts build into the front tray?

The splitter I run is a design of my own that is built to SCCA T1 rules and is made from an aluminum composite material called PolyMetal. It is cheap and relatively light considering its strength. The material choice was based on price vs weight with an emphasis on price. Other materials like Alumicor or Carbon Fiber sheeting could have been used if the focus was more on the weight of the material and less on cost.

I am making the change from a mid engine track car to a front engine track car and am expecting a learning curve that would likely need more than one splitter to be sacrificed while I learn how the driving dynamics of the two cars will effect my driving style. I wanted something cheap and easy to build and rebuild when the time comes. I needed a design that was strong and effective and could be changed at the track if needed.

I removed the front bumper and used the front OEM plastic valance to transfer the outside shape of the bumper to a foam material to make and easy to shape and light weight template. I then transferred the foam template to a piece of 5/16 masonite press board so I could use that as a router guide to cut the final material.

I built a structural frame that tied the front bumper mounts to a mounting system at the splitters final ride height. I used nutserts with floating nuts in the lower mounting rail for the fasteners that attach the splitter to the mount.

While I had the bumper off I removed the fog lights and used a silicone coupler and 3" aluminum tubing to build the brake duct inlets. I used high temp silicone hose to connect from the brake ducts to the rotors.

I also added the GT350R wing to the car to balance the front and rear downforce.

Dave

Here is a pictures of the setup:

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[Plimmer]

Please tell us where you purchased the foam and polymetal you used for the splitter. I could search myself, but sometimes faster to just ask where you bought it.

Thanks

 

[ddozier]

Please tell us where you purchased the foam and polymetal you used for the splitter. I could search myself, but sometimes faster to just ask where you bought it.

Thanks

Foam material for pattern: Easy to cut, sand, and shape
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-TUFF-R-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-3-Foam-Insulation-268413/100322369

Template material for pattern: Easy to sand, durable, perfect for a router guide just do not get it wet.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/MDF-Pane...ual-0-500-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988531/206821388

Final build material: Easy to shape, rigid, inexpensive, 48lbs for 4x8 sheet, my finished splitter weight was 18lbs.
http://www.rjsign.com/SUBSTRATE-MAT...LYMETAL-PANELS/4-x-8-6mm-black-polymetal.html

Final build material: Easy to shape, leaves an edge that needs to be filled for a finished look, higher price, lighter finished product, 22lbs for 4x8 sheet but 3x price of Polymetal. Estimated finsh weight of splitter using Alumacorr is 8lbs.
http://www.nudo.com/p_alumacorr.php

Here is a good site to compare the finish material thickness and weights. All of these materials are mainly used in the sign making business so check with local sign supply houses for pricing. Also my local guys only stock 4x8 sheets but most of these materials come in larger sizes that may allow you to get 2 splitters from a single sheet. You want to find it local shipping is nearly impossible unless you are buying 20+ sheets.
http://www.multicraftplastics.com/plastics/sheet/sign_panels/sign_panels_sheet.html

Dave

 

[c_reber]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Gibbo205]

Looks very similar in design to the Steeda front splitter.

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