A beginner's guide to HPDE and other thoughts

[Gray Ghost GT]

I prepared the following "HPDE Basics" information for my local clubs while living in Northern VA and MD, and thought I would share with the membership here. I hope you all find it helpful. I know we have many experienced members on the forum that may want to chime in. Perhaps this topic would make a good "sticky". Mike

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You will need to purchase a current SA20xx certified racing helmet (NO motorcycle helmets) along with wearing jeans, sneakers and a long sleeve shirt. Each club has their own set of rules – these are pretty common. There are many helmet manufacturers/models. Some models fit different head shapes better than others, e.g., Shoei, Bell, G-Force, etc.

Initial recommendations to prepare your Mustang for HPDE include: (1) Safety, (2) Braking and Cooling, (3) Suspension – you usually don’t need more horsepower or need to spend large amounts of money as you get into this HPDE hobby. Seat time.. Seat time.. Seat time..

1. SAFETY: Ideally, you will eventually want to invest in a set of race seats, roll bar and set of 6-point harnesses. However, if you are just starting out in HPDE 1 (and applies to HPDE 2) OEM seat and belts are good enough. If you want to upgrade for a reasonable price - a harness bar with a set of 4-point Schroth Profi II ASM FE harness are a great option because they can be converted to a 5 or 6 point harness when you’re ready to purchase race seats.

2. BRAKING and COOLING: Bleed the brake system with fresh DOT 4 Super Gold ATE Fluid, Motul RBF600 (or similar quality fluid) and use fresh synthetic motor oil. Front brake cooling ducts are highly recommended given the weight of the Mustang, and a set of stainless steel brake lines - these really work!. If you're in HPDE 1 you can often stick with your OEM brake pads, but I recommend upgrading to either Hawk, Carbotech or similar because most beginners tend to use their brakes too much or properly.

3. SUSPENSION: HPDE 1 and 2, really no need to touch your suspension till you get into HPDE 3+. It's preferred to learn valuable car control skills preferably on a good set of street tires. A wheel alignment and corner balancing makes a significant difference.

Here's a good TOP 25 "Basics" for HPDE/road racing - Enjoy!

1. Slow in / fast out. If you start turning and the car keeps going straight (push/understeer) you are likely entering the turn too fast. In my experience this slows down lap times more than anything.

2. Look ahead. The proper line is key for fast times. Looking ahead allows you to keep the car on the proper line. This may mean looking at the next turn before you are out of the current turn. Often requires looking out the side windows rather than just through the windshield.

3. Use the whole track. This goes with the proper line. In general, you want to make the turn as gradual as possible to allow for greater speed. However, stick to the clean line. Gravel and marbles will often accumulate the most off line and you will lose traction if you stray into it.

4. Whenever possible, ride with an experienced driver before your runs. Even better, co-drive your car with a good driver. This allows for great feedback on what your car can do for a particular course, and where you can pick up more time.

5. Try to get your hard braking done in a straight line and take a line that allows you to get the car straighter and on the gas earlier in the turn, particularly before a straight.

6. Unwind the wheel as you accelerate out of the turn. Getting on the throttle as you come out of the turn will generally cause the back end to step out (over-steer). Unwinding the wheel allows you to control the over-steer and generate more speed. Again, use the whole track.

7. Basic mechanicals. Full fuel, fresh brake fluid, at least 50% left on your brake pads, secure battery tie down, etc. Make sure the engine oil is topped off (continuous running track courses, add 1/2 Qt. over full).

8. Tire pressures. Most newbie’s start out with high pressures, mainly to save the sidewalls of the tires. Start by adding 6 psi to each tire, COLD. Cold, like before you leave home in the morning cold. After each run (each run because you'll be picking up speed on each run) check to see that you're not running onto the sidewalls. Wear on the corner of the tread is OK, but not past that.

9. Interior. Get everything out of the interior that can move. Floor mats, radar detectors, CDs, etc. You'll be braking and turning harder than you ever have before, and you won't believe the stuff that'll come out from under the seats.

10. Personal. WATER, WATER, WATER! And eat light. Especially if you get some runs with an instructor, it's easy to get a queasy stomach.

11. Leave your EGO at the door, I can’t stress that enough. I see way too many guys wrecking their cars just because they THOUGHT they are great drivers.

12. DO NOT FOLLOW THE GUY IN FRONT OF YOU BLINDLY!!! You will be surprised how many guys DO NOT take the correct line. A bad line will get you one of two, a bad lap time or an off track experience.

13. BE SMOOTH!!!! Do not force the car or yourself, be smooth, speed will come with that.

14. If you come into a corner too hot you can ride it out and go off track a bit. Here's the kicker, if you accidentally get two wheels off track RIDE IT OUT! Don’t panic and try to yank the car back onto the pavement. The car will spin and when you regain traction you'll probably be pointed at a wall!

15. Someone who is in your mirrors did NOT start there, so they are faster than you are, let them by. Do not get frustrated by people that won't let you by. Pull into the pit, tell the course marshal you want some space, and they will let you back out into clean air.

16. Pay attention at the driver's meetings. Make sure you know and FULLY understand the passing zones, and passing method used by the people running the event. You may know what the flags mean, but make sure they are using them the way you think they should be using them.

17. Do NOT use the brakes on the cool down lap. Use it to cool down the car, but also drive the "perfect" race line in super slow motion. If you can't put the car where you want it at 40mph, how are you going to do it at 90mph? When you return to the pits, do NOT apply the handbrake. Chock the wheels and after about 45-60 seconds roll the car forward 6"-8". This will allow the part of the rotor that is inside the caliper to breath too. Pop the hood. While the hood is up, look for fluid leaks and double check your brake fluid level.

18. Know where the flag stands are, check them every time you go by them.

19. When there are unsafe conditions on the track, GET OFF THE TRACK. Pull into the pit, don't be afraid to end your day early. It's far better than having it ended early for you.

20. It makes sense to change to open lug nuts. The closed ended ones can get junk in the end preventing proper torque specs. This is referred to as "acorning." It would be a bad day losing a wheel at any kind of speed.

21. Screeching tires on a corner are fine, but "howling" tires are bad. After a few corners, you'll know what I mean. When the tire noise deepens and starts to "howl," you are right on the edge with street tires, so be very careful.

22. DO NOT LIFT if you're in a corner. The load of the car transfers forward with the deceleration, the rear tires get light, and the back end can snap around on you. If the rear then grabs, you'll be heading directly into the inside of the corner, possibly at a wall or other fixed obstacle.

23. Optional... you may want to carry an extra bottle of brake fluid, a bleeder bottle, set of spare pads and rotors, and an extra quart or two of oil. DO NOT pay attention to the gas gauge, it may not read properly since the S197 has a saddle-bag shaped gas tank. The cornering can slosh fuel back and forth enough to create false readings on the gauge.

24. Your OEM rotors should be good for 3-5 events, again depending on the heat. Replacement rotors (they will wear and crack eventually) are cheap at Advanced Auto or Rock Auto or someplace like that. I carry a spare set with me so I can change out bad ones and keep on driving the rest of the weekend. Avoid drilled rotors - not good for HPDE because they will crack fast and ruin a good weekend.

25. Don't use your transmission/engine to slow your car as you enter a turn. USE your brakes! Brake pads are much less expensive to replace than repairing your transmission. It may sound "cool" to hear your car whine down as you enter a turn, but you're placing a lot of stress on your transmission and its "uncontrolled deceleration" that can spin your tail end around. Brake steady/hard and shift.

HPDE 3 drivers should learn and become proficient in Heel-Toe Shifting to rev match your RPMs while down shifting. This is not usually a HPDE 1 or 2 skill. Check out these videos: video #1 and video #2 to learn the "Heel - Toe Technique". You can purchase a custom gas pedal extension plate to make this easier.

Here's some good reading for HPDE:

Secrets of Solo Racing - Henry Watts
Speed Secrets - Ross Bentley
Driving in Competition - Alan Johnson
Drive to Win - Carol Smith; and A Twist of the Wrist – Lawson & Rainey

You can also learn the layout of various road courses by watching HPDE videos on YouTube, but don't rely on their "line" since they may be wrong or specific to their cars setup.

Milestones for novice/beginner, intermediate, and advanced students as typically as follows:

Level 1 Novice Group Students

• Rules/procedures/format of school.
• Aware of vehicle condition.
• Proper seat & driving position - Mirror position - seat belts or harnesses snug - correct head and hand position.
• Traffic Safety Management: Observes pit line starter and watches traffic when leaving pit – checks mirrors often-signals and assists passing cars - observes corner workers & flag status - observes pit entrance procedures.
• Up-shifts and Downshifts properly and selects appropriate gear.
• Smooth clutch release and observes engine redline.
• Knows track layout and the proper driving line.
• Does not early apex.
• Vision - looks into turn, past apex and toward exit.
• Smooth turn in and smooth turn out – knows largest possible radius.
• Throttle on before turn exit.
• Correct hand technique, will introduce shuffle steering.
• No abrupt sawing steering wheel inputs.
• No driver body lean-keeps head up and vision far down stream.
• Clips apex’s consistently.
• Understands understeer & oversteer.
• Knows the location of run-off areas.
• Knows how to drive off track.
• Understands threshold and/or ABS braking.
• Performs hard barking without lockup.
• Corner entry speed correct.
• Follows directions and responds to instruction.
• Maintains appropriate car spacing (2 seconds).

Level 2 Immediate Group Students

• Scans and attends entire visual field-Has high situational awareness.
• Brakes hard and late on straights.
• Knows and achieves brake traction limits.
• Has consistent brake point selection.
• Left foot braking as appropriate.
• Consistence cornering force.
• Can correct a skid – knows spin limiting techniques.
• Knows acceleration limits exiting turns and uses correct RPM range.
• Performs turn analysis.
• Can drive in both wet and dry.
• Uses very small steering corrections.
• Understands the significance and can evaluate corner exit speed.
• Can execute a early apex (capable of driving off line and stay on track).
• Can execute a late apex (capable of driving off line and stay on track).
• Knows "S" turn line and performs driving line analysis.
• Is aware of errors and can self evaluate/self teach.
• Steers accurately and consistently.
• Can recognize and is sensitive to vehicle feedback.
• Can evaluate vehicle feedback.
• Reads traffic-Looks through cars ahead.
• Exhibits calmness and self control.
• Knows driving terms.
• Has an action plan for each corner.
• Changes vehicle position by altering trajectory.

Level 3 Advanced Group Students

• Demonstrates spatial memory of course.
• Performs error analysis.
• Reacts well to the unexpected.
• Anticipates changing conditions.
• Reads road surface.
• Performs heal & toe down-shifts.
• Hard braking into turn/trail brakes.
• Can Throttle steer vehicle.
• Knows principles of vehicle dynamics.
• Knows weight transfer and is aware of brake bias.
• Is sensitive to vehicle dynamics.
• Understands tire dynamics.
• Understands slip angles - effect on grip - and cornering speed.
• Knows rain techniques.

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[Gray Ghost GT]

Here are some thoughts on the minimum set items to take with you to the track:

1. Tool Box
2. Tire Pressure Gauge
   
3. A small jack like the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton Racing Jack. Cheap and effective.
   
4. Deep impact socket for the lug nuts
5. Set of adjustable jack stands
6. 6 inch impact extension
7. 1/2 in drive click type torque wrench that can read to 150/160 ft/lb
8. 1/2 in drive battery powered impact wrench. Craftsman 19.2 volt 300 ft/lb wrench can get you through the weekend without recharging.
9. 1/2 in drive 18 inch long breaker bar
10. 1/2 in drive ratchet
11. Impact socket for brake caliper removal
12. Socket to remove the caliper cross bolt so you can get the brake pads out.
13. Brake pad expander so you can push the pistons back in. You need one that will expand to push the pistons out on both sides of the caliper.
14. Wrenches/sockets: Brake Bleeder (3/16 in I think), 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 16 mm 18 mm, 19 mm and 22 mm.
15. Long nose and Linesman pliers
16. Channel Locks 1 ft and the large ones
17. Vice Grips
18. Selection of Number 1, 2 and Larger Regular and Phillips Screwdrivers
19. Selection of Allen Wrenches both Metric and Standard
20. Selection of Torx bits small and large.
21. Rubber Mallet or Hammer.
22. Tire pressure gauge.
23. Portable air compressor (pancake)
24. Hose clamps
25. Flashlight. You will always find a dark spot that you need to light up
26. Easy Up - keep you in the shade out of the summer sun or the rain
27. OBD-II Reader and Code Delete

 

[DAVECS1]

This is very good reference! Needs to be a sticky.

Last summer I ran into a new situation after doing this for 15 years, as an amateur. I had a newish tire go down while on the track. I check pressure all day and torque lug nuts every session. The tire went down while on track and I had the first wreck of my entire driving career, on or off track. They were MPSS2s with 2 track days on them, on 6GR wheels. Have not yet determined how the tire rolled off the rim.

Here are my lessons from the incident to date

1. If car is equipped with tire pressure monitoring, bring it up on display if possible before going on track.
2. On the first couple laps test the tires left and right
3. Always check your distance to other participants, especially when entering braking zones
4. When studying corners also study the best run off zone, make a plan a, b and c for leaving the track

I know there is more to learn from this incident, and while,putting my ride back together I am definetly paying close attention to tire and wheel selection.

I have never been a participant who likes to hang out in others mirrors and force a wave by so I usually have plenty of space to work. In this incident I was coming off a very long straight away, and I had let the car run to its full potential. Unfortunately this put me into a position where I had caught up to a slower moving car that was still in the corner. When I let off the gas and hit the brakes the car caught me by surprise, and took the wheel out of my hand for a bit. I was able to counter steer, but my trajectory was pretty much chosen, as I had lost a front tire. I got the car pretty much slowed down before the corner. I unfortunately still bumped into the slower guy. We slid gently off track.

Things I did as reaction, not sure if they were right or wrong.
1. Kept the Brakes hammered down as I felt this was my best chance to reduce speed quickly
2. Counter steered the wheel when it yanked in one direction
3. Tried to steer the car off course as I wanted to avoid other participants (this did not really work, but I did try)

To be clear I was not aware this was a tire failure until the corner worker told me what he saw. I thought my car broke or I did somehing horribly wrong, that I had never done before.

I actually used the advice from the last bit of the drivers meeting that I had heard for so many years. Stayed in my car with safety gear on and belts buckled as it is still a live track. The other participant did not and it worried me, but we all ended up safe. Of course he was a bit upset, I would be too.

(After reading my post, it may be a distraction to the really good information above. If the the OP or mods would like me to delete it, I will be happy to do so. My intention is to add to the good content, not detract)

 

[Hack]

I prepared the following "HPDE Basics" information for my local clubs while living in Northern VA and MD, and thought I would share with the membership here. I hope you all find it helpful. I know we have many experienced members on the forum that may want to chime in. Perhaps this topic would make a good "sticky". Mike

Here's a good TOP 25 "Basics" for HPDE/road racing - Enjoy!

8. Tire pressures. Most newbie’s start out with high pressures, mainly to save the sidewalls of the tires. Start by adding 6 psi to each tire, COLD. Cold, like before you leave home in the morning cold. After each run (each run because you'll be picking up speed on each run) check to see that you're not running onto the sidewalls. Wear on the corner of the tread is OK, but not past that.

Lots of great stuff there. I don't understand number 8 above, though.

Can you explain why someone would want to increase tire pressures? And why would someone want to save their tire sidewalls? Generally I have to lower the initial tire pressure because hard use increases tire temperatures / pressures.

 

[BmacIL]

Lots of great stuff there. I don't understand number 8 above, though.

Can you explain why someone would want to increase tire pressures? And why would someone want to save their tire sidewalls? Generally I have to lower the initial tire pressure because hard use increases tire temperatures / pressures.

The sidewall is meant to support the tread, not to get direct loading by the road when/if there is enough grip/not enough camber. Increasing pressure increases the stiffness/resistance to roll over on the sidewall.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Lots of great stuff there. I don't understand number 8 above, though.

Can you explain why someone would want to increase tire pressures? And why would someone want to save their tire sidewalls? Generally I have to lower the initial tire pressure because hard use increases tire temperatures / pressures.

Depending on the type of tire (street vs. slick, and different manufacturers), amount of negative camber, and weight of the car, you may have to adjust tire pressure (increase or decrease) based on tire temperatures (inside vs. outside) while hot, and wear marks, e.g., if you're rolling over onto the side walls through the turns and esses. You're correct, you often need to release pressure throughout the day as the tires get warmer and pressure increases. Want the beginners to know that under inflated tires can be more problematic than over inflated tires; and to check regularly. Appreciate the question.

 

[BmacIL]

Depending on the type of tire (street vs. slick, and different manufacturers), amount of negative camber, and weight of the car, you may have to adjust tire pressure (increase or decrease) based on tire temperatures (inside vs. outside) while hot, and wear marks, e.g., if you're rolling over onto the side walls through the turns and esses. You're correct, you often need to release pressure throughout the day as the tires get warmer and pressure increases. Want the beginners to know that under inflated tires can be more problematic than over inflated tires; and to check regularly. Appreciate the question.

Exactly. Overinflated (within reason) will get greasy and lose grip quicker because of the heat, but underinflated tires can be unpredictable if the sidewall rolls over.

 

[Hack]

Exactly. Overinflated (within reason) will get greasy and lose grip quicker because of the heat, but underinflated tires can be unpredictable if the sidewall rolls over.

Part of why I questioned the statement is I don't think I've ever had a car on track that would put wear on the sidewall. I suppose this is more common with older and non-sporty cars that have taller sidewalls or lots of body roll.

 

[BmacIL]

Part of why I questioned the statement is I don't think I've ever had a car on track that would put wear on the sidewall. I suppose this is more common with older and non-sporty cars that have taller sidewalls or lots of body roll.

Any car with a McPherson front can suffer from this. Increasing roll stiffness and tire sidewall stiffness can mitigate it some.

 

[DAVECS1]

Sidewalls do wear and give out. This happens on tighter technical courses and autocross usually, but it is most definitely a thing. Someone with less experience would be advised to run more pressure, in order to keep from accidently damaging their vehicle, while learning. We are not looking for fast times here, just fun high performance driving

 

[SVO MkII]

Very nice write up! One more thought after doing track days for 20+ years.

When you are ready to start modifying your car, horsepower is the LAST thing you need to focus on. Driver, driver, driver, tires, brakes, suspension,..................then HP. I have had many friends get too hung up on being passed down the straights. So either they try to add power, or even worse, get more powerful cars, before they really know how to drive. One guy was so convinced his 210 hp 944S2 was "underpowered" after his first event, he went out and bought a 415 hp 911 Turbo. He felt much better that he wasn't getting passed as much on the straights. Then I informed him that his lap times were still slower than a 120 hp Spec Miata. A fast driver in a slow car is almost always faster than a slow driver in a fast car!

 

[DAVECS1]

Very nice write up! One more thought after doing track days for 20+ years.

When you are ready to start modifying your car, horsepower is the LAST thing you need to focus on. Driver, driver, driver, tires, brakes, suspension,..................then HP. I have had many friends get too hung up on being passed down the straights. So either they try to add power, or even worse, get more powerful cars, before they really know how to drive. One guy was so convinced his 210 hp 944S2 was "underpowered" after his first event, he went out and bought a 415 hp 911 Turbo. He felt much better that he wasn't getting passed as much on the straights. Then I informed him that his lap times were still slower than a 120 hp Spec Miata. A fast driver in a slow car is almost always faster than a slow driver in a fast car!

Agree with all the above, but I will add one of the most dramatic improvements I added to my track car was a 5 point harness.

 

[BmacIL]

Agree with all the above, but I will add one of the most dramatic improvements I added to my track car was a 5 point harness.

I would agree. Even the Schroth Quickfit Pro is a huge improvement in the ability to control the car. I'd put it right up there with the rest of the important things to get.

 

[SVO MkII]

"Agree with all the above, but I will add one of the most dramatic improvements I added to my track car was a 5 point harness."

Absolutely. But if it will be your DD, 5/6 point harnesses are a real PITA. Especially if you, or anyone else who may drive/ride in your car ever wears a skirt! We put racing seats and harnesses in my son's 944 Turbo. His girlfriend was not impressed!

 

[BmacIL]

"Agree with all the above, but I will add one of the most dramatic improvements I added to my track car was a 5 point harness."

Absolutely. But if it will be your DD, 5/6 point harnesses are a real PITA. Especially if you, or anyone else who may drive/ride in your car ever wears a skirt! We put racing seats and harnesses in my son's 944 Turbo. His girlfriend was not impressed!

Thus the beauty of the Quickfit. Comes out of the car in 30 seconds. I leave the rear connections hooked up all the time and just leave the rest of the harness on the back seat behind me. When it's time to go track/autocross, hook the front portion up and go. ASM rated as a 4 point, basically becomes a 3 point like the factory belts in a crash.

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