10SpeedDemon
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2018
- Threads
- 116
- Messages
- 488
- Reaction score
- 153
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
- Website
- www.instagram.com
- First Name
- Dre
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Mustang GT A10
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
I seem to follow these every time they pop up lol
For those interested here's what I did and what all is involved. I hope this helps anyone looking at extended studs.
I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs. I personally went these because I've run these in the past, price and because I like to zip off the lugs. To explain, I always torque them on with a torque wrench. But due to having to torque these to 149 ft/lbs on the stock (M14) lugs, my factory lugs after 3 install/removals were rounding off, bulging, getting stuck in the socket and overall getting beat up pretty bad. I also went with Gorilla's Forged Steel Lugs with the new ARP's. It's nice to be able to torque these down to 100 ft/lbs just like my previous Mustangs and the lugs not take such a beating.
Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.
![]()
![]()
![]()
On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).
![]()
![]()
![]()
You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.
![]()
Did you get rid of the Oem lugs
Sponsored