70k service question

[brfdrums]

Hello everyone, would there be anything specific to do at 70k miles as for servicing? I have read the owners manual and I have done a search on the google. Manual says change spark pugs and google goes to changing shocks and struts. Yes, there is more but that's enough for the post...I am looking at a diff flush maybe coolant, some standard servicing like that, but wanted to see if there was anything more.
I have magna ride and don't really think I want to get into changing those out and the car is a PP1.

Anything more I should check out?

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[Paddles]

Off the top of my head;

Brake fluid, coolant, differential oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, engine and cabin air filters, check coolant hoses, check rear suspension especially the bushings, check wheel hubs and bearings, check lug nuts for swelling, check ebrake tension and lube mechanism, lube all door/hood/trunk latches, check firewall and battery water drains for debris, check battery age, check AC system charge

 

[Skye]

You're reading the maintenance schedule. That's good. It's the minimum standard for care. If you want to lean forward on any of this, you can. You'll see from the responses we are all a bit different in what we do.

- Follow the maintenance schedule. If you'd like to go above and beyond that, great
- Use parts and materials that meet or exceed the specification
- Use a Top Tier fuel
- Document all your maintenance activities, via CarFax, personal notes, Pass App, or all that

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_12_2019.pdf

Under normal operating conditions, plugs are replaced at 100k mi / 160k km. If the vehicle is used for towing or sees excessive idling, they should be replaced at 60k / 96k. If you're under normal conditions and would like to lean forward, you can. If you'd like to wait, that's OK.

As to the struts and the shocks, it depends on driving conditions. If the vehicle sees primarily highway traffic, you might not get any benefit at all. If you're rubbernecking with frequent potholes, you might appreciate it. If anything, they can be inspected for any signs of excessive wear or leaks, along with tire tread wear.

I've replaced struts/shocks in my truck over its life, typically with every other set of new tires. I've appreciated the improvement in ride quality, but these are traditional units. Those with experience in replacing magneride can offer guidance. You didn't mention the tire situation. If the tires have quite a while to go and things are otherwise OK, you might wait until your next new set of tires.

Brake fluid should be replaced every three years.

As a habit, I replace my battery every five years, not matter the condition. At a minimum, this interval, remove your battery cover and check for corrosion. I check for corrosion at least twice a year.

Differential and Transmission servicing...many lean forward and replace sooner than the maintenance schedule requires. At 70k mi / 112k km, it could be worthwhile to service both. I do not recommend "flushing" (force) or "power flushing" (a lot of force). See the seals. See the now leaking seals. Just follow the prescribed Ford procedure.

Coolant is not due for some time. If there is a repair activity in the near future which involves coolant, you can follow the procedure to have it replaced then. If you'd like to check the potency of it now, you can.

You didn't mention tread wear. If tires are wearing OK, great. If they appear to be wearing poorly, a check of the alignment and suspension would be worthwhile. I formally check tread wear a few times a year with a gauge.

Air filters are scheduled for 20k mi / 31k km. Cabin filters 30k mi / 48k km. While they shouldn't be do at the interval now, it depends. I drive in an urban environment. I replace my truck filters every 10k mi / 16k km. I do it due to the amount of soot I see after even that short interval. Skye's air filter is washable, so it is cleaned annually. That's my routine. YMMV.

Inspect the brake pads for wear, how much material is left.

Remove the radiator cap from the overflow tank, inspect and lubricate the o-rings with silicone spray. Re-secure the cap. These caps have a tendency to stick, freeze and fall apart when removing. Remove only when cold. If you think it's going to break, stop and buy a replacement cap first. I lube my cap once once or twice a year. Push down, twist off.

A good, overall inspection would be worthwhile. Each maintenance activity, I do one. Simple. visual checks. Everywhere. A function check (parking brake, defroster, etc.) of items would be good.

Once a month I check fluids under hood and do an overall visual inspection of everything, inside, out, under. It helps avoid the future, "I was checking my car today and look what I found!" thread.

Edit,

Lights. Please check all your lights. And license plate tag, license and proof of insurance. Most of us keep after these things. Using my daily observations as evidence, and ever greater number of people don't. I point things out to others when it's possible. Most had no idea.

 

[3pdl]

where exactly are all the body water drains? a search failed to find a diagram.

 

[3pdl]

ai chimed in:

Steps to check and clear body water drains on a 2019 Mustang GT (coupe or convertible)

Tools needed

Flashlight
Thin long screwdriver, plastic trim tool, or flexible pick wire
Compressed air or leaf blower (optional)
Shop vacuum with narrow nozzle (optional)
Garden hose with spray nozzle (low pressure) or spray bottle
Gloves, shop rags
Quick safety notes

Work with the car on level ground and parking brake on.
For under‑body access, use jack stands if you lift the car — don’t rely on the jack.
Convertible: move the top and interior trim carefully to access drain openings; follow trim clips’ removal technique to avoid damage.
Where the drains are (summary)

Cowl drains at base of windshield (left and right, under cowl panel)
Engine bay/front fender pinch‑weld drains (two per side near front/rear jacking points)
Door lower edge / rocker area weep holes (along lower door seam)
Trunk/tail area drains (channels above/behind taillights and trunk drain points)
Convertible‑specific: rear convertible well drains under rear seat / quarter panels (two per side; drain tubes exit under rocker area)
How to check & clear each drain (step‑by‑step)

Cowl drains (base of windshield)
What to look for: leaves, pine needles or debris in the plastic cowl screen at windshield base.
Procedure:
Open hood. Remove or lift the cowl screen clips (plastic trim) if required to see the screen.
Use flashlight and remove debris by hand or with long plastic pick.
From under the cowl, insert a thin screwdriver/coat‑hanger to gently probe drain tubes; push debris down/out.
Blow compressed air or run low‑pressure water into the cowl to confirm flow; watch undercarriage exit points for water.
Reinstall cowl trim.
Engine bay / pinch‑weld drain holes (front and mid underbody)
Location: look under each front corner and about 6" in front of each rear wheel where pinch weld seam splits (small rectangular/slit weep).
Procedure:
Use flashlight from below the rocker/pinch seam to find the slit drain(s).
Probe gently with a screwdriver or thin pick to dislodge debris.
Use compressed air or a leaf blower aimed into the seam from inside wheel well to force debris out.
Confirm drainage by pouring small amounts of water into corresponding upper area and watching for exit.
Door/rocker weep holes
Location: lower edge of door and along rocker panel seams.
Procedure:
Open door; inspect bottom edge for factory weep holes.
Use thin pick or blow air through hole to clear.
Avoid poking long metal tools that can damage paint or internal seals.
Trunk/tail area drains
Location: channel along top of trunk opening and behind taillights (there are small drain outlets at lower edge of quarter panel and behind/under taillight trim).
Procedure:
Open trunk; remove trim or taillight (if comfortable) to inspect drain channel.
Remove debris, then run garden hose (low pressure) into the channel and watch for water exiting near the bumper or behind taillights.
If blocked, feed a flexible wire or use shop vac from exit point to clear.
Convertible rear well drains (convertible only)
Location: cavities under rear seat/behind rear speakers and quarter trim; drain tubes route to rocker area/pinch weld exits.
Procedure:
Put top down and remove interior trim (rear seat back trim / speaker cover) carefully to access cavity.
Remove leaves/debris by hand, use shop vac or leaf blower to clear the cavity.
Locate rubber drain grommets/tubing and probe/clear tubes. Confirm by pouring small amount of water into cavity and confirming exit under car.
How to test drains after cleaning

Pour 1–2 liters (or steady spray) of water into the upper area (cowl, trunk channel, or convertible well) and watch the expected exit points under the car (pinch weld slits, behind taillights, under rocker).
If water still pools, trace the blockage toward the lowest point (often foam/insulation or a fitting in the channel) and clear access by removing trim or taillight as needed.
Common trouble & fixes

Debris piled in cowl screen or convertible well: remove by hand/vacuum and keep area clear.
Rubber drain tubes kinked or collapsed: free or replace tube; inspect routing under trim.
Drain outlet covered by underbody panels: temporarily remove splash shield or slight reposition to check outlet.
Persistent interior leaks: check seal around windshield, door seals, and cabin filter housing (cowl). If unsure, have a dealer/body shop pressure‑test the seals.
Diagram (text schematic)

Front (windshield/cowl): two drain openings under plastic cowl at left and right base of windshield → drain tubes down into inner fender / underbody.
Sides (under doors/rocker): small slit weep holes in pinch weld about 6" forward of each rear wheel and near front jacking point.
Rear trunk/tail: channel along top rear of trunk opening → drains out behind taillights / lower quarter panel outlets.
Convertible rear wells: cavities under rear seat/behind speakers → drain tubes routed down to rocker/pinch weld exits.

 

[ORRadtech]

Off the top of my head;

Brake fluid, coolant, differential oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, engine and cabin air filters, check coolant hoses, check rear suspension especially the bushings, check wheel hubs and bearings, check lug nuts for swelling, check ebrake tension and lube mechanism, lube all door/hood/trunk latches, check firewall and battery water drains for debris, check battery age, check AC system charge

You left off checking the belts and tires/rotation/alignment.

 

[brfdrums]

I have a staggered set up, and the tires are new. by like a month maybe two.

 

[brfdrums]

This is quite a lot to take in...need to take some notes. HAHA

Ill need to go back and look at the info I got from mechanic(via carafe) on what has been done before I bought the car, then I can use that and this and get the work done. Thanks!

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