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50,000 miles

Juben

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Well, I forgot to take a picture right when I crossed over like I wanted to, but nevertheless, I have passed over the 50,000 mile mark.

My engine was built in Spain in August '14 (non-E code). It has been tuned since 1,000 miles by Adam and has been modded with bolt-ons for about the same amount of time. I've ran E30 for probably 35,000-40,000 of those miles as well.

As I've said many times over, heat management and good maintenance practices are critical to ensure a healthy engine — along with limiting yourself to doing stupid stuff, lol. The second day after I had the car, I hit up Nik and got the first Levels FMIC unit off of his production line. I also immediately ordered colder plugs, changed over to a higher quality oil, and added a catch can. All of these were done VERY early on in the life of the car.

I'm saying all of this because most people are scared of the early engines. The E code engines do seem to be very resilient engines with no known failures right now, but if best practices for the aforementioned are used, the early engines can be just as resilient and reliable too.

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Ron@cp-e

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50K?

trailer queen


lmao

nice man, really nice
 

ForYourOwnGood

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I just put my catch can on before leaving for a work trip, I checked down the back of the valves with a flashlight when I had the intake manifold off and mine were literally as spotless as could be at 2500 miles. IC is my next purchase for sure, although I won't get back to the car before its winter so I might wait until warm weather again for that.
 

ronv95

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I'm still little behind, had car since OCT14 and just rolled 42k...Unleashed since 10k...all about proper maintenance.
 
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Juben

Juben

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You're not too far behind. I bought a Ranger for a daily, so hopefully the mileage being put on it will start to drop a little bit. Now, I just have to convince myself to drive the Ranger or the Fusion.
 

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nolezack

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Curious what oil/spark plugs do you prefer?
 
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Juben

Juben

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Curious what oil/spark plugs do you prefer?
I run Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 for oil. It's a fantastic oil and is highly praised on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG). I use it with a larger than factory FL-400S, which allows me to use 6 full quarts.

For plugs, I've tried every brand and type of plug available. As of right now and the foreseeable future, I'll be running the Brisk RR14S. I tried the RR12S (two ranges colder) early on but they were too cold for use with E30. The RR14S have been awesome so far. They perform excellently and do appear to be aging very well.

Brisk makes two different types of the Silvers: the RR14S and the RR14YS. The YS is a standard style projected tip plug, like the NGKs or Densos. The S is a non-projected tip plug. Non-projected tips are usually regarded to be better for nitrous and higher boost applications, so I run them. Several people do run the YS too though with positive results. I don't think you'd go wrong with either one, but it's just a preference to me.
 

TheLion

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Well, I forgot to take a picture right when I crossed over like I wanted to, but nevertheless, I have passed over the 50,000 mile mark.

My engine was built in Spain in August '14 (non-E code). It has been tuned since 1,000 miles by Adam and has been modded with bolt-ons for about the same amount of time. I've ran E30 for probably 35,000-40,000 of those miles as well.

As I've said many times over, heat management and good maintenance practices are critical to ensure a healthy engine — along with limiting yourself to doing stupid stuff, lol. The second day after I had the car, I hit up Nik and got the first Levels FMIC unit off of his production line. I also immediately ordered colder plugs, changed over to a higher quality oil, and added a catch can. All of these were done VERY early on in the life of the car.

I'm saying all of this because most people are scared of the early engines. The E code engines do seem to be very resilient engines with no known failures right now, but if best practices for the aforementioned are used, the early engines can be just as resilient and reliable too.

picture.jpg
You hit the nail on the head Juben. Proper support modifications and maintenance. Running a better IC, Colder Plugs, Catch Can, 160F thermostat and good quality fuel along with high quality oil should prevent any non-manufacturing defect related failures (extremely rare) assuming you have a good quality tune, weather it's something like a shop tune done by Adam or a reputable OTS tune like Ford Racing / LMS / Mountune etc.

Most of the Focus ST blown engines I've seen had Stage 3 type OTS tunes but with so many mods it would make your head spin, yet none of them were geared towards heat management (colder plugs, 160F thermostat, using a low NOAC rated oil) which is how you properly support higher power levels. They seemed to have 1 thing in mind, going as fast as possible at any cost...and cost them it did!
 

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GJarrett

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Just got minme and it will be a DD with a lot of miles piled on it.. good to read this :)
 

stevnoof

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I'm similar build date at 25k. I guess that not very impressive but the car is doing just fine.
 

navair133

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For informational purposes I went over 56,000 yesterday. Bought October 2014. Daily driver. Tune, CAI, cold spark plugs, catch can, springs, kbar, strut brace, catback exhaust, full synthetic oil and filter change every 5000 miles. Had one weird emissions related problem that took a couple of visits to figure out. But other than that the car has been running like a champ.
 
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TheLion

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At the risk of being flamed out, I'm going to bring up one point I was trying to make on another thread which I took an immense amount of flack for. PCM software. Y'all here are proving my point in that many of the 2015 mustangs are already well past 36k. There's probably a decent bit of early 2016 builds already in the 20k range which makes the "warranty" on the Ford Racing software to look mighty hollow. A point I could not seem to get by on my TST Optimization thread when I mentioned alternatives that while are not necessarily warranty safe, were highly qualified (LMS, Mountune also which was recently brought to my attention by Juben), but I digress, we are all free to think what we may, valid or not.

Now I just passed 4k miles, yup, mine's a young one. Although the last car I owned I had 172k when I sold it and it was still running strong (2007 Focus ST with duratec 2.3L NA). I'm also running Brisk Plugs, but the RR14YS, I'm not sure if I will switch as the LMS pcm software does not increase boost outside of factory limits, so I'm not sure if there would be any benefit to the RR14S plugs in my application as it's a bit different. I am running a Levels Gen 3 FMIC which is a work of art (especially for $550 shiped), the LMS 160F thermostat, 93 octane, UPR dual valve catch can (since about 3k, drained after the first 800 miles since install and only found about a table spoon of oil, but multiply that by 5 to 10 per oil change dep on oil and that's quite a bit of oil in the intake over the life of the car) and a Boomba BOV (with an Outerwear shroud for to keep things clean during continuous venting). LMS software is tuned for 91 octan, which is another safeguard (for only an extra 10hp, I see no reason not to have an extra safety factor by tuning to 91 but running 93, also if I travel I can pretty much find 91 everywhere nationwide). We'll see how it holds up, but all that on an E code engine should be quite robust. I will switch over to AMSOIL Signature 5W-30 once the factory fill of motorcraft is due (at about 63% according to the oil life indicator).

BTW, what was your emissions problem navair133?
 
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DUNDEM

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I run Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 for oil. It's a fantastic oil and is highly praised on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG). I use it with a larger than factory FL-400S, which allows me to use 6 full quarts.

For plugs, I've tried every brand and type of plug available. As of right now and the foreseeable future, I'll be running the Brisk RR14S. I tried the RR12S (two ranges colder) early on but they were too cold for use with E30. The RR14S have been awesome so far. They perform excellently and do appear to be aging very well.

Brisk makes two different types of the Silvers: the RR14S and the RR14YS. The YS is a standard style projected tip plug, like the NGKs or Densos. The S is a non-projected tip plug. Non-projected tips are usually regarded to be better for nitrous and higher boost applications, so I run them. Several people do run the YS too though with positive results. I don't think you'd go wrong with either one, but it's just a preference to me.
I'm not tuned but I have the Penzoil Ultra Platinum and it runs great in the car.
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