4th Brake Light

[imaginager]

So, what's the story? Is it in stock or special order?

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[Danger]

Oh, snap I just ordered mine today :readthethread:

 

[Diode Dynamics]

I'm sorry for the error in the top of the listing there, we will have to correct it.

These are being shipped as they are manufactured. Generally we are looking at a 2-4 day wait right now, 5-10 is the max possible wait.

We do take the time to test each one thoroughly, after they're made here in St. Louis. We greatly appreciate your patience!

 

[imaginager]

Thanks for the reply. My work day commute is dark on both ends, so I'd like to get this gizmo installed!

 

[Khyber]

i bet yall got a TON of order too through your own site and your vendors for them with that 20% off.

 

[imaginager]

So far, I'm giving this 0 stars. Unfortunately, most people are probably going to install this over a weekend, when DD is closed. So, no phone support...

First...those of you with Shaker subs - you need to pull the sub. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning if you think the 4th brake light is a 10 minute install.

Second, no amount of fussing was able to get the red terminal wire with its bayonet receiver into the plastic receiver housing such that the bayonet bulb connector prong would make a positive connection - or any connection for that matter. This is the wire that is fed through the floor of the trunk to the backup light. I read the included instructions, watched the DD video. No help there.

The red terminal wire w/ bayonet receiver end piece will only go into the plastic receiver housing one way. However, there is no way in heck you can push it all the way to the bottom of the plastic receiver housing. And DO NOT use any kind of tool. Even a plastic or nylon rod will detach the red wire from it's metal bayonet receiver end piece, which is simply crimped on - the receiver end piece is really soft.

Okay, there's more than one way to skin a cat, right? So, I abandon the idea that I will ever get the red terminal wire's bayonet receiver end piece into the plastic receiver housing. Instead, I decided to simply solder a wire to the plastic bulb connector's middle bayonet prong and feed it up through the center hole of the plastic receiver housing, then splice it to the DD red terminal wire fed through from the trunk. A connection is a connection.

Turn on the lights, and the backup bulb turns red...bright red. Huh. Shift into reverse and the bulb turns white...check. Touch the brakes and the backup bulb doesn't change. Basically, the backup bulb is either in brake mode (bright red) or backup mode (when I shift into reverse). The red running light is nowhere to be found.

I assume the controller that plugs into the driver side tail light harness in the trunk must control running/brake/backup. So, why is there no running? I don't see how my soldering a wire to the male bayonet prong in the plastic bulb connector should interfere with running light functionality...

Perhaps I'm a moron, though. And, I can accept that. But I have rewired a motorcycle. Also, there is just no way anyone is going to get that DD red terminal wire bayonet receiver end piece into the plastic receiver connector for the backup bulb and have it make a connection. And, if they do, I suspect it will work itself loose inside of a week of driving.

I'm done whining and am open to ideas on what I've done wrong. Maybe soldering the wire from the bulb housing is a problem. Maybe the DD controller is bad.

 

[Khyber]

i'm not sure how you didn't think it was self explanatory to pull the sub but it's 4 screw and two bolts to get it out. takes all but 2 mins.

the red wire for me was difficult as well. I used the screw driver that came with it to push it all the way in and it snapped in. I was afraid of using the little thing because I didn't want to tear it up but I pushed on the end of the connector evenly and it finally went in.

other than that 4/5 because I wish the 4th brake like was f1 style of braking that matched my sequential tails from dd.

 

[imaginager]

i'm not sure how you didn't think it was self explanatory to pull the sub but it's 4 screw and two bolts to get it out. takes all but 2 mins.

I said that wasn't a big deal...obviously I pulled it. Just didn't occur that I would need to until I pulled the carpet from that side, which hides the sub mount that no human hand will fit behind. I mentioned it - not as a criticism - but because DD does not mention it in their video, and I wanted others to be aware in case they're thinking this is a 10 minute job, soup to nuts.

 

[imaginager]

I used the screw driver that came with it to push it all the way in and it snapped in. I was afraid of using the little thing because I didn't want to tear it up but I pushed on the end of the connector evenly and it finally went in.

TBH, I'm having a hard time understanding this. The red terminal wire has a rubber plug inline that fills in behind the metal female receiver when placed in the plastic housing. What exactly were you pushing on with the screwdriver? There's no room inside the plastic housing to get that little screwdriver blade inside once the female receiver is in there with the rubber plug sealing the hole.

Also, why doesn't the running light illuminate on mine? Backup and brake work, but no running... doesn't make sense.

 

[ohbuckeyes]

I didn't buy it due to having the euro reverse setup, but this video seems pretty self explanatory IMO.
[ame]

 

[ETCH]

So far, I'm giving this 0 stars. Unfortunately, most people are probably going to install this over a weekend, when DD is closed. So, no phone support...

First...those of you with Shaker subs - you need to pull the sub. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning if you think the 4th brake light is a 10 minute install.

Second, no amount of fussing was able to get the red terminal wire with its bayonet receiver into the plastic receiver housing such that the bayonet bulb connector prong would make a positive connection - or any connection for that matter. This is the wire that is fed through the floor of the trunk to the backup light. I read the included instructions, watched the DD video. No help there.

The red terminal wire w/ bayonet receiver end piece will only go into the plastic receiver housing one way. However, there is no way in heck you can push it all the way to the bottom of the plastic receiver housing. And DO NOT use any kind of tool. Even a plastic or nylon rod will detach the red wire from it's metal bayonet receiver end piece, which is simply crimped on - the receiver end piece is really soft.

Okay, there's more than one way to skin a cat, right? So, I abandon the idea that I will ever get the red terminal wire's bayonet receiver end piece into the plastic receiver housing. Instead, I decided to simply solder a wire to the plastic bulb connector's middle bayonet prong and feed it up through the center hole of the plastic receiver housing, then splice it to the DD red terminal wire fed through from the trunk. A connection is a connection.

Turn on the lights, and the backup bulb turns red...bright red. Huh. Shift into reverse and the bulb turns white...check. Touch the brakes and the backup bulb doesn't change. Basically, the backup bulb is either in brake mode (bright red) or backup mode (when I shift into reverse). The red running light is nowhere to be found.

I assume the controller that plugs into the driver side tail light harness in the trunk must control running/brake/backup. So, why is there no running? I don't see how my soldering a wire to the male bayonet prong in the plastic bulb connector should interfere with running light functionality...

Perhaps I'm a moron, though. And, I can accept that. But I have rewired a motorcycle. Also, there is just no way anyone is going to get that DD red terminal wire bayonet receiver end piece into the plastic receiver connector for the backup bulb and have it make a connection. And, if they do, I suspect it will work itself loose inside of a week of driving.

I'm done whining and am open to ideas on what I've done wrong. Maybe soldering the wire from the bulb housing is a problem. Maybe the DD controller is bad.

I had a lot of issues also. What it all can down for me, that I discovered was the Sequencer Tail Light Kit I had installed. The instructions indicated to run the 4th brake light with the Sequencer Tail Light was Vehicle-side plug > Fourth Brake Connector > Sequencer > Tail Light

Turned out it was wrong. When I removed the Sequencer, the 4th brake light worked correctly. Then I did the installation in this order and everything worked the way it was supposed to: Vehicle-side plug > Sequencer > Fourth Brake Connector > Tail Light

It is a really cool product. the red wire is a bitch to install. I actually decided I was either going to totally mess it up, or get it to snap into place. I jammed the little screw driver they provide into the back of the red wire and pushed hard until I heard it snap... I had another 2015 mustang at a stop light pull along side me and asked about the 4th brake light tonight. he really liked it.

I hope this helps.

 

[imaginager]

Sorry guys, if I'm snippy. Just really frustrated. Appreciate the help.

I don't have a tail light sequencer installed, so mine is just "out of the box".

I appreciate the link to the CJ Pony Parts video install, it's a little better than DD's. In it I can exactly see the orientation of the female bayonet receiver as it's inserted into the plastic housing.

Okay, so I pulled everything apart again and reattached the female bayonet receiver to the red terminal wire (just like it came out of the box, except the rubber plug came off when I tried to use a nylon rod to press it into the housing earlier this morning). I was able to successfully press it into the plastic housing all the way. And, yes: I used the included flat head screw driver (didn't need to worry about the rubber plug). Thanks for that tip Khyber!

Removed my soldered connection, cleaned all the solder from the middle prong on the bulb housing, then reinstalled the bulb. Pressed it into the female receiver and stood back.

The 4th Brake Light behaved in exactly the same way. I get Brake Light and Backup Light. NO RUNNING LIGHT.

My only conclusion is I either have a bad bulb, or a bad 4th brake light controller. I even swapped the controller from the left to the right tail light. No change: no running light.

Will be calling DD on Monday.

 

[HETPE3B]

I didn't buy it due to having the euro reverse setup, but this video seems pretty self explanatory IMO.

Do you have a link to euro reverse setup? I would like to have reverse and fog lights in the back.

 

[MELLOWYELLOW06]

I saw these in Vegas at their booth in Sema

They are really cool

 

[Khyber]

TBH, I'm having a hard time understanding this. The red terminal wire has a rubber plug inline that fills in behind the metal female receiver when placed in the plastic housing. What exactly were you pushing on with the screwdriver? There's no room inside the plastic housing to get that little screwdriver blade inside once the female receiver is in there with the rubber plug sealing the hole.

Also, why doesn't the running light illuminate on mine? Backup and brake work, but no running... doesn't make sense.

the metal piece has an end to it at the rubber seal. i just pushed on it

far as your running light not working, no clue. maybe the solder but don't know.

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