286 miles towed to the dealer already

[Todd15Fastback]

Hey guys im know im getting old ,but i can still shift with the gas pedal to the floor.But what the hell is money shifting LOL.

LOL!! Same here. I know what a money shot is

Here is a money shift.

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[GT Pony]

I'll admit that I've never driven a stick and haven't the slightest idea how to drive one, but I'd have assumed Ford would have included an interlock mechanism to prevent this, so you couldn't engage a gear too low for your speed.

That would be nice, but doubt anyone has something like that on a manual transmission (except for reverse lock-out).

It's pretty hard to blow-up an automatic transmission these days, but manual transmissions can still be grenade pretty easily if driven wrong. And, engines can be damaged also from mechanical over-revving in a situation like the OP had. I read many times were guys with Vettes did a 4th to 2nd downshift thinking they were going into 3rd, and bent push rods. At least the Coyote is safe from that.

 

[SVTFreak]

, and bent push rods. At least the Coyote is safe from that.

It's not safe from valve float and piston contact, though, which is what causes bent pushrods. Pushrods themselves are cheap. It's all the other damage done that's expensive. And on the 4 cammers, it could actually quite easily end up being more expensive than on cam-in-block 2 valvers.

 

[GT Pony]

^^^ Yes, if the piston to valve clearance is that tight/close it might happen. However, isn't the Coyote 4-valver shim in bucket (direct cam lobe) actuation? If so, that might help, but it's the valve spring stiffness that is utmost important to help prevent valve float at high RPM. At any rate, doing a major mechanical over-rev is something to be avoided.

 

[SVTFreak]

^^^ Yes, if the piston to valve clearance is that tight/close it might happen. However, isn't the Coyote 4-valver shim in bucket (direct cam lobe) actuation? If so, that might help, but it's the valve spring stiffness that is utmost important to help prevent valve float at high RPM. At any rate, doing a major mechanical over-rev is something to be avoided.

Shim in bucket won't prevent valve float if over revved high enough for any reason (that's what causes motor damage usually when downshift on up shift happens). Valve float, if bad enough, yeilds piston to valve contact.

Luckily, it doesn't sound like OP destroyed his motor.

Everyone saying stuff about how inexperience blah blah needs to remember that all car people are new to manuals or to faster cars etc at some time. Including themselves. I know I've learned a few expensive lessons over the years. Also learned to repair my own mistakes hah. You're born with a full bucket of luck and an empty bucket of experience. The object is to fill the bucket of experience before the bucket of luck runs out. Also, with wisdom comes good judgment. Unfortunately, wisdom usually comes from bad judgement.

 

[xmustangx]

Well from my pretty good knowledge and experience with me and my dad drag racing fast manual transmission cars. Sounds like you ripped the center out of the clutch.

 

[olaosunt]

Well I got a call from ford this morning. $4600 for a new transmission and clutch. I guess I'm gonna have a $40,000 paper weight cause I can't afford that. Should have never got rid of my last one.

For that money you could get a Tremec,magnum XL and RXT clutch.
OR.... if you look on forums there are lots of used MT82's some of them built with aftermarket clutches for $1500 or less,you can get from guys who have done an autoswap.

 

[yellowragtop]

Hmmmm

Okay, Ray said he was able to actually drive the car onto a flat bed.

This is starting to sound like the issue IS what he said, which was the slave cylinder.

What is happening is the clutch pedal hydraulic mechanism isn't working quite right.

Wow I wonder if all they need to do is BLEED the air out of the clutch fluid line, and then this would fix the problem completely?? (have they done that yet??)

The slave cylinder on a Tremec T56, (and I know a mustang doesn't use the T56), but the slave cylinder can be removed. Why would someone say the entire transmission needs to be replaced just to install a new slave cylinder. (that was weird). You DO need to take the tranny out to install a brand new slave cylinder, but that doesn't mean you need a whole new transmission. (see the link below showing an exact diagram for the MT82 showing the installation of the slave cylinder.)

T56 Camaro owners install something called a "remote bleeder" to the slave cylinder, so you can easily bleed the air out of the system.

I was not able to prove yet, exactly where the fitting is which allows you to bleed air from the MT-82 trans. But it has to be somewhere.

Check out this link: (simple diagram of slave cylinder installation)
http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/tr...moval_and_installation/clutch_slave_cylinder/

This link has the MT-82 disassembled but they don't show the slave cylinder, however you might want to bookmark this link for reference since it does show a breakdown of this transmission:
http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/viewfilec345.pdf

The slave cylinder is bolted into the transmission and removable. Based on this sketch, there might be fitting that can be reached on the outside of the tranny, so you can bleed the system. (there has to be)

1) Ask the dealership to bleed the air out of the clutch pedal fluid line.

2) If the slave cylinder is "bad", then they can pull the transmission completely out, then replace the "bad" slave cylinder with a new one, and then put the car back together.

3) If the clutch pedal is "sort of" working, (where you pump the pedal, and you are able to get the car in 1st, and move forward...)..this again suggests to get air out of fluid line/or slave isn't working at all.

Hope any of the info above helps Ray but if the dealer STATES as a FACT something is BROKEN,...they need to EXPLAIN that very fully and completely and if possible, tell everyone on this website what they said and WE WILL let you know if it makes sense.

Good luck. keep us posted on this.

 

[GigaHz]

By my calculations he could of been going 60 mph and still not hit redline in second. I am thinking it is just something to do with the clutch. Maybe it got glazed and won't grab any more?

 

[2Cool]

Clutch bleeding procedures shown by Steeda for their braided line replacement are to pump the pedal ~100 times. There is no bleed fitting on the tranny line connection.

It took at least a hundred pumps to get my clutch pedal to have any resistance after the line swap, then several days of driving to return to normal feel, spending every light or stop sign stop repeatedly cycling the pedal.

However, it does clear itself with use. So I can pretty much guarantee that an OEM clutch line has no air in it by the time you put almost 300 miles on it.

Okay, Ray said he was able to actually drive the car onto a flat bed.

This is starting to sound like the issue IS what he said, which was the slave cylinder.

What is happening is the clutch pedal hydraulic mechanism isn't working quite right.

Wow I wonder if all they need to do is BLEED the air out of the clutch fluid line, and then this would fix the problem completely?? (have they done that yet??)

The slave cylinder on a Tremec T56, (and I know a mustang doesn't use the T56), but the slave cylinder can be removed. Why would someone say the entire transmission needs to be replaced just to install a new slave cylinder. (that was weird). You DO need to take the tranny out to install a brand new slave cylinder, but that doesn't mean you need a whole new transmission. (see the link below showing an exact diagram for the MT82 showing the installation of the slave cylinder.)

T56 Camaro owners install something called a "remote bleeder" to the slave cylinder, so you can easily bleed the air out of the system.

I was not able to prove yet, exactly where the fitting is which allows you to bleed air from the MT-82 trans. But it has to be somewhere.

Check out this link: (simple diagram of slave cylinder installation)
http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/tr...moval_and_installation/clutch_slave_cylinder/

This link has the MT-82 disassembled but they don't show the slave cylinder, however you might want to bookmark this link for reference since it does show a breakdown of this transmission:
http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/viewfilec345.pdf

The slave cylinder is bolted into the transmission and removable. Based on this sketch, there might be fitting that can be reached on the outside of the tranny, so you can bleed the system. (there has to be)

1) Ask the dealership to bleed the air out of the clutch pedal fluid line.

2) If the slave cylinder is "bad", then they can pull the transmission completely out, then replace the "bad" slave cylinder with a new one, and then put the car back together.

3) If the clutch pedal is "sort of" working, (where you pump the pedal, and you are able to get the car in 1st, and move forward...)..this again suggests to get air out of fluid line/or slave isn't working at all.

Hope any of the info above helps Ray but if the dealer STATES as a FACT something is BROKEN,...they need to EXPLAIN that very fully and completely and if possible, tell everyone on this website what they said and WE WILL let you know if it makes sense.

Good luck. keep us posted on this.

 

[TheGrayRider]

Any updates?

 

[MultiMediaWill]

I did something very similar to OP in my 2016 Mustang. I shifted from neutral to 2nd at 70mph. The dealership said my clutch needs to be replaced for a cost of around $1000. They didn't mention anything about the transmission so I am assuming it is fine.

 

[whatsup62]

I did something very similar to OP in my 2016 Mustang. I shifted from neutral to 2nd at 70mph. The dealership said my clutch needs to be replaced for a cost of around $1000. They didn't mention anything about the transmission so I am assuming it is fine.

I blew my clutch out at 1600 hundred miles on my 2015. Dealer replaced everything 100% under warranty after I bitched at them for two days straight. If your dealer does not, tell them you want to speak to their area Ford Customer Service rep. and give them hell.

 

[MultiMediaWill]

I blew my clutch out at 1600 hundred miles on my 2015. Dealer replaced everything 100% under warranty after I bitched at them for two days straight. If your dealer does not, tell them you want to speak to their area Ford Customer Service rep. and give them hell.

I have 300 miles on my car. The damage was 100% my fault so I'm not even going to argue with them. I'll bite the bullet for this one.

 

[MrVu1101]

I did the same on the freeway at about 70mph, tried going 3rd to 4th. I heard my mistake and hit the clutch immediately and the needle was right at redline. Seemingly no issues so far. Best of luck to you.

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