2019 GT, 8" TouchScreen, 9 Speakers... Adding a factory Subwoofer and have questions!

[WarrenKeri]

I could really use some help fellas. As the title states we have a 2019 GT with an 8" touchscreen and the 9 speaker option. There is also an Amp mounted in the upper left corner of the drivers side footwell. However, we do NOT have the factory Subwoofer in the right corner of the trunk.

I recently purchased a factory B&O (seems from reading here) 10" Sub and the required Bracket to mount same in our trunk. While my previous career was in automotive tech and I can install my own Lowering Kit, Supercharger, Tuning, etc., i'll admit I am not a stereo guy and need some help.

FYI, the 18-20 Subwoofer looks different than the previous 15-17 version and it seems there's other wiring differences too. This pertains to a 2019. I believe I'll have everything worked out reference getting this baby to work. PlugnPlay makes a Harness and has various options to get a LC2i and Amp going easily.

* Here's my questions and current dilemma...
Can someone please tell me what OHM and Watts RMS this factory Subwoofer operates at & where/how you figured it out ??

I have even taken the Subwoofer apart and only explained the 4 wires, I believe its a dual voice coil, as all 4 wires go to the speaker. The green/black & purple/yellow wires go together. I have p/n's from the Subwoofer, KR3T-19A067-AF (white label on housing). The only thing printed on the Sub itself is 4265000301A & 190409, on the paper of the speaker itself. Also the following on the magnet; 7965001301A, FLEX1, 23519, 15:53:26 MXZ, but unfortunately these have not helped me in any way. The p/n on my Amp is HR3T-18T806-AB

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[NGOT8R]

Yes, the sub is a DVC sub. Do you have a digital voltmeter? If so, set the meter to the ohms scale (symbol that looks like a horseshoe) touch the negative and positive leads from the meter to two of the wires purple/yellow or green/black and look at the screen on the meter to see how many ohms they are.

 

[NGOT8R]

If you want to get the best sound out of the B&O sub for minimal cost, you can put it on a small aftermarket amp. I did this with the Shaker Pro sub in my 2013 GT. You will have to be careful with it and adjust your gains accordingly, so that it will last and not blow. AudioControl makes a nice micro series amp. That’s what I’m running on a 12” JL sub in my Bullitt.

 

[WarrenKeri]

Yes, the sub is a DVC sub. Do you have a digital voltmeter? If so, set the meter to the ohms scale (symbol that looks like a horseshoe) touch the negative and positive leads from the meter to two of the wires purple/yellow or green/black and look at the screen on the meter to see how many ohms they are.

According to this test, the Subwoofer showed 4 OHM @ each VC ... THANK YOU

 

[WarrenKeri]

If you want to get the best sound out of the B&O sub for minimal cost, you can put it on a small aftermarket amp. I did this with the Shaker Pro sub in my 2013 GT. You will have to be careful with it and adjust your gains accordingly, so that it will last and not blow. AudioControl makes a nice micro series amp. That’s what I’m running on a 12” JL sub in my Bullitt.

Exactly what I am trying to do sir. Getting a harness from Plug'n'Play also.
Do you know how I can determine the WATTS RMS I'll need for this B&O Sub??

 

[FreePenguin]

Just start low imo, play it, see how it sounds, if doesn’t sound distorted, and happy set it

if want more and doesn’t sound distorted add more watts, but if starts to sound distorted at your listening level, back it down a bit or well, if you smell burning smell that means it’s prob too high for the little speaker.
If you toss in an aftermarket woofer in the they can handle a lot more power than stock cheap sub.

 

[WarrenKeri]

Just start low imo, play it, see how it sounds, if doesn’t sound distorted, and happy set it

if want more and doesn’t sound distorted add more watts, but if starts to sound distorted at your listening level, back it down a bit or well, if you smell burning smell that means it’s prob too high for the little speaker.
If you toss in an aftermarket woofer in the they can handle a lot more power than stock cheap sub.

I mean, I guess this makes sense, but I was looking for a more technical answer....lol
Besides I want to know how big of an Amp to buy. Really wanting a AMP & AC in one & finding out the WATTS RMS is something Plug'n'Play told me to do. FWIW, we don't want/need a lot of Bass, just the presence of Bass would be great & to be honest, the exhaust is loud and we don't turn the stereo on much anyway.

 

[NGOT8R]

Exactly what I am trying to do sir. Getting a harness from Plug'n'Play also.
Do you know how I can determine the WATTS RMS I'll need for this B&O Sub??

Unfortunately I don’t know the answer to this question. The amp I ran on my Shaker Pro 10” sub was a JL Audio 300W mono amp. I started with the gain low, increased it a little at a time until the bass distorted and then backed it off until the distortion went away, plus another 1/16 of a turn. I never had a single issue out of that setup and I kept it for 3 years. Once the speaker broke in, the bass was even deeper. Lastly, don't play your volume above 3/4 and that will help the sub to live a long healthy life.

 

[NGOT8R]

Another trick you can try, if you’re not looking for a whole lot of bass and want to save even more money is to remove the B&O speaker and stuff the enclosure with polyfill. It will increase the bass and may be enough to avoid having to buy other components. You can find it in an old pillow or buy a bag from Walmart for less than $10. Here’s a little read on it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...is-polyfill/&usg=AOvVaw19RD8JTdSwbg01Cl5ZK4h-

 

[FreePenguin]

Another trick you can try, if you’re not looking for a whole lot of bass and want to save even more money is to remove the B&O speaker and stuff the enclosure with polyfill. It will increase the bass and may be enough to avoid having to buy other components. You can find it in an old pillow or buy a bag from Walmart for less than $10. Here’s a little read on it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiCqdSOyojuAhVyuVkKHYKVDwEQFjALegQIARAC&url=https://learn.sonicelectronix.com/what-is-polyfill/&usg=AOvVaw19RD8JTdSwbg01Cl5ZK4h-

id attempt this first. may be surprised idk.

 

[WarrenKeri]

I know "dumb ass non-stereo guy" but if I just buy a AudioControl ACM-1.300 which has a 300 Watt built in Amp, does it also function as a LC2i so I only need the one unit?

I know the ACM-1.300 is pricey at $280 on Amazon, but the LC2i is $100 plus I'd spend another $60-100 for an Amp, so IMO why not spent another $80-120 & have a single high quality unit.

* Update I called AudioControl & Josh advised that the ACM-1.300 is essentially a LC2i with a 300 watt amp built in. So if I use the Plug'n'Play Harness, the speaker level inputs will hook up to the ACM-1.300 which also has dual outputs for my Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer.

My only concern was that he said the ACM-1.300 is designed for 2 OHM operation & I advised him that I measured the OHM's of my Subwoofer @ dual 4 OHM. He said it'll be okay, that I just wouldn't want to operate the ACM-1.300 under 1 OHM as that would damage the Amp.... Ssooo, I assume it's okay to use the ACM-1.300 as a stand alone. I don't know why its so confusing....lol

 

[FreePenguin]

I know "dumb ass non-stereo guy" but if I just buy a AudioControl ACM-1.300 which has a 300 Watt built in Amp, does it also function as a LC2i so I only need the one unit?

I know the ACM-1.300 is pricey at $280 on Amazon, but the LC2i is $100 plus I'd spend another $60-100 for an Amp, so IMO why not spent another $80-120 & have a single high quality unit.

edit. the lc2i's ive used, I always used in conjunction with another amp in piggy back form.

if you don't ever want more than 300 watts, id go that route, but. you can get an awesome 500watt amp, and lc2i for 300 bucks.

so both even, but I think the one unit would be easier to wire/deal with., less space

 

[FreePenguin]

I know "dumb ass non-stereo guy" but if I just buy a AudioControl ACM-1.300 which has a 300 Watt built in Amp, does it also function as a LC2i so I only need the one unit?

I know the ACM-1.300 is pricey at $280 on Amazon, but the LC2i is $100 plus I'd spend another $60-100 for an Amp, so IMO why not spent another $80-120 & have a single high quality unit.

* Update I called AudioControl & Josh advised that the ACM-1.300 is essentially a LC2i with a 300 watt amp built in. So if I use the Plug'n'Play Harness, the speaker level inputs will hook up to the ACM-1.300 which also has dual outputs for my Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer.

My only concern was that he said the ACM-1.300 is designed for 2 OHM operation & I advised him that I measured the OHM's of my Subwoofer @ dual 4 OHM. He said it'll be okay, that I just wouldn't want to operate the ACM-1.300 under 1 OHM as that would damage the Amp.... Ssooo, I assume it's okay to use the ACM-1.300 as a stand alone. I don't know why its so confusing....lol

id buy the open box, 251
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACM1300/AudioControl-ACM-1-300.html?cc=02

 

[FreePenguin]

oh yeah, then that would be ideal for you. if you actually toss another woofer in, lets say 10TW3, 300 watts would be perfect for that bad boy and put out awesome sound. I want to say it would crap all over the B&O unit, if you ever got bored and wanted more sound.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-K3OOtpjEgmV/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html

 

[WarrenKeri]

edit. the lc2i's ive used, I always used in conjunction with another amp in piggy back form.

if you don't ever want more than 300 watts, id go that route, but. you can get an awesome 500watt amp, and lc2i for 300 bucks.

so both even, but I think the one unit would be easier to wire/deal with., less space

I would prefer a single unit & while I can't seem to confirm anywhere, it seems that 300 watts is more than I'll need for that factory B&O 10" Subwoofer anyway.

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