2018+ GT Starter Motor Confusion / SA-1067 vs SA-1087

[PaddyPrix]

Sharing this for those of you who may eventually find yourself in this situation, where you need to replace a starter.

The JR3Z-11002-A is the Motorcraft SA-1087, which has two holes in it.
The GR3Z-11002-A is Motorcraft SA-1067, which has three holes in it.

The Ecoboost starter motor is half the price and doesn't appear to fit. I'm guessing the two bolt is for the automatics? It's somewhat confusing from most of the Ford Part websites, and feels pretty crappy when you finally get the part in (Nat'l Backorder until July 1st) ... and it's the wrong one.

In this one, the SA-1087 is the top, SA-1067 is the bottom. The SA-1087 has 10 teeth, and the bottom hole doesn't lineup, the SA-1067 has 13 teeth and lines up perfectly, in my case anyhow.

Hope this helps someone.

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[Elp_jc]

Hey OP, thank you for the heads up. But may I ask you why you needed a new starter on a 2019??? And are the motors on those 2 you posted the same? Can't tell from the photo, but maybe the 2.3EB is smaller, since it's less than half the 5.0, and much lower compression. At any rate, I like how my Bullitt starter sounds for once. Ha ha. Very similar to my favorite: The high-speed Mitsubishis some V8 Chryslers used to have.

 

[PaddyPrix]

Hey OP, thank you for the heads up. But may I ask you why you needed a new starter on a 2019??? And are the motors on those 2 you posted the same? Can't tell from the photo, but maybe the 2.3EB is smaller, since it's less than half the 5.0, and much lower compression. At any rate, I like how my starter sound for once. Ha ha. Very similar to my favorite: The high-speed Mitsubishis some V8 Chryslers used to have.

I've got honestly no idea. I took the Stripper out on her maiden voyage and couldn't start it for my 3rd session. We started checking the fuses, and as we were trying to diagnose the noise when pressing the start button, we looked down and ...oh, hello there starter solenoid! You can't see it from this angle, but there are two studs that come out, and one of them snapped cleanly off somewhere, and the plastic housing has a bunch of big cracks through it. Perhaps it was just some terrible luck.
The motors themselves appear to be the same size and length, but the casing has a slightly different number (A1T 398 vs A1T 2S5), which I would believe relates to the number of flywheel/gear teeth it has. The starter solenoids look identical.

 

[Ecoboosted]

That bottom starter with the three holes teeth are torn up. I’m assuming that one was on the car? I’d check the fly wheel so there’s no chewed up teeth on it when you get the new starter.

 

[dn1984]

may be build date specific

 

[Cobra Jet]

I've got honestly no idea. I took the Stripper out on her maiden voyage and couldn't start it for my 3rd session. We started checking the fuses, and as we were trying to diagnose the noise when pressing the start button, we looked down and ...oh, hello there starter solenoid! You can't see it from this angle, but there are two studs that come out, and one of them snapped cleanly off somewhere, and the plastic housing has a bunch of big cracks through it. Perhaps it was just some terrible luck.
The motors themselves appear to be the same size and length, but the casing has a slightly different number (A1T 398 vs A1T 2S5), which I would believe relates to the number of flywheel/gear teeth it has. The starter solenoids look identical.

^^^ Good info for future reference.

Did you hit something really good on that side of the car because that passenger side control arm has some non-factory gouges on it. That could be why the assembly detached itself (merely a guess).

The difference in starters is likely due to:
1) Auto vs Manual trans bell housings
2) Auto Flexplate teeth count vs. Manual Flywheel teeth count. Can’t mount a starter up against a flex plate if it was designed to be mounted to a flywheel, etc.

Flywheel and flexplate teeth counts are different but another thing to know is a flywheel is usually much heavier than a flexplate, requiring the appropriate starter.

When you were ordering did you order by VIN # or just make/model/year? Sometimes the Ford parts sites will have a field to search by VIN which is sometimes more accurate when ordering parts.

 

[PaddyPrix]

True, might be, lots of things change first year or last year halfway, my 1998 Cobra was a return-style and had different exhaust hanger locations.
p['' /

That bottom starter with the three holes teeth are torn up. I’m assuming that one was on the car? I’d check the fly wheel so there’s no chewed up teeth on it when you get the new starter.

Good point, and I was curious just the same and spun it for a rotation or two and didn't see anything major, assuming it's normal wear and tear. You can see it in the picture of the mount that there's a little on the flywheel, but they still look to be well formed.

may be build date specific

^^^ Good info for future reference.

Did you hit something really good on that side of the car because that passenger side control arm has some non-factory gouges on it. That could be why the assembly detached itself (merely a guess).

The difference in starters is likely due to:
1) Auto vs Manual trans bell housings
2) Auto Flexplate teeth count vs. Manual Flywheel teeth count. Can’t mount a starter up against a flex plate if it was designed to be mounted to a flywheel, etc.

Flywheel and flexplate teeth counts are different but another thing to know is a flywheel is usually much heavier than a flexplate, requiring the appropriate starter.

When you were ordering did you order by VIN # or just make/model/year? Sometimes the Ford parts sites will have a field to search by VIN which is sometimes more accurate when ordering parts.

Those markings were likely from the end of its previous life, I've acquired it from a theft recovery auto auction. I did supply my VIN, and that's all I was treated to at the time. The SA-1067 / GR3Z-11002-A appears to be the starter that was previously used for the Gen 2 Coyote, so perhaps it could be a early-mid year starter/tranny mountplate change. I do have a 2019 GT as well, so I'll try to get under it later and see if the same is true. With the mounting plates being different, it should be easy to spot visually.

Anyhow, hoping this may be of some use/help to some, I caught a YouTube video of somebody who found out the hard way as well, and with the long delays and hard to availability issues that are currently underway, assuming that somebody is capable of removing their starter, that they can avoid the confusion that I got caught in. This is my race car, so I can get by without it not working for a few weeks, but others may not have that same situation.

 

[Elp_jc]

A related question: Do starters sound the same on auto and manual V8s? I really like how it sounds on my Bullitt. If they're the same motors, they should turn the crankshaft at the same (high) speed, even if the manual one has more teeth, no?

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