Cjenne25
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Tools I used to install. T10 bit, small standard screw driver, 1/4'' ratchet with extention and 7mm socket, magnet, side cutters, headlamp, zip-tie/electrical tape/twist tie. If you have a Dremmel or rotory grinder (not pictured) it will be usefull later on, however, it is not necessary.
I found working from the passenger seat moved all the way forward during the entire process to be the best.
This trim piece above the glove box will need to be removed along with the black side trim piece to the right of the glove box.
Open the glove box and remove the black piece first, then remove the trim bezel above the glove box. Refer to this CJPonyparts video [ame]
This is what it will look like once you have removed the trim piece. I broke two tabs off the back. It's easy to do and don't beat yourself up over it. You can purchase them from ford or do what I did and installed it back without them. I had no issues with the piece going back on tight. I tried everything I could not to break any but shit happens.
Now take your 1/4'' ratchet and 7mm socket and remove the top two bolts. Make sure to have some tupper ware bowls handy for the screws so that you don't loose them.
Now with your small standard screw driver, pry the piece between the start button and 12V. It will pop off from either side, right or left side of the piece. I also took out the rubber piece where we all toss extra change ect.. to expose the two bolts under it. You can take these out or leave them. I took mine out. This plastic piece is a pain in the ass to get out from it's position. It lays under your shifter/consol bezel. If you can get it out, it will help make things easier but it doesn't have to come out to get the radio bezel out.
Behind the plastic piece that reveals the two bottom 7mm bolts that you will remove.
Once the top two and bottom two 7mm bolts are removed, you can start taking out the radio. It is in there tight, I was able to use my small standard screw driver and started on the passenger side to pry out. I didn't pry hard, I used my fingers as much as possible. I worked from passenger side then from the top. The radio has the same retainers as the trim piece above the glove box. There are a total of 4, top right, middle right, top left and middle left that hold the radio in. I had no issues breaking any retainers. Just take your time with everything. The bottom will be held in place by a tab on each side at the bottom.
At this point you can unplug what connections you can get your hands on.
After some playing around for a bit, I was able to get that plastic piece at the bottom where that rubber piece is where we put our change at. I used my small standard screw driver to pry and at the same time pulled back the console. On the bottom sides you will see two bolts in this picture. Those stay, however, those pain in the ASS tabs are right above those bolts. Those tabs will be the hardest part of getting the radio out and putting it back in. You could cut those tabs with cutters of some sort or do what I did and fought them. I pryed the console with a bigger standard and my smaller standard to get where those tabs cleared so I could get the bezel out. Check out the next picture for connector location.
You will have to unplug all three connectors, 12V and start button.
No take out the stock LCD screen and unplug the connector. Go ahead and take out the black Sync box that was behind the screen. This will make things easier for when you take out the CD player to plug the new harness later.
A side by side view. Find a work place to perform the task of changing out buttons and circuit board.
Using your torx10 take out all the small silver screws holding the cover and circuit board on to the stock radio bezel. This is where you will want to have a tupper ware bowl to put screws in. There are short and long screws, keep them seperated because you will reuse some of each later on.
Pay attention to how the buttons are overlapped where the screws were holding them together.
This is where you grind down the tab above the "OK" button. I used a cheap rotory tool I purchased at a hardware store (Harbor Freight). You grind this piece down so that it will fit into the Tomtop radio bezel. Dont worry it gets screwed down so this tab wont effect anything.
This cover that was covering the circuit board will need to be trimmed because of the new screen. If you have some metal snips or side cutters/Dykes those work also.
The sides will get cut/snipped at an angle.
Place the original circuit board on the Tomtop radio bezel. Make sure you have the buttons that will be used installed in the new radio bezel. This is where your common sense should have kicked in already. I hope you paid attention to how the overlay of the buttons were when you took them out and installed them into this bezel. If done right they pretty much hold each other together.
You will install three (3) of those shorter screws to hold the circuit board to the bezel. Those screws go on the sides and one in the middle as you can see above. The other screws that secure the cover take care of the rest.
If you cut the cover correctly where the new screen is located, the cover will go on all the way and you can screw the cover to the circuit board. Dont over tighten the screws, snug is good.
Now it's time to take out the 12V/cigarette lighter. See that small sqaure cutout? Take you small standard screwdriver and release the pieces that retain in those small cutouts. The 12V has two parts to the removal process.
This is the second part. There are two (2) tabs that retain this piece to the old/stock radio bezel. One is on the bottome part of the bezel and the other is on the top side. Push these in and slightly pull to get this piece out.
Picture of what I had left over. Some short and some long screws.
Take the CD player and the black Sync box out if you haven't done so yet. Then go ahead and you can hook up your new harness. The connector that was connected to the CD player is retained by a pain in the ass retainer piece. Take a screwdriver and release that piece and the wiring so you have slack to play with. I didn't take a picture but you will figure it out. In this picture I already connected my harness and put back the CD player. I ran my USB from Tomtop down the passenger side and into my glove box. I also zip tied my loose wires from Tomtop and pushed everything back into the "void" under the Sync box. Now go back through the process of getting those two pain in the ass tabs at the bottom of the radio bezel back in place by using, "The Force" so you can install the connectors, 12V, start button ect... Hook all connectors up correctly and make sure they are pushed all the way in. As soon as you connect the white connector to the Tomtop screen, the radio will power on. Please do this before snapping the entire radio back into the car. If everything has been done correctly and the radio powers on then continue.......
At this point in the process, hook up the GPS antenna to the back/top of the Tomtop radio. Run the wire along the space above the glove box to the passenger pillar.
This is the area where the black bezel piece to the right of the glove box is. Continue to run the GPS wire here. Sorry some of the pictures were not right side up.
Run that wire up along the pillar and in the weather strip for the door. The wire will push right in it and run up the pillar for a clean look. Once you reach the headliner, run the wire in the headliner along the windshield. The wire will again push right in without any tools. Run it all the way to the mirror.
This is where it should come out. Pull off the 3M backing and place it wherever.
I hope this helps someone installing this unit. The entire process took me right at 3 hours to complete. I took my time and did not rush with anything. I have access to almost any tool, the tools I listed above are the tools I used to complete this task.
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