2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[TheLion]

Ok, so I messaged FP reps and here's the low down for anyone that NLS stutter has been bugging me for months now (if you don't already know): NLS engages with 80% or more throttle, above 5000 RPM AND when you depress the clutch. I've been thinking all along that it was based on throttle and I've been lifting my pedal foot while leaving my clutch foot on the pedal. I must be pre-loading it just enough. So just slightly lift your pedal foot and make it a habbit and you should be good to go. Also, in rare cases your pedal sensor plunger may need to be slightly adjusted. Many of them have "ratchet" teeth and if you push them down past their stopping point it will set the plunger travel lower. Assuming it doesn't affect the fully depressed state, you could "ratchet" the sensor fully extended position to allow you to slightly pre-load the clutch without engaging NLS which I personally am not interested in as I'm not into drag.

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[re-rx7]

I have 20k miles on my PP2 and the car is still running great. I can tell a difference in between certain gas stations (93) which lets men know the ECU is doing its thing.

 

[TheLion]

Oil catch can from JLT solved the issue I had of power fade during extended hard use on hot days. There's a little over a table spoon of oil in the can after a few hundred miles (plenty of hot roding around). I got some aluminum disks to make a custom baffle for the JLT catch can as it doesn't have a slosh baffle, but the oil filtering seems to work very well without restricting flow too much or accumulating larges amounts of moisture unnecessarily like the UPR catch can did on my Ecoboost. I'm not a fan of UPR's design after using the JLT. The UPR setup also had a horrid oil/fuel odor I couldn't get rid of even with taping the quick disconnect fittings for a better seal which multiple people experienced. Simple is somethings better and certainly more reliable, it just needs a slosh baffle for spirited driving to prevent oil from riding up the sides of the can once it gets fairly full.

Also at the next oil change in 300 miles I'll give Mobil 1's new Advanced Synthetic 5W-20 a try as it's Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified with better thermal oxidative properties than MC 5W-20 semi-syn which I'm currently running. While MC is ALWAYS a safe bet and still a reasonably good performing oil, there are better oils on the market for a similar price, especially when it comes to thermal oxidation (aka NOACK boil off rates) which are MC's weak spot.

 

[TheLion]

I have 20k miles on my PP2 and the car is still running great. I can tell a difference in between certain gas stations (93) which lets men know the ECU is doing its thing.

Good to know. I'm now at 2700 miles since PP2 (at nearly 20k total) without any issues. The car has really come to life with Power Pack 2 and I no longer find myself wishing for more power. Would I complain if I had the 670 HP super charger kit from a power standpoint? No, but he power delivery, available power and it's accessibility is VERY good with Power Pack 2 and something US muscle cars and even most import performance cars could only dream of just 10 years ago from NA engines unless you went into exotics.

And as I've always said, reliability trumps all with drive ability second and power third. If it isn't reliable 100% of the time it's garbage and if drive ability is crap it's half garbage and that's where quite a few of the after market ECU calibrations fall short. I just wouldn't trust them on a $10k engine that's under full warranty on a car I partially depend on for transportation as well as fun for maybe 10 hp more at best...if I had bought an SS or RT Scat Pack from Chevy or Dodge instead of the Mustang I would never have tuned the engine and stuck to a few bolt on's as they have no factory "hot cals" available from either manufacturer.

But the GT was cheaper than either even with modifications and is as light as the SS but with better interior / trunk space than the SS, equally as good of looks (I actually like the newest Alpha based SS's asthetics) if not better over all appearance. To me it was a better balance rather than an extreme of one or the other (practicality for the Dodge and track performance for the SS).

But I still think Ford should have offered more in the standard performance package. If they added just the Power Pack 2, an IRS cradle lock out or at least solid rubber IRS bushings, stiffer diff bushings, the standard PP GT would have been miles ahead in performance from where it was at with minimal impact to NVH. Those that buy a PP GT are typically willing to tolerate a little more NVH and slightly harsher ride for the added performance. But I digress, at least those modifications are pretty cheap even adding them after the fact.

It also appears that the Coyote is particularly sensitive to oil inhalation as I've seen even review magazines report power fade during their limited track sessions and testing. No stock car will come with an oil catch can, but I think an oil separator, even will not as good as a catch can, would have reduced oil vapor consumption enough to keep it from pulling timing when things heat up. That's certainly going to be a contributing factor as to why the GT's 1/4 times can be some what inconsistent stock.

 

[re-rx7]

That will be my next modification. The oil catch can. I like the mishimoto but IAm still undecided at the moment.

 

[arfabe16]

What Air/Fuel Ratios do 5.0 owners with the FP PP2 typically see?

My digital gauge usually shows AFR somewhere between 13.9 and 14.4 at idle and cruising at low rpms, which seems a little bit rich.

The rest of my mods are in my signature, in case that matters... thanks!

 

[GritzNGravy]

Isn't the stoichiometry of gas with 10% ethanol 14.2:1? I have pp3. My AFR is exact same as yours. Pretty sure its normal. You can use the pp2 procal software to data log, and look at lambda. Its called Eq Ratio in the procal software. While cruising it should be close to 1.0.

 

[arfabe16]

How do I data log with the ProCal tool?

This is the first car I’ve modded so I’m a n00b when it comes to these things...

 

[GritzNGravy]

I bought a usb cable like 9ft off amazon cause that little cable they give you to plug into the dlc to your computer makes data logging dangerous while driving. Anyway you open the software on your comp while its plugged into your car. Click the Program tab. Then select open file. Then open PCM_Recorder.pc3 file. Then click the Recorder tab. On the left side will be a area with Action and PCM next to each other. The action menu allows your to start recoding and pause and stuff. PCM menu allows you to select the data PIDS you wanna record.

 

[arfabe16]

So, I could just plug in the ProCal tool, fire up the software while on my driveway, set it to record, go for a drive, and then stop recording when I get back home? Seems easy enough... thanks!

 

[GritzNGravy]

Yep, As long as you have the procal software on your computer. Ive heard of some dealers using the voucher # on their accounts so pretty much you don't get the software and your sol.

 

[arfabe16]

Yep, As long as you have the procal software on your computer. Ive heard of some dealers using the voucher # on their accounts so pretty much you don't get the software and your sol.

I had my dealer use my computer, so we're all good! Would there be any benefit to having someone in the car with me (w/ the computer on their lap) monitoring as I drive, or would they see pretty much exactly what I'd see if I just looked at the entire log AFTER my drive?

 

[TheLion]

I didn't know you could data log with Pro-cal...as of 2 years ago when I did my Ecoboost, the version of pro-cal out then didn't have that feature (unless it was omitted for the lower end model Ecoboost, which is a common thing to do or NOBODY on the EB forum knew about it).

Another cheap option for data logging if your interested is OBDII Link-MX. Runs about $50~$75 and works well with the Torque Pro application on your phone or tablet you can buy for $5 if you don't have a lap top (or one with a properly functioning battery).

You can data log with that, but I'd imagine the quality of data is probably better with the Pro-Cal tool where you have to do some figuring and algebra with a few PID's in Torque as their free PID lists aren't as comprehensive. Some things work and others require some fixin'. I'll have to give the Pro-Cal data logging a try one time out of sheer curiosity :-)

 

[Amacron]

Just installed the PP2 in my 2015 GT. I haven't seen this posted b4 may have missed it. When I flashed my car with the Tune it went through its regular thing and at the very end I received an red message.

***Power off module ***

cant remember the exact words
Sat there for a long while searching the internet but never found anything. Ford Performance was closed because I decided to install it at 5:30..which turned into 12am when I started to flash. So I sat there a while to see if it did anything else. Nothing notta. was waiting for the Programming complete note.

Finally decided with great anxiety to turn the power off the car. I turned off the car then the program said to Power on the module and then it did a couple of other things very fast then I received the coveted Programming Complete message.

After the programming the check engine light was on. The code it threw was the crankshaft position not learned as was discussed in the beginning of this thread.

 

[GritzNGravy]

I had my dealer use my computer, so we're all good! Would there be any benefit to having someone in the car with me (w/ the computer on their lap) monitoring as I drive, or would they see pretty much exactly what I'd see if I just looked at the entire log AFTER my drive?

No point in having someone watch the data for you. Once you hit the record data button all that data is saved in a log so once your done driving you can see all the info you just logged. Its exactly how you would see it live.

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