2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[stevnoof]

I had it installed by a stealership. I know they drove it a bit so I'm guessing they did the crank relearn and everything else. I have the hardware but I'm not sure if I can use it on my computer since they did everything on their computer. But I had no cel or anything I think it did take a few miles to settle in, could just be my imagination but I didn't notice much of a difference until a few hours later. Feels more responsive and better torque now. The track will be the real test next week weather permitting.

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[mikeyjobu]

I had it installed by a stealership. I know they drove it a bit so I'm guessing they did the crank relearn and everything else. I have the hardware but I'm not sure if I can use it on my computer since they did everything on their computer. But I had no cel or anything I think it did take a few miles to settle in, could just be my imagination but I didn't notice much of a difference until a few hours later. Feels more responsive and better torque now. The track will be the real test next week weather permitting.

The CEL comes on as part of the crank relearn process - the codes indicate that it's time for that to happen - it's a very specific code, and only pertains to times when retuning. If the dealership did it right, you would not have seen it - but it still happened.

 

[keiths2kgt]

I had it installed by a stealership. I know they drove it a bit so I'm guessing they did the crank relearn and everything else. I have the hardware but I'm not sure if I can use it on my computer since they did everything on their computer. But I had no cel or anything I think it did take a few miles to settle in, could just be my imagination but I didn't notice much of a difference until a few hours later. Feels more responsive and better torque now. The track will be the real test next week weather permitting.

So you got the pp3 installed I see. Once you drive a few hundred miles I would like to hear your feedback. :cheers:

 

[Erock503]

I realize this is a late response -- but here's my take: It really depends on what your plans are for your car. On this forum, PP1 isn't a popular choice, and I totally get why.

But in my opinion, PP1 is a perfect match for a manual car, and yes, the difference is very real, and very noticeable -- It's like getting a new car all over again. I don't think anyone has experienced any problem with rev hang on PP1 -- but I think both tunes (or all 3?) got a revision?

I'm not sure I'm done modifying -- in some way, PP1 is an experiment to see how far I have to keep going:

The centrifugal blowers I'm considering down the line reuse the stock manifold, throttle body, and air box. I don't want to pull any of that off, and then pull it out of storage I don't want to use to put it back on.

I won't do a blower until three things happen:

1) I've put additional funds into my daughters college fund that equal the cost of a blower, plus all of the durability upgrades that are needed: oil pump gear, crank gear, half shafts, more tire/wheel, etc.

2) I've taken my lady someplace nice for vacation.

3) I have money saved for everything I need to get the blower on right with all the supporting durability upgrades without doing dumb stuff to my finances.

For me, PP1 will likely keep me satisfied for several years while I plot for TOTAL DOMINATION! Or not. :headbonk:

I don't disagree with people praising PP2 -- it has everything PP1 has, and a bit more power, and looks way cooler under the hood. But PP1 is about 90% of what PP2 is, and I don't think I'm missing the small delta in peak hp claimed by Ford.

Definitely food for thought, thanks man. I'm waiting for the motor to break in before deciding, but both options sound really appealing. I kind of like the idea of the stock air box too, as it's my daily. Not sure I want to worry about water hitting an open paper filter while it's parked at work. Then again, those extra parts for just a couple hundred more seem like a lot of bang for the buck. First world problems, lol. :headbonk:

 

[mikes2017gt]

I had the same exact concerns about the open filter with the PP2. I can tell you (and others told me) it's a complete non-issue. I've driven in the rain, through a car wash and washed the car by hand with a garden hose. Filter is bone dry.

I never had the PP1; went straight from stock to PP2. I can tell you that the PP2 really seems to hit the nail on the head. The combination of the GT350 throttle body, airbox and the tune makes the car beastly. I can't keep my foot out of it. Between the intake roar, exhaust bellow (I have a catback system) and the almost-scary acceleration, it's addictive.

 

[stevnoof]

So you got the pp3 installed I see. Once you drive a few hundred miles I would like to hear your feedback. :cheers:

I will definitely post about it more after I go to the track. So far I noticed a definite increase in power at low rpm starting around 2k. The 2-3k rpm range I usually am in while going through the gears getting up to speed feels great.

The throttle is more responsive which may get annoying but I'll see how I adapt to it. The unknown exhaust on the car (I bought the car used, it has an x pipe and unknown mufflers) has a few different tones depending on how much your getting into it and I would say now it makes the more aggressive tone at like 25% throttle that it used to make at like 50% throttle. Lot more pops and cracks during shifts as well.

I did a semi cold start tonight and I did notice rev hang the first time I went through second and third gear. The rpm actually jumped up in between shift a few hundred rpm and them hung for a second or so. On my tuned ecostang it had bad rev hang while cold but the rpm didn't jump up they just held for three seconds until it reached operating temps, so I'm pretty much used to that hopefully it goes away but I can live with it.

I did two pulls right after I got it but like I said it didn't feel like the tune had adjusted right away. One third to fourth without flatfoot shifting and another using flatfoot. It did feel good on both pulls very smooth and linear, no lock out, I shifted around 7500 but did not hit the limiter.

The car put out a 13.0 and 13.1 at 107 last week i'm hoping for low 12 maybe around 115. I would be happy with that for now.

 

[catchthecarp]

Keep the info coming, the feedback on these is very encouraging. Strongly leaning PP2 as my next mod.

 

[FirstGT]

It's interesting to read your impressions. With a manual and PP1 the difference was barely noticable after I got used to it. I even forgot I switched tunes back to stock on one occassion. On the street and the track, the requiement to NLS above 5k was annoying and ultimately impeded the control and feel I wanted. When I switched to a real tune, the car was totally different.

For the money, PP2 offers more hardware that can later be used with an enhanced tune. IMO, our of all of the packages, that's the way to go. PP1 was a waste of money.

Wow I guess I missed that part. So with PP2 you HAVE to NLS above 5k whether you want to or not?

 

[NothernVAMustang]

What is nls

 

[mikeyjobu]

Keep the info coming, the feedback on these is very encouraging. Strongly leaning PP2 as my next mod.

While I disagree that PP1 is a waste, I'll say this: If I already had the exhaust setup, was certain I wanted to stay naturally aspirated, and wasn't looking for some other mods, I would probably go with PP2. I was all set to go with PP3, and decided it was more involved than I wanted to get right now, others were vocal about issues with PP2, plus my mechanic started talking me up some about forced induction -- he'd worked on someone's 8-second New Edge Terminator at some point. I wanted some new wheels, and some kind of tune this summer. Between my wheels and driveshaft, I've already dropped a solid 30 pounds of rotational mass out of the driveline, which translates into less drivetrain loss, and more wheel horsepower. I also have an FRPP x-pipe that I'm still on the fence about installing, which will probably also net me a small horsepower gain, while losing some weight as well. In the end it's about power loading, and tire grip -- not only horsepower gains. I purchased my wheels (47 pound total loss, over 20 of that on the rear wheels) and the pack at the same time, and at a time when there was still concern that PP2 was not going to get a revised tune, and wasn't available anyway. Being as how I know I can still toss on my x-pipe, and improve my power loading some anyway, I went with wheels and PP1 for this summer. If I need more, I've got to get blown...;)

 

[racingandfishing]

What is nls

I believe it is No Lift Shifting

 

[mikeyjobu]

Wow I guess I missed that part. So with PP2 you HAVE to NLS above 5k whether you want to or not?

I think it may force it only with traction control turned off? Clearly I've not done enough testing. Also, I think you might have to be at a specific high-percentage-of-throttle-to-full-throttle as well. I find myself pedaling through 1st and 2nd to help maintain grip - you really don't need a heavy foot to hit the rev limit...

 

[ChitownStang]

One of the main reasons I got rid of pp1 was no lift shift was the most annoying feature ever and I could not turn it off.
It would constantly engage on me, could of been due to lighter clutch spring but hated it!

 

[mikeyjobu]

One of the main reasons I got rid of pp1 was no lift shift was the most annoying feature ever and I could not turn it off.
It would constantly engage on me, could of been due to lighter clutch spring but hated it!

Don't all the FRPP Power Packs have no-lift-shift?

 

[stevnoof]

Yes they do. I had no problem shifting at 7500 normal shifting as well as no lift shifting. Also I have the steeds clutch spring

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