18+ bone stock dynos with each FI flavor

[engineermike]

Looks like an instant torque monster.

This is what I attempted to warn you about earlier. The Edelbrock stage 2 spins the supercharger really fast and makes a lot of boost. Some people buy the stage 2 then put a bigger blower pulley to slow it down and get the boost down to a reasonable level, and the torque comes down with it. Be careful.

Must be hard to hook up on the street if you stab it?

Pretty much any forced induction coyote will get no traction at legal speeds on a street tire. Mine won’t hook the ps4s tires in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear. 4th is iffy but will usually hook as long as it’s hot outside.

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[99Formula]

Here’s a graph of my recently completed manual 2019 GT with the Hellion Street Sleeper kit. The car has the 62mm Precision BB turbos, Hellion headers, and boost actuated cutouts. The rest of the exhaust consists of a Ford Racing resonator delete and the stock axle-back. It’s a pump gas (93 oct) car with just IDX-1050’s and a boost-a-pump. This pull was at just under 9psi. The car was put together by FlimFlam Speed in Richmond, VA and tuned by Lund. The car has a 100% factory long block with the project completed at right around 1,100 miles on the clock. There will be a build thread once I have enough time to put all my thoughts together. Long story short, it drives around 100% like stock until you put your foot into it.

 

[Jmtoast]

most setups will make similar power on a custom tune, as your limiting factor is fuel, we usually tune most catted setups around 670ish, with headers 700ish.. e85 775-800

really comes down to budget / goals, etc..

feel free to hit me with any questions or goals and I can help guide you.



Terry "Beefcake" Reeves
Office - 855-TBR-RACE - Cell 513-478-1965
Owner Team Beefcake - 20+ Years Experience
Deal Directly with the boss, no pushy sales guys!!!!!!!
https://www.beefcakeracing.com - Your Forced Induction Specialists

Terry what what kind of dyno numbers are you seeing on the Roush Phase 2's canned tune (18+)?

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

This is what I attempted to warn you about earlier. The Edelbrock stage 2 spins the supercharger really fast and makes a lot of boost. Some people buy the stage 2 then put a bigger blower pulley to slow it down and get the boost down to a reasonable level, and the torque comes down with it. Be careful.



Pretty much any forced induction coyote will get no traction at legal speeds on a street tire. Mine won’t hook the ps4s tires in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear. 4th is iffy but will usually hook as long as it’s hot outside.

Hey engineeringmike!
On mine I don't feel like the torque went down from stage 1 to 2 even with the slower pulley, because the larger 103mm( vs 80) and 113mm MAF with competition airbox has much less restriction so the torque seems to still be there....

So I could blow the tires off at 80mph on the hit if I wanted ( p305 nittos) but I did just run 10.80s at 137.4 mph at 4350lbs ( I'm a fat bastard) 0-60 3.6 on virgin street with MT SS ( not Rs it would have gripped even better with Rs) on 27psi ( again would have been better lowrr but road was sketchy wanted control on big end). Nothing special no airing down or monster burn out with trackbite then back up in it. Just old dusty country road stop half second clean off of the tire and let her go on virgin junk county road ( yes my booty was tight at 143). That was bypass pill IN the blower....I think it's impossible to hook these toruqe monsters without the pill...i don't have a lot of suspension mods but the drag oriented alignment made a world of difference....and I got caught in bad rain with SS multiple times, I've been buying them for this and my other car since literally the month they come out.

I feel posters pain, though I'm finally getting the performance I wanted 10.80s at 137 at 4350lbs on virgin street from a dig and a 1.97 60ft we all know what that is flirting with at the track on 93..

I can't help but wonder if a d1x turned all the way down would match the output of the gen 3 coyote better, in my experience with them and their big brother the F1A-94 they would drop boost on shift ( less with A10 splits which had intrigued me) being where each of my engines blew.
The TVS would make the power flat with a slight peak up top ( i now know this is normal based on VMP), BUT at the bottom of 3rd all that air it was making at 7300ish ( that's where my stage 1 and 2 edelbrock shifted IF I had traction predictive shift is hard for them to nail down for all cars, tires weights, and mods) wasn't needed at 4900rpm on the recovery absolute load would spike to over 2.10 and then it pulled timing for a brief second ( stock pulley) match made in hell....rattle like an UZI, only takes once with the stock pistons. As patriot ( though mine made more on the good 93 we have it averaged 2 degrees more timing than their 91 tune) I moved back to 3.75 and have no more problems car flies. If a car can get near 9s on 93 with my lard ass in it car full weight its doing good in my book.....

All I been thru it would depend on priorities. I cant see how if racing is a priority, you can be faster than turbos. Edelbrock handled my failures and I think they are real close to shipping with 3.75 pulleys which solved my issues...its deadly silent ( which I like) im grey haired aging fat man and love the look on kids face when they gear down on me....BUT while they treated me good if I wasnt worried about winning races and I'm not anymore....Id have to take a serious look at the Roush Phase 2....

The Roush Phase 2 is cheap and calling around recebtly about them is WAY different than when I bought my car( 19 in 18, A10 3.15 gear 400a) a lot of dealers will buy and install it now and even finance it in on the 0% deals ( not sure if this is corona related but made me furious cause I made these calls almost 2 years ago and ONE dealership in my state was cooperative over 2hrs away). I probably if I could go back in time and wanted warranty do it because I became the mediator between Ford, Edelbrock and the original ASE installer....then Ford, the service office, tech and Edelbrock it literally honestly took years off my life......Id run it till I was fairly sure the car was healthy and gonna take it then add a killer chiller after say 1st year....beat on it a season....then add one of those and be golden with Lund tune......no telling its same rotor pack where octane is a limiter due to heat the killer chiller removes that to a degree....

If you want to see one of the more impressive stock setups Coyote Car guy ( though his whipple blew his and his friends also at the time whipple stage 1 kits, engine just like the Edelbrock did mine secondary ring lands ( they just won't hold boost well with stock exhaust and 93 , e85 seems to not have issues), he is a seasoned gentleman that once his engine was reinstalled went to a killer chiller living in Florida and picked up 50whp has had no problems since....( well diff now) stock exhaust and tune i think it run mid to high 10s on a tire with the chiller...he is stage 2 now still with the upgraded chiller and knocking on 9s as well....

I'll either do an ice tank or killer chiller myself as 12 to 1 and 93 just don't play well....i thought about it like you except forced via failure and considered a centri would match how Ford designed the car....however with the exception of the Roush Phase 2 ( which they didn't have at the time ) 750hp/610ftlbs with super HD H/E id probably God help me go with Edelbrock again....its just so nasty and silent you can't even hear it in my videos....its running fast as i want turning as slow as it literally can....all the power in the world is available if you wanted to go MS109,E85 or Forged piston.

If it continues to hold ( crosses my fingers ) ill take my core and built it forged and probably split the difference back to a 3.625 and stop at 750whp ish....this fall...
One footnote is I happen to know it cost thru Ford turn key $10,005 for a long block replacement all labor and parts with blower on it already....the Roush warranty only allows $7500 max on engine and that wouldn't be enough ( if they didn't do right) Edelbrock did it twice....no money out of pocket....would Ford even match it once? They don't have to BUT know what id love buying the car in the same place the blower was put on dealing with the same people that did if it blows...NO finger pointing that would have been SO awesome 3k out my pocket not so much....I had much more hassle and literal fighting in fact I'm banned from the local Ford have to drive to get parts ( my life is short I don't take well to being called a liar or lied to; just won't tolerate it on what little time I have left).

I don't envy you, I did the same thing tried to weigh all the variables my "gut" still tells me a peaky centri augments how the car was designed especially with the availability of stalls to get moving ( again wasnt floating around when I bought mine) but my big ass has no problems with the Edelbrock Stage 2, and the car is probably happy to have the help hauling me around LOL

 

[Stymee]

Terry what what kind of dyno numbers are you seeing on the Roush Phase 2's canned tune (18+)?

Roush P2
6sp cars are making 640-660rw
A10 cars are making 620-630rw

The canned tune drives excellent

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Roush P2
6sp cars are making 640-660rw
A10 cars are making 620-630rw

The canned tune drives excellent

You got yours in!!!!! Thats plenty for 98% of us....i ALMOST had a zero % trade in worked out them doing the blower on top.....was even gonna swap exhaust....630wheel with 2650tvs torque an A10 ( now that I know id probably do 3.55s vs my 3.15s on that setup because of MY weight )...
Get this man even my local dealership local 8 miles from me will no do the Roush truck or car....lol SOMETHING has changed.....

I got a decision to make, do a trade in letting 0% eat some of my losses ( upping to digital dash and magnaride for true daily duty) or buy some axles...im having to hold back due to axles....

 

[Stymee]

Yea I think the 3.55 wouldn’t hurt me either, I wish I had them, it’s drives absolutely perfect on the Roush tune

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Yea I think the 3.55 wouldn’t hurt me either, I wish I had them, it’s drives absolutely perfect on the Roush tune

You BUTT do you have a build thread or anything!!!!
How's the IATs feel free to PM if not cause I really am still working with a dealer....

 

[Stymee]

The car runs while cruising 108-119 IAT2

Outside temps don’t seem to make a big deal, it’s pretty linear (50-70) ambients

No doubt there’s better intercooler/HE setups, Whipple and EB but I gotta tell u this P2 is pretty good

The only issue I’d fix, bump rev limiter up 300rpm, sometimes it seems the tune hits the rev limiter and cuts fuel/spark

Other then that it’s dead nuts perfect
Pulls hard

 

[Jmtoast]

Roush P2
6sp cars are making 640-660rw
A10 cars are making 620-630rw

The canned tune drives excellent

where are you getting that? Almost every phase 1 dyno I've seen showed those numbers for the A10

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

The car runs while cruising 108-119 IAT2

Outside temps don’t seem to make a big deal, it’s pretty linear (50-70) ambients

No doubt there’s better intercooler/HE setups, Whipple and EB but I gotta tell u this P2 is pretty good

The only issue I’d fix, bump rev limiter up 300rpm, sometimes it seems the tune hits the rev limiter and cuts fuel/spark

Other then that it’s dead nuts perfect
Pulls hard

OK mine runs fully heat soaked say you got in city ( im splitting this out because if you just get in your car and drive say hwy it take a LONG time to reach this) and then went on why 55-75mph it will do 25-30 over ambient and here is what's weird....it may do 25 over 50 ambient but it had a base, like I'm gonna run no colder than this ( usually 85) regardless of outside air...however it stays scaled and here is the weird part the hotter it gets ambient often the LESS split....
But I started a full 1/4 pass after driving 23 miles to spot ( i can link you video ) it ran [email protected]/107mph in 1/8th....IAT started at 95 ended at 113 then it cool back to 95 within 3 mins...
But it's just so funny if you never let it heat soak it will stick to 10 over but if you get the engine hot and turn it off and let it soak for 10 minutes, it will start up high of coarse then never recover back to that 10 over it stays around 20-25 over....rest of day.....

On the RPM that happened to me and resetting the KAM and trans reset the adaptive and predictive shifts and it will learn it needs to command quicker shifts to stay off limiter...to my knowledge Stage 1 didn't adjust the shift scheduling at all...but the Ford place done that for me ( trans reset) and within id say 4 or 5 WOTs it never did it again....

Man I know your happy ONE place to take it too and also the Ford dealership doesn't act like it's a vampire when they open the hood they see it as their stuff...not a second thought given.....

 

[jwaked]

Here’s a graph of my recently completed manual 2019 GT with the Hellion Street Sleeper kit. The car has the 62mm Precision BB turbos, Hellion headers, and boost actuated cutouts. The rest of the exhaust consists of a Ford Racing resonator delete and the stock axle-back. It’s a pump gas (93 oct) car with just IDX-1050’s and a boost-a-pump. This pull was at just under 9psi. The car was put together by FlimFlam Speed in Richmond, VA and tuned by Lund. The car has a 100% factory long block with the project completed at right around 1,100 miles on the clock. There will be a build thread once I have enough time to put all my thoughts together. Long story short, it drives around 100% like stock until you put your foot into it.

Very nice numbers, how much was the setup?

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Very nice numbers, how much was the setup?

Agree what's it run too, build thread please with 1/4 mile!!!

 

[99Formula]

Very nice numbers, how much was the setup?

It’s not cheap, but it’s quality and fits my needs perfectly. You can get a pretty good idea by playing with the options on Hellion’s site. Just the turbo kit and injectors/BAP/boost controller we’re somewhere in the $12k range.... I’m pretty handy with a wrench, but stay busy running the sales side of a CJDR Dealership, so I also opted to have someone install it, which obviously added to the cost. At the end of the day I’m glad I went this way. I turned it over to a guy I’ve known for years who really massaged the kit, added some cool stuff, and made it perfect (he’s just as picky as I am about things being just right). Lund tuned the car and did a great job. My guy would normally have been my choice to tune the car due to our history and his proximity, but he’s not 100% happy with the way his software of choice supports the 18+ cars and they keep giving him the run around.

I also went ahead and beefed up the driveline. RXT/aluminum driveshaft/Ford Racing half-shafts. Are all on the car now.

Long story short, just the turbo kit and install to mimic this could probably be done around $14-15k if you do it yourself and have It tuned remotely. I’m in it more than that because of lots of other stuff I added to the car because of my OCD.

Agree what's it run too, build thread please with 1/4 mile!!!

I’ll find out when our tracks in VA open up (I’ve had the car back less than a week). I’ll post some more pics and walk through the build sometime over the weekend in a separate thread. I’m still kind of getting over how happy I am to have it back to be honest with you. For now this will have to do.

 

[Phils15GT]

I did sleeper kit, upgraded JB 62 precision turbos, ID1050x injectors, PBD tuned all for under 9k. You could do it even cheaper if you don't upgrade turbos. This would be you installing yourself.

My 19 A10 went 10.3 @ 140 on the 7lb wastegate spring and E85.

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